Bromeliads are quite common in stores. They can be purchased all year round. The most popular are specimens with bright colors and showy flowers. Bromeliads often have a very different appearance, although they belong to one genus. They differ in size and shape. They take root on branches, tree trunks and rocks. Terrestrial specimens take root in soil. Some bromeliads can handle either method.
Bromeliads often grow on or under trees in their home. They are protected from intense sunlight by their foliage. They also like it as indoor plants. Bromeliads like to spend the summer outdoors, but they need protection here too.
The individual species have different requirements for their location. But what is common to all is that it has to be warm.
Bromeliads don’t like temperatures below 14 ° C. Damage to the leaves can be seen after just a few days. Therefore only put it outside when the night-time temperatures are higher than 14 ° C.
- Bright location, but absolutely protected from midday sun!
- Also protect against strong sunlight in the window!
- The species with soft, thin leaves in particular cannot tolerate direct sunlight. They are usually satisfied with a partially shaded location.
- Bromeliads with hard, leathery leaves need more sun. Your need for light is higher. The more morning or evening sun these plants get, the more intense their leaves will be.
- Sun is required for a flower to develop!
- Earth bromeliads need a lot of sun. They also tolerate them well.
Table of Contents
When it comes to the substrate, a distinction must be made between the species. Terrestrial species need a good growing medium. It is a little more complicated with tied up epiphytic bromeliads.
- It is important to have a plant substrate that does not contain lime!
- The earth should be loose and a bit crumbly!
- A mixture of equal parts peat and foliage soil is ideal.
- Epiphytic bromeliads have special requirements. Epiphytes are placed on coarse bark or Osmunda fibers, preferably on fairly large pieces.
- But you can also use smaller parts such as a soil mixture. Add a part of spagnum and some horn or bone meal.
Planting or repotting
Since bromeliads do not like waterlogging and cannot tolerate wet feet in the long term, there are a few things to consider when planting or repotting the plants. If you plant bromeliads correctly, you can enjoy them for a long time.
- Do not repot the bromeliads in containers until the roots have completely rooted the pot!
- Do not repot epiphytic bromeliads until the plant is too big for the container.
- Somewhat heavy pots are ideal as a planter. They give the often large plants more support and do not fall over as quickly.
- Drainage at the bottom of the pot is recommended.
- Make sure to cover the drain hole with a pottery shard!
- Not all bromeliads can tolerate soil.
- Tillandsia grow directly on bark, wood or cork oak.
- The base of the roots is simply wrapped with peat moss. This is enclosed with plastic-coated wire so that everything holds.
Watering and fertilizing
Bromeliads love water, but it has to be soft. Hard water leaves limescale stains on the leaves. That looks ugly and in the long run it damages the plants. Rainwater is best, they can take it well. If you have no way of using clean rainwater, you can use a filter. Filters for softening tap water are often commercially available and are not excessively expensive.
- It is essential to use lime-free water!
- For rosette plants, always pour into the rosette!
- The rosette should always contain water
- Always let the soil dry off before you pour it again!
- Change the water in the rosette every 3 to 4 weeks, so it can not get fuzzy!
- Tied bromeliads must be sprayed regularly and abundantly with water!
- At temperatures above 18 ° C, all species like it to be sprayed!
- During the main growing season (summer), normal liquid fertilizer is used every three weeks.
- Also put fertilizer in the leaf rosette!
- In the case of epiphytic growing bromeliads, add the fertilizer to the spray water!
- During the rest period in winter, keep the plant substrate only minimally moist and do not fertilize!
bromeliads are not cut.
The propagation of the bromeliads is not difficult. The plants usually do this on their own. They form Kindel. These small children, which arise on the mother plant, can easily be separated. They can be used well as new plants if the mother plant dies after flowering. However, some bromeliads need to be propagated by seeds.
- Kindels are usually not formed until after flowering. That rarely happens before.
- Do not separate the Kindel until the rosette shape is clearly visible.
- Sow seeds in spring.
- Attention – light germs! Do not cover with substrate!
- Put in a mixture of peat and sand.
- Spray everything with soft water.
- Put the bag over the pot.
- Keep the pot warm, but without any sun.
- Germination temperature between 23 and 27 ° C.
- Germination time usually between 7 and 14 days.
- Do not remove the bag until a few leaflets have formed.
Diseases and pests
If the humidity is too low, the edges of the leaves may turn brown. Spraying helps here. Mealybugs and scale insects occur when the humidity is too low.
Recommended bromeliads for beginners
- Aechema fasciata – partially shaded, easily growing, suitable for dry rooms
- Aechema nudicaulis – partially shaded to sunny, grateful bloomer
- Billbergia nutans – cooler location, sunny to partially shaded, adaptable, easily flowering, exhibit in summer
- Nidularium innocentii – temperate location, shady, very willing to flower
- Tillandsia araujei – temperate, bright, easy to cultivate, robust plant, undemanding
Bromeliads are very easy to care for plants if you give them a suitable location, good substrate and soft water. They impress with their striking growth and spectacular flowers. Unfortunately, most bromeliads pass after flowering, but kindles usually form, which can be further cultivated until these also bloom. Most bromeliads are particularly eye-catching when placed alone.