Apricot tree, apricot tree – planting, care, pruning and diseases

An apricot tree thrives best in a warm location with many hours of sunshine; a protected south-facing slope is ideal. Due to its origin from warm countries, the tree does not tolerate the local cold particularly well and therefore needs special protective measures. But it can also be cultivated in a large flower pot or tub, in which it can be variably moved and can overwinter in a winter quarter. The apricot does not tolerate constant frost, especially if it occurs at the end of winter and the tree has already prepared for spring. For these reasons, the trees are mainly grown in the warm Mediterranean regions. In a protected valley with a mild climate, however, cultivation is also possible in cultivation areas to the north.

• Very warm and sunny location, protected from rain and wind
• Avoid drafts
• prefers light and sandy soil, with a good oxygen supply to the roots
• In loamy soils, lay a drainage beneath the root ball
• Drainage from crushed stone or coarse gravel makes the soil more permeable
• Very loamy and clayey soils hold back the water and damage the tree
• The smaller varieties can grow in the tub
• If the roots grow strongly, repotting is necessary
• However, do not repot too often
• For planting, excavate part of the soil and mix it with ripe compost
• Avoid mineral fertilizers
• The ideal time to plant is spring,
• Immediately after planting, water the planting area extensively
• Then cover with black foil or a mulch to retain moisture and warm the soil

Watering and fertilizing

The apricot tree can best tolerate dry heat with occasional rainfall. Too frequent rain and excessive water supply impair the flowers and the growth of the fruits, and the roots tend to rot. If it is set up in a rainy region, a location protected from rain is advantageous, for example under a roof overhang or under a patio roof. Too little water is just as harmful; periods of drought that are too long lead to dried up leaves and inhibited fruit growth. Rainwater is particularly suitable for watering because it is not as hard and full of lime as conventional tap water.

• Keep the root ball moist, never too wet
• Check with a finger test before each new watering
• The top layer of soil should already be dry
• Water more on hot summer days with little rainfall
• Fertilize from spring to autumn
• Normal fertilization, tree is relatively undemanding, about once a month
• At flowering time and when the tree is full of fruit, it can be a little more fertilizer

Cutting and wintering

Like any fruit tree, the apricot tree should be pruned to maintain the balance between the roots and the above-ground parts of the plant. The stronger the growth of the tree, the more should be cut away at the top so that the existing roots can continue to adequately supply the existing and growing branches. However, the cut must not be too severe, but should be rather cautious, otherwise too many thin shoots can grow. If the apricot tree is near buildings and walls, start cutting in good time so that they are not damaged by the growth.

• Tree pruning always in the growing season
• When cut in winter, apricots have great difficulty sealing the sore spots
• In winter, harmful diseases can more easily attack the trees via the interfaces
• It is ideal to cut directly after harvest, but in emergencies it can also be cut before the flowering period
• Remove tightly growing branches inside the crown, as these do not let any rays of light into the tree
• Shorten shoots that are too long
• Cut holistically to promote an even build-up of the crown
• The aim is to have strong branches with few branches
• If possible, avoid using wound closure agents, only apply tree sap to very large wound areas
• Water often collects under the sealing layer, an ideal breeding ground for a fungal attack
• Pay attention to straight and clean cuts, work with sharp and clean secateurs
• Always cut out sick, dying and dead branches

Apricot trees only take a short break in winter, after which they sprout early and therefore suffer from late frosts. Theoretically, the trees can survive the local winters well if the sap flow is not stimulated too early by an early warm phase, in February or March, and a subsequent cold period can cause damage. The flowers can withstand a bit of frost, but not if it lasts too long and then there is snowfall. They are also very sensitive to prolonged and cold rain. During this time, the risk increases that there will be no harvest in the following months. If the apricot is planted in a tub, it can move to suitable winter quarters.

• Check every location in the garden for winter suitability
• A location in front of a protective, south-facing house wall or under a canopy is ideal
• If necessary in March and April protect the flowers from frost by covering them with fleece
• Move to a bright winter quarter as a container plant
• A sheltered winter garden or a light-flooded attic is ideal
• Cold drafts are undesirable during the winter
• Let the tree rest and water it only occasionally
• Illuminate too dark a location with special light lamps

Plant the apricot kernel

With a little skill, you can grow an apricot tree yourself. To do this, quickly insert a fresh core into a plant pot filled with suitable soil. Due to the hardness of the core, it can take an extremely long time before the new growing shoot can break through the hard housing.

• Use nutrient-rich and germ-free plant substrate
• Prefer sandy and air-permeable soil to avoid mold and waterlogging
• Select a flower pot with a drainage hole
• Only one core per pot
• Remove the pulp from the core
• Insert the core about one centimeter into the substrate
• Moisturize profusely
• A warm and bright place without strong sunlight is ideal
• Keep planting sub-start moist, but not too wet
• When the small apricot sprout is a few centimeters tall, plant it in a larger container
• Refrain from using fertilizers in the first few months

Harvesting the apricot

As a rule, apricots are harvested in the following way, which means that the tree has to be picked more often during harvest time. The apricots are ready for harvest as soon as they turn yellow on the shady side. Apricots are self-fertile so that no second tree is needed for fruiting.

• Check the apricot tree regularly for ripe fruits during harvest time and harvest them
• Never harvest the whole tree at once
• Remove rotting fruit quickly

Refining / ooculating

These are grafted for grafting apricot trees. Only one bud from an already grafted tree is required for this, which is why it is a very economical variant of reproduction. The cut required is not easy, but you can practice on a different log beforehand. It is important that the interfaces are not touched and thus contaminated, except of course with the knife.

• Make a 2 to 3 cm long cut vertically in the bark
• At the end of the cut, make another cut, this time horizontal, approx. 2 cm wide
• Detach both bark wings from the wood, a pocket forms
• Do not set the inoculation knife too deep
• Now push the eye between the bark flaps
• Make sure that it is firmly seated
• If the rest of the eye protrudes, cut it off
• Wrap the bark tightly around the eye, then wrap with PE finishing tape
• Growing takes about 6 weeks
• The eye must always remain green, if the color changes, the refinement has failed
• Eye begins to drive out after a while

Diseases and pests

In most cases, this occurs with incorrect care and an unsuitable location, especially if the plant substrate is permanently too damp or even too wet. Therefore, the apricot tree must be regularly checked for infestation, even in winter quarters, as diseases and pests occur more frequently here.
Frost wrench

• Leaves and fruits are pitted and have holes
• These look like they are woven together
• The frost wrench is a butterfly whose caterpillars can cause great damage
• Fight directly with the application of preparations of the Bacillus thuringiensis
• Use preparations in warm weather, then the caterpillars are particularly voracious
• As a preventive measure, install incubators for great tits that the caterpillars will eat

Frizziness

• Young leaves change color and are blistered
• Fruits and leaves die off en masse
• Frizziness is a fungus that has to be combated as early as January
• A copper-based spray can help
• Use the remedy before budding, otherwise it will no longer work
• When the disease has progressed, completely remove all affected branches, leaves, and fruits

Shotgun Disease

• Round leaf spots that then become holes
• Fungicides are highly effective and proven agents
• Apply in wet weather
• Preparations with copper, network sulfur, Stulln or clay are biologically harmless
• As a preventive measure, planting garlic and onions under the apricot tree will help

Bacterial fire

• Small spots on the edge of the leaf
• These turn brown, after which the leaves die off
• The tree excretes more resin, the fruits get black spots
• Depressions in the bark appear
• Direct control of the disease during the infestation is not possible
• Prevention with trunk whites, early spraying of copper-containing solutions and good observation
• The infestation ends in summer and the fungus dies completely

Conclusion
The apricot tree is easy to care for and beautifies every garden with its brilliant white and fragrant flowers, which sprout in spring. At the end of summer, the garden owner can enjoy juicy, sweet fruits if everything has been done correctly with the care. Since the apricot does not tolerate the late onset of frost, suitable protective measures must be taken at the end of winter to ensure the harvest. In the local latitudes, the right choice of location is crucial, a southern slope with many hours of sunshine is ideal. If it rains a lot and persistently in the home region, a location under a protective canopy or similar shelters helps against too much moisture. Placing it in a bucket is ideal for easy handling, then the tree can move to suitable winter quarters.