Boxwood gets white flakes: what to do?

Boxwood is a popular tree for borders, hedges or as a topiary. However, it is very susceptible to pests and fungi. But not everything that looks like a pest is actually one.

Annual phenomenon in spring

White flakes on the boxwood do not necessarily indicate a pest infestation. This phenomenon can also be a completely natural protective mechanism of the plants, which occurs every year in the spring after the leaves have sprout. This happens regardless of the prevailing weather.

In this way, the plant protects its young, tender, still soft shoot tips. As the leaves increase in size, the waxy, whitish wax coverings of the young leaves burst open and trickle down onto the underlying leaves. Sometimes they remain attached to the leaf to be protected for a short time. As soon as it rains, the small flakes disappear very quickly.

boxwood flea

Often white flakes on leaves and shoots are also an indication of an infestation with harmful insects such as the boxwood leaf flea. But the real danger comes from its voracious larvae.

damage picture

In the spring, the pest attacks the young shoots on the boxwood. The leaves show bulges up and down, reminiscent of the shape of a spoon (spoon leaf). The pests use these to lay eggs in summer. If you take a closer look, you will discover white flakes of cotton-like consistency on the upper side of the boxwood leaves. Sticky honeydew can also be found, which in turn can encourage the colonization of sooty mold fungi.

Combat with soapy water

The earlier you start with measures to combat it, the more promising they are, especially if you want to use home remedies. Among home remedies, soapy water has proven to be effective. It’s very easy to make.

  • Soap, water and a cloth or sponge are required
  • Minor soap residue or soft soap
  • First dissolve the soap completely in warm water
  • Then let the solution cool down
  • Saturate a cloth or sponge with the lye
  • Use it to rub the leaves off the boxwood one by one
  • Discard water after treatment
  • Also dispose of the sponge or clean it thoroughly

With an additional cut

  • The simplest and most environmentally friendly of all measures
  • Advisable if you recognize pests or their clutches on the leaves
  • The best time is after the eggs have been laid, around July or August
  • Cutting out affected shoot tips early can sufficiently decimate the infestation
  • If that’s not enough, cut back harder
  • Do not dispose of trimmings in the compost
  • It is best to burn it or put it in a sealable foil bag with the household waste
Note: As a rule, the box gets a bit out of shape, so that a second shape cut is recommended.

Sprays based on neem or rapeseed oil

In addition to soapy water, sprays based on neem or rapeseed oil are said to be very efficient. It is best to apply it in the evening hours to avoid sunburn from the drops of liquid on the leaves. It is sprayed on affected leaves from all sides. These agents seal the respiratory openings of the boxwood leaf flea, causing it to die.

With pesticides

Chemical means should always be the last resort. They usually do more harm than good. This also harms domestic beneficial insects. Therefore, you should always choose and use these remedies with care, for example if all other remedies have not brought the desired success. Since there are no corresponding agents specifically for the boxwood leaf flea in specialist shops, you have to limit yourself to insecticides against sucking insects. They are applied against the larvae in May and against the adult pest from July.

Tip: What always helps are natural predators. In the case of the boxwood leaf flea, these are ladybirds, gall midges, spiders and bugs.

Mealybug

Mealybugs owe their name to the white, woolly and greasy hair. When infested, almost all parts of the plant are affected. It starts on the underside of the leaves and eventually spreads throughout the plant. This pest is one of the sucking insects that, in the worst case, can kill the boxwood.

damage picture

Initially, an infestation of yellowed, dried up and curled leaves appears. Shoots and leaves wither, growth is significantly restricted. On the underside of the leaves, in the leaf axils and in the branches of the boxwood shoots, there are white, cotton ball-like flakes, the cocoons with which the pests protect themselves from predators.

combat

In the case of a light infestation, spraying with an agent based on neem or rapeseed oil is a good idea. The plant should be sprayed with it until it is dripping wet. To protect against sunburn, the box should then be shaded. If the infestation is severe, a stronger pruning is recommended. For specimens in planters, repotting in fresh substrate is recommended.

frequently asked Questions

Total failures are not to be feared. However, they are weakened by a pest infestation and thus more susceptible to other pests.

Those who generally do without pesticides offer natural predators a habitat, so that a massive infestation does not have to occur. A slight pruning in the fall can also prevent the overwintering eggs on the shoots.

The boxwood varieties ‘Herrenhausen’, ‘Blauer Heinz’ and ‘Elegantissima’ are considered less susceptible.

Kira Bellingham

I'm a homes writer and editor with more than 20 years' experience in publishing. I have worked across many titles, including Ideal Home and, of course, Homes & Gardens. My day job is as Chief Group Sub Editor across the homes and interiors titles in the group. This has given me broad experience in interiors advice on just about every subject. I'm obsessed with interiors and delighted to be part of the Homes & Gardens team.

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