Basil cultivation – planting, care and harvest

First of all, a little consolation for all herb lovers: It is usually not because of the wrong care if the basil bought in a pot wilts and dies after a few days in the kitchen. All herbs in kitchen pots are used for consumption as soon as possible and should therefore be harvested quickly. Often the plants come on sale already very stressed, have had cold spells from temporary storage or transport and then die at home after a week at the latest despite intensive care.

Location and soil

Basil loves the sun and warm temperatures. That is why it should be in a sunny window in the apartment. Some varieties are less sensitive to cool temperatures in summer. The wild basil or the genus Afrikan Blue also get by with less heat and can be planted outdoors as particularly robust plants. In the long term, however, the kitchen is only partially suitable as a location for basil.

In the summer months it grows much more luxuriantly if it is placed in a sheltered place on the terrace, balcony or in the garden.

• Use nutrient-rich soil such as quality potting soil.
• No herbal soil, this is very low in nutrients.
• Pay attention to good water permeability, possibly mix in some sand.
• Lots of light, preferably in full sun
• Keep varieties such as Thai or Tulsi basil indoors or in the greenhouse.
• Wild basil or African blue can be planted outdoors.
• But: slowly get used to the open air in partial shade.
• Do not put them outdoors until after the ice saints (mid-May).
• Temperatures over 20 degrees are ideal.
• At temperatures below ten degrees in spring: bring it into the house overnight.
• Basil stops growing when it gets colder than twelve degrees.
• If you have a tomato house in your garden: add basil.

Care and watering

Basil is considered to be sensitive to rain. The problem lies primarily in the lens flare effect of the water droplets, which focus the sunlight on the leaf and burn it up. A good location protects either from the midday sun or from rain.

• Water regularly.
• Always pour directly into the soil, never from above over the leaves.
• Better still, soak the pot in water for a few minutes every five days.
• Allow excess water to drain well.
• The irrigation water should be at least room temperature.
• Check with your finger before the next water injection.
• Never let it dry out completely.
• Waterlogging leads to mold growth and wilting.
• In the pot: fertilize once a week with liquid fertilizer.
• Outdoors: fertilize about every six weeks.
• universal fertilizer with a high nitrogen content.

By the way: If you buy basil herb pots, they are usually planted with too many seedlings. Basil needs a lot of nutrients, so a maximum of ten, better five, shoots should be grown per pot. If there are significantly more plants in the pot, dividing them can help improve the chances of survival: Carefully remove the plant from the pot and divide it into roughly four equal parts. Put in new pots with nutrient-rich potting soil.

Propagation by seeds

Propagating or growing basil yourself is not difficult and gives pretty quick results. It usually only takes about eight weeks from sowing to the first harvest. That is why it is a welcome alternative to buying the herb, especially if it is not only used once a year. The best sowing date is at the beginning of April if the plant is to be kept outdoors or on the balcony. In principle, it can be sown all year round if kept in the room. However, the air inside is very dry in winter because of the heating. This is not necessarily the best climate for young plants.

• Only use cleaned containers for sowing.
• Fill a small bowl or flower pot to the brim with substrate.
• Cactus soil or a mixture of potting soil and a third of sand is suitable as a substrate.
• Briefly push on the base so that the earth settles.
• Press lightly on the edge with your fingers.
• The earth must be loose and be able to store water well.
• Moisten the soil well: ideally with a water sprayer.
• Basil is a light germinator, which means it needs light to germinate.
• Spread about five to 10 black seeds on the substrate.
• Lightly press.
• Do not cover with soil!
• Cover the pot with foil or glass.
• Place in a warm, bright place (out of direct sunlight).
• Optimal germination temperature: 20-24 degrees
• If the seeds turn bluish on contact with water, this is normal.
• If necessary, rinse carefully.
• Be careful not to wash the seeds away.
• Do not keep it too wet, otherwise there is a risk of laziness.
• After just a few days, the seed will germinate and the cotyledons will appear.
• This takes around 5 to 14 days, depending on the variety and conditions.
• Before the seedling hits the foil at the latest, remove it.
• When the second leaves show up: Repot in nutrient-rich soil.

The right soil for sowing

An important factor when sowing and growing plants is the right soil, also known as the substrate. However, this substrate does not always have to contain soil. It should always be room warm at the time of sowing, loose and permeable to water. It is also important that the substrate has a very low nutrient content. Normal potting soil is not suitable for sowing because it contains fertilizer salts that damage the delicate roots of the seedling. Commercially available soil can be mixed with a third of sand or perlite to ensure good water permeability. Cactus soil and coconut are also good for sowing. Kokohum is made from the dried fibers of the coconut and sold as pellets that have to be soaked in water before you can sow. The pressed briquette increases in volume significantly. Kokohum stores water well and does not shrink when it dries out.

Propagation by cuttings

If you are in a hurry, you can always propagate basil by cuttings. Maybe neighbors or friends have a lush shrub and are happy to give away a few stems.

• Find a healthy, bushy mother plant.
• Cut off shoots about four inches.
• Remove leaves from the lower half of the shoot.
• Put in a glass with water.
• After about a week, clear roots can be seen.
• After about two weeks: Place well-rooted cuttings in a pot with soil.
• Be careful not to damage the roots.
• Pour lightly and keep constantly moist.
• Drought is very damaging to the young roots.
• Avoid waterlogging. It causes the earth to go moldy and the plants to rot.
• Put about five to a maximum of ten cuttings in a pot (diameter about 10-15 centimeters).

harvest

Not only are the leaves of the basil very tasty, but also the flowers. However, if flowers form, the basil will stop growing. The last phase before it dies is the propagation of the plant. If you want some of your basil for a particularly long time, you should try to prevent it from blooming. The easiest way to do this is through a regular harvest.

• Always harvest whole stems with multiple leaves from the plant.
• Optimal: sections of around five centimeters.
• At least one or two resting eyes should remain below the incision.
• araus drives the basil out again.
• Never just pluck individual leaves.
• If the plant only has branches without green, this leads irrevocably to death.
• If the harvest is generous, cut back to the last leaf.
• Even now the basil is sprouting again.
• The more often shoots are removed, the bushier the plant becomes

Overwinter

Most types of basil are annual. That means they die off after flowering. However, there are also perennial species. You can spend the winter in the house, but then you need a little more care:

• In early autumn with the first temperatures below ten degrees: moving into the house.
• Choose a very bright place.
• 15-20 degrees are ideal.
• If the heating air is dry, spray frequently with water.
• Water moderately in winter.
• Always allow the soil to dry slightly before watering the next time.
• Location above the heater: place a styrofoam sheet underneath, this protects against heat.
• Good: every 5-7 days place deep in a water-filled container for a few minutes so that the soil soaks up.
• Bad: water a little every day.

Diseases and pests

The biggest mistakes that can be made in caring for it are pouring too little or too much. Then the plant dries up or rots quickly and becomes susceptible to mold, fungi, bacteria and viruses. If it does not have enough light, it forms long shoots of light, recognizable by the light green stems with relatively small leaves that are too far apart.

• In the wild, basil is very popular with snails.
• Even caterpillars like to eat the leaves bare.
• Individual plants die off: stem rot or falling sickness.
• Water less, loosen the soil, increase the planting distance if necessary.
• Leaves turn pale green and curl up: fungal disease.
• Irregular brown spots on the leaves, spreading: bacteria.
• In the event of fungal or bacterial infestation: it is essential to dispose of the whole plant including the pot immediately.
• Spider mites or bedbugs: They damage the plant, but are not poisonous, just very unsavory
• In the event of an infestation: harvest frequently and wash the leaves under running water.
• A strong pruning may be necessary.

The use of pesticides

A wide variety of pests can be found on basil over the course of the year. However, pesticides should never be applied to herbs that are intended for consumption. Even those that are permitted on the basis of potash or rapeseed oil in the home garden are rarely worthwhile. Diligent harvesting and washing of the leaves is the healthiest and most environmentally friendly way of pest control. Sometimes, however, the only thing that helps is disposing of it in the household waste.

Conclusion
If the basil receives sufficient warmth and light, is also in nutrient-rich soil and is always kept slightly moist, the herb lover can look forward to healthy, lush growth and an abundant harvest. However, drought or waterlogging very quickly lead to the death of the entire plant. When harvesting, not individual leaves, but rather entire shoots about five centimeters in length should be cut off. This leads to bushier growth and a delay in flowering, which normally marks the end of the basil’s growth phase.