Building a root barrier for raspberries: instructions

Raspberries are an asset to any garden. But their extensive root growth can quickly become a problem. With the right raspberry root barrier guide, you will have the solution.

Raspberries – root barrier makes sense

Although raspberries are shallow-rooted , their root growth takes up more space in all directions each year. Although some offshoots from runners are then formed, which promise a higher harvest, there can also be some problems that are not insignificant:

  • Trouble with the neighbors when roots grow over their property
  • More root mass means significantly more nutrients and moisture are required in the soil
  • Roots can compete with other plants (remove or displace nutrients)
  • Can grow under lawns, creating uneven ground and tripping hazards
  • The more extensive the root growth, the more difficult the plant to remove or transplant

Function of the root barrier

Root barriers are used to limit a specific area in the ground. They are made of materials through which the roots cannot get through and therefore cannot spread uncontrollably throughout the garden and/or beyond the property boundaries. It is important when installing root barriers that they still leave enough space in the soil for the plants to develop well – but only within a fixed space.

Ideally suited materials

  • Special rhizome barrier film made from high-pressure polyethylene about two millimeters thick (available from any specialist garden store)
  • Pond liner with a minimum thickness of 1.5 millimeters
  • Bitumen roofing felt (the thicker, the stronger – recommended V13 with 1,300 grams per square meter)
  • Rustproof aluminum sheet
  • Racial concepts

time

If the roots have already spread too far, the root barrier for planted raspberries should always be placed after the harvest in summer or autumn. Roots may need to be trimmed or severely injured. If planted in spring, this could have a negative impact on growth and especially on fruiting.

The best time to build root barriers is when planting or transplanting. This can set a growth limit for the raspberry bushes right from the start. This saves hobby gardeners time and extra effort for renewed/subsequent digging.

Insertion depth of the rhizome barrier

Despite the fact that the raspberry is one of the shallow roots, the setting depth should be at least 40 centimeters. The cantilevers gain particular growth power when the plant has too little water and/or nutrients available due to the delimitation of the area, which can happen quickly, especially in summer. Then it “sends” its outriggers in search of it, if necessary further into the ground. If you want to be on the safe side, choose a setting depth of about 60 centimeters, because the raspberry roots usually do not go below that.

Note: Root barriers should always protrude about two inches above the surface of the earth, which is why they should be at least two inches higher than the depth of the hole in the ground.

root barrier area

border

If the rhizome barrier is to completely surround the root area of ​​raspberries, the diameter should be about 40 centimeters larger than the expected growth width. For most varieties, this is between 80 and 120 centimeters. For example, with a growth width of 80 centimeters, this results in a root barrier diameter of 120 centimeters – with a width of 120 centimeters, a diameter of 160 centimeters.

Note: Where space is not particularly important, it is advisable to choose a generous root barrier area so that sufficient water can be stored and it does not have to be watered constantly, especially on hot summer days.

longitudinal demarcation

A rhizome barrier is often only used to prevent the roots from creeping into the neighboring property, but they can certainly spread on your own property. Then the root control is only to be placed along the property line. If a minimum of one square meter is assumed, longitudinal root barriers should be placed at a distance of 50 centimeters from the center of the plant. Since this can provoke lateral root spread, a length of the rhizome barrier of at least twice the maximum growth width is recommended.

Utensils needed

  • folding rule/centimeter measure
  • spade
  • Sufficiently deep and long root barrier material
  • Connecting bar for round/oval root barriers
  • Possibly a wheelbarrow or tarpaulin for excavation (advisable if the lawn is directly adjacent)
  • Mulch

manual

Plant raspberries with a root barrier

The simplest variant is to build root barriers if a planting hole has to be dug for planting and transplanting. Please note the following:

  • Pay attention to the minimum size/distance/depth
  • Smooth and bevel the planting hole all around
  • Insert the lock slightly at an angle to the appropriate depth
  • open elements are to be closed (see “Building a closed root barrier”)
  • Mix soil generously with mulch
  • carry out the normal planting process

Build a closed root barrier for raspberries

  • set an “open” barrier in a ditch
  • Let the ends overlap
  • if it is properly seated, squeeze the overlapping area well with your fingers and pull the lock out again
  • Join the overlap tightly and tightly together
  • Anything that protrudes too far can be left or cut off
  • insert and continue as described above
Tip: There are special connecting rails in specialist shops/DIY stores. These are simply pushed onto the two ends and firmly screwed or clicked together so that they are sealed and no roots can find a way through. Adhesive connections are not recommended.

Use later

  • Measure and mark the desired area as described above
  • dig trenches along the markings with a spade
  • Do not immediately dig full depth, but go deeper evenly all around piece by piece (otherwise there is a risk of the edges collapsing)
  • Slightly slope the bottom to the ground
  • Fill in the excavated earth again (on the inside of the barrier) and press down firmly
  • Loosen soil around plants and enrich with mulch

Kira Bellingham

I'm a homes writer and editor with more than 20 years' experience in publishing. I have worked across many titles, including Ideal Home and, of course, Homes & Gardens. My day job is as Chief Group Sub Editor across the homes and interiors titles in the group. This has given me broad experience in interiors advice on just about every subject. I'm obsessed with interiors and delighted to be part of the Homes & Gardens team.

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