Build, lay out and plant dry stone walls yourself – construction instructions

Basically all types of stone can be used for a dry stone wall. It is advisable to use stone types that are typical for the local region and, if possible, come from a nearby quarry. On the one hand, the dry stone wall is more in harmony with the environment; on the other hand, the delivery costs are kept under control in this way, which cannot be inconsiderable with the heavy stones. In addition, the stones must not have any cracks, be weathered or have voids. Although one of the attractions of a dry stone wall is the natural irregularity of the masonry, it is advisable that the selected stones are a maximum of five times as long as they are high, but also not shorter than they are high. The most popular types of stone for a drywall are:

• Granite
• Sandstone
• Basalt
• Quartz rock
• limestone
• Greywacke

If you want to maintain a uniform appearance despite all the naturalness of the dry stone wall, you can choose stones that have been worked on by the stone works, which, in contrast to quarry stones, are all about the same size.

Planning and preparation

In order to be able to guarantee the stability of the drywall, a rule of thumb has proven that the wall base should be about a third of the height in width. For this reason, dry stone walls in the garden area rarely exceed 1.50 m in height, because this requires a wall base of 40 cm to 50 cm. Experienced hobby gardeners consider orders of magnitude beyond this to be uneconomical. In addition, for walls with a height of 2 m or more, proof of stability is required by law. This must be done by a certified structural engineer, even if a specialist company is constructing the wall. The respective state building regulations and the local community’s development plan should therefore be viewed as part of the planning of the dry stone wall in order to avoid unpleasant surprises. If the dry stone wall serves as a support for a slope that is significantly higher than 1.50 m, a terrace-shaped construction of several walls has proven to be the solution. The required number of stones results from these premises. The following materials and tools should therefore be available:

• Stones
• Gravel or gravel sand
• Sand
• Split
• Spade or shovel
• possibly vibrating plate
• Pegs and guideline
• Zollstock
• Rubber hammer
• possibly drainage pipe

Depending on the planned size and length of the drywall and the associated foundation, it is worth renting or borrowing a vibratory plate for the compaction work.

No dry stone wall without a foundation

Since the construction of a dry stone wall creates flexible masonry without the use of mortar, no concrete foundation is required that extends down to the frost-free depth of 80 cm. It is sufficient to dig the ground about 40 cm deep. This trench is filled up to 30 cm with crushed stone or gravel and compacted. This is followed by a 10 cm thick layer of sand, which is also carefully compacted. If the dry stone wall serves as a support for a slope, it is advisable to create it from the beginning with an incline or approach of 5% to 15%. This measure has two positive effects: The stability of the drywall is increased and the visual appearance that the wall seems to tip over is avoided. The extent of the slope depends on the height of the dry stone wall. This can already be created during the construction of the foundation with the help of an additional layer of sand or gravel. In addition, the desired inclination towards the slope is achieved if, while the stones are being piled up, they are moved 2 cm to 3 cm towards the slope.

The construction of the dry stone wall can begin

If the dry stone wall is made of natural stones in different sizes, the largest specimens form the first row of stones. If the wall is used as a support for a slope, it is built at a distance of 40 cm to leave enough space for the later backfilling. If you prefer to build a straight dry stone wall, you can use a guideline attached to two pegs as a guide. If the soil and the surrounding area are very damp, it is advisable to insert a drainage pipe with a slight slope behind the lower row of stones so that the water can flow off in a certain direction. Now the actual masonry can be created, observing the following instructions:

• fill the joints with loamy sand;
• Stack the stones in an offset manner;
• tap with a rubber mallet;
• the stones must no longer wobble;
• wedge larger joints with gravel;
• Cross joints run as straight as possible;
• Avoid cross joints;
• Plant gaps with the perennials;
• reserve the most beautiful stones for the top of the wall;
• place the largest stones in the corners.

While the dry stone wall is being built layer by layer, the backfilling of the slope takes place at the same time. If it is a free-standing wall, two consecutive walls are created. Regardless of the variant, it is important to note when creating that on average every sixth to eighth stone is laid across the direction of the wall. On a slope, these cross stones act like anchors. In a free-standing dry stone wall, they form the connection between the two stone walls. In this case, experts advise not to leave a gap between the walls, which is filled with crushed stone, gravel, clay or sand. This material can be washed out by the rain and endanger the stability of the wall.

The course of the joints determines the visual effect

The course of the joints plays an important role in terms of the appearance and stability of the drywall. Offset joints absorb the earth pressure prevailing there, especially in the case of a slope wall. Cross joints must therefore be avoided at all costs, as they weaken the stability. A very regular appearance is achieved with layered masonry, as the stones used here are of the same height. If you would like to achieve a little more variety, you can work with natural stones of different heights that have been processed into rectangular and square shapes. A decidedly creative look of the dry stone wall arises when using unprocessed rubble stones, in which attention is nevertheless paid to continuous transverse joints. Experienced hobby gardeners, those who also have a pronounced manual dexterity and want to build a particularly rustic dry stone wall at the same time opt for Cyclops masonry. This is a special form of quarry stone masonry. Only particularly large, often round, unprocessed natural stones are used. These are layered on top of one another with the utmost care, in which case no continuous transverse joints are formed either. The advantage of this construction method lies in the rustic appearance, in the numerous joints, which are ideal for planting with perennials. However, this is at the expense of the internal strength of the drywall. This is a special form of quarry stone masonry. Only particularly large, often round, unprocessed natural stones are used. These are layered on top of one another with the utmost care, in which case no continuous transverse joints are formed either. The advantage of this construction method lies in the rustic appearance, in the numerous joints, which are ideal for planting with perennials. However, this is at the expense of the internal strength of the drywall. This is a special form of quarry stone masonry. Only particularly large, often round, unprocessed natural stones are used. These are layered on top of one another with the utmost care, in which case no continuous transverse joints are formed either. The advantage of this construction method lies in the rustic appearance, in the numerous joints, which are ideal for planting with perennials. However, this is at the expense of the internal strength of the drywall. which are ideal for planting with perennials. However, this is at the expense of the internal strength of the drywall. which are ideal for planting with perennials. However, this is at the expense of the internal strength of the drywall.

The wall crown requires special attention

Since there is no additional covering with the help of panels with a dry stone wall, compared to conventional walls, the wall crown takes over the protection of the entire structure. For this reason, the largest and most beautiful stones are set aside for this right from the start. The fact that fewer joints are created when building the top of the wall ensures greater stability. Ideally, the stones are long enough to cover several butt joints. If the hobby gardener intends to have exceptionally lush vegetation on the dry stone wall, the top of the wall is then covered with a layer of topsoil and can therefore be planted throughout. If it is a free-standing wall that also serves to protect the property, resourceful hobby gardeners have developed an interesting solution for the top of the wall. In this case, flat stones are preferably placed vertically and very close to one another so that they wedge together. This creates a jagged crown of the wall that effectively prevents dark figures from unauthorized stepping over it.

Building dry stone walls on a slope

Skilled bricklayers have determined that a dry stone wall can adapt to a longitudinal gradient of up to a maximum of 8%. Any further gradient is absorbed in the course of the creation of the foundation, which – like the wall base – is stepped. In addition, the top of the wall is adjusted to the slope like a staircase. If you want a more elegant solution and are not afraid of extra work, shape the upper edge of the wall so that it runs parallel to the slope. However, this type of construction requires permanent, precise measurements during the construction work. In addition, the stones of the upper layer have to be processed in a complex manner.

Wall corners of a fence

If the dry stone wall is used to enclose a bed, the corners deserve special attention. It may seem difficult at first, but it isn’t when the following guidance is followed:

• Lay the first row of stones up to the planned corner;
• place the first stone on the angled side on the last cobblestone;
• lay the second row;
• The top of the stones is visible from the outside;
• Alternate rows of stones;
• the desired toothing is formed;
• only choose large stones for the corners.

The larger the natural stones that are laid in the corners, the more stable the drywall will be. This also applies to walls that do not form corners for the end and beginning stones.

This is how the planting of the dry stone wall succeeds

The plants should be put in place while the dry stone wall is being built. If this is only done after the wall has been completed, there is a great risk that the roots of the plants will be damaged while they are being pushed into the gaps. A mixture consisting of sand, clay and clay soil has proven itself as a plant substrate in the joints. Before planting in the joints, the plants are completely soaked so that they can grow quickly and safely. The following plants feel particularly comfortable in a dry stone wall in a sunny location:

• creeping sheaf of gold
• Mauer Steinkraut
• Carpet silver diamond
• Hanging upholstery bell
• Pentecost

The following plants are found in wall joints in partially shaded to shady locations:

• Dwarf lady’s mantle
• Blaue Alpenaster
• White alpine aster
• Goldtröpfchen
• Overhanging spring sedge

The more lush a wall crown is planted, the more effective its appearance. If it is in a sunny spot in the garden, the following plants are suitable:

• Serbian sheaf
• Creeping sheaf of gold
• Stone tassel Armenia
• Mauer Steinkraut
• Sommer-Steinkraut
• Blue pillows

The following plant species thrive on a wall crown that is in the partially shaded to shady garden area:

• Blue-stalked striped fern
• Alpine silver coat
• Pink cat paws
• Wundklee Balkan
• Caucasian Gänsekresse

As an alternative to the targeted planting of dry stone walls, there is the option of leaving this task to nature. Of course, such a process requires a few years of patience. However, it can be an exciting experience for the enthusiastic hobby gardener to observe from year to year how mother nature lets the dry stone wall overgrown.

Conclusion
Anyone who designs their garden as a hobby gardener with a lot of joy and enthusiasm is not forced to leave such a crucial component as a drywall to someone else’s hands. With a little manual dexterity and these instructions, the project can be completed entirely on your own. In addition to the personal sense of achievement, a lot of money is saved in this way; a fact that should not be underestimated. The decisive factor for a successful dry stone wall, overgrown with lush vegetation, is that work is carried out according to well-thought-out planning.