Not all Abelie species are sufficiently frost hardy for Central European climates. In regions with mild winters, such as the Rhine Valley or the coastal regions, cultivation in the garden is usually also possible. Otherwise, the Abelia is also very good as a container plant on the terrace, as a planting underneath in individual pots, for background planting, as natural hedge planting or for year-round cultivation in the unheated conservatory.


The Abelia grandiflora grows to a height of between 1.50 m and 2.00 m, and even up to 2.50 m in sheltered locations. Due to its rounded shape, the width growth is similar. The numerous fragrant, funnel-shaped, white or mauve flowers appear in early summer, depending on the species, between June and October.

outdoor planting

Abelia grandiflora can be planted at any time, both outdoors and in a container, but preferably between October and May, on frost-free and dry days. To do this, the plant is first placed in a bucket of water so that the roots can soak up the water.

An appropriately large planting hole can now be dug for planting in the garden. This should be twice as deep and wide as the root ball of the plant in question.

If possible, the excavated soil should then be mixed with humus soil and some compost. Then the Abelia grandiflora is placed as deep in the planting hole as it was in the pot before and filled with excavated earth. The planting distance to other plants should be about 1.50 m to 1.80 m. Finally, the whole thing is thoroughly watered.

Planting in the bucket

When planting in a tub, you should pay particular attention to the minimum size of the respective planter. This should be at least 60 cm both in height and width. First of all, a drainage layer, for example made of gravel, comes into the bucket to avoid waterlogging. Then come alternating potting soil and hummus. After inserting the Abelia, it is filled with substrate up to about 2 cm below the edge of the bucket and watered thoroughly.

location and soil

  • The Abelia grandiflora prefers warm, sunny and sheltered locations.
  • However, it also does well in semi-shade.
  • In locations that are too shady, it would wither relatively quickly.
  • The soil should be as permeable, nutrient-rich and humus as possible.
  • In addition to nutrient-rich, humus-rich soils, sandy and stony soils are also suitable.
  • Provided they are permeable and moist.
  • The Abelia does not like oxygen-poor soils at all.
  • There is a medium tolerance to calcareous and occasionally dry soils.
  • Saline soils are only minimally tolerated.
  • Soils with a high peat content and loamy soils are unsuitable.

watering and fertilizing

You should water regularly during the growth phase, from April to October. Alternatively, you can also water the plants with 1-2 buckets of water about every 2-3 weeks when the soil has dried well. Potted plants in particular should be watered regularly.

During the summer you should fertilize about every 14 days, for example with a complete fertilizer for flowering shrubs. This is available in the form of sticks as well as liquid fertilizer. The respective fertilizer should not have too high a nitrogen content. Although this would lead to stronger growth, it would prevent bud formation. If necessary, the dosage of a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content can also be reduced.

As a rule, however, it is also sufficient to administer compost or a commercially available organic or mineral fertilizer in March/April and June/July. You can provide potted plants with a liquid complete fertilizer or an organic fertilizer about every two weeks from March to September.


Abelia grandiflora is a shrub that grows relatively densely and branches out naturally. Accordingly, a vigorous pruning is not required, but rather a topiary. The best time to do this is in the spring before the plant sprout again. Dead shoots can be removed and the bush thinned out or cut into shape.

In summer, minor cosmetic corrections can be made to the plant if necessary. Older plants can also be pruned back a little more if necessary, even down to the old wood. However, you then have to do without flowers for a year.

Repotting of potted plants

  • Abelias that have been cultivated in tubs should be repotted from time to time.
  • It is best to repot every year.
  • The best time for this is early spring around March.
  • For this purpose, the plants should be planted in the best possible potting soil.
  • This should contain coarse-grained parts such as gravel, grit, lava debris, coarse sand, expanded clay or crushed limestone.
  • A high percentage of peat is not recommended and should be avoided.


Propagation by cuttings
Abelia grandiflora can be propagated by cuttings in summer, but this is relatively difficult. Corresponding cuttings can be obtained, for example, by pruning this plant between May and July or after flowering. You cut off about 10 cm long shoot tips from the plant and remove all leaves except for the top four.

Then place the cuttings in small pots, about three per pot, in a mixture of equal parts peat and sand. The cuttings should be planted so deep that at least two pairs of leaf buds are covered by the substrate.

Now place the pots in a sheltered place, if possible not in the sun, and let them overwinter frost-free, for example in a greenhouse, an unheated conservatory or a cold frame. In the spring, if possible after the ice saints, you can then plant the rooted cuttings outside in the garden or in a bucket.


Depending on the species and region, Abelias are little or very hardy. They need a frost-free phase of at least three weeks. The evergreen Abelia grandiflora is hardy in mild locations down to -12.2 degrees. In some cases, temperatures of a maximum of -15 degrees are tolerated for a short time. Otherwise, frost-sensitive species in the bucket should be brought to a frost-free winter quarters with the first frosts and overwintered there at temperatures between 5 and 10 degrees.

Abelias that winter outside in mild climates, especially young plants, should receive good winter protection, for example in the form of a cover with leaves, brushwood, fleece or mulch.

The water requirement of the plant is low in winter. Despite everything, the Abelia should also be watered in winter, but only moderately and only when the soil has dried well for about 2-3 days. Don’t fertilize during the hibernation.

diseases and pests

Abelias are relatively insensitive to diseases and pests. However, aphid infestation can occur in spring at the start of budding and chlorosis, a deficiency symptom due to a lack of chlorophyll, can occur in cold winters. Excessive humidity can also lead to fungal infestation.

An infestation with aphids can be treated with an appropriate insecticide and the chlorosis will usually regulate itself. For example, planting in a sheltered location can protect against fungal infestation. In addition, the plants can be sprayed preventively with appropriate agents from specialist shops.

Popular Varieties

  • Abelia grandiflora ‘Francis Mason’ – This yellow-leaved Abelia produces white to pale pink flowers from July to September and reaches heights of growth of up to 1 m. This species is hardy in a sheltered location.
  • Abelia grandiflora ‘Kaleidoscope’ – This still relatively new variety, up to 1 m high, impresses with its semi-evergreen to evergreen, variegated yellow foliage and its white flowers, which appear from July to September. It is only conditionally hardy and should be protected from severe frost.
  • Abelia grandiflora ‘Prostrata’ – A conditionally hardy cultivar with contrasting variegated foliage and white flowers appearing between July and September.

Abelias are richly flowering shrubs that beautify terraces or balconies as a container plant. In combination with other shrubs, they can set effective accents in the garden and are also a real eye-catcher when cultivated all year round in a conservatory. These plants are relatively undemanding and easy to care for and relatively hardy in locations with mild winters and with appropriate protection.

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