In recent years, the calla has made it to the top of the popularity list for garden and indoor plants. With its exotic flowers, it looks very decorative. In addition to the well-known white flowers, brightly colored varieties are now also available. Plants with flowers in yellow, pink, salmon, up to deep burgundy red and even almost black color variants are available from specialist retailers. However, if the desired blaze of color does not materialize and your plant does not bloom, the causes must be found.
Table of Contents
The most common care mistakes
- wrong location
- lack of nutrients or too high a concentration of nutrients
- Drought or waterlogging
- Diseases and pests
- incorrect wintering
The site
The calla comes from Africa, where it is native to the edge of marshland. It needs a lot of moisture in the flowering period and absolute dryness in the resting phase. The closer their location comes to the conditions of their African homeland, the richer the bloom. Waterlogging damages the plant and should be avoided. The ornamental plant loves to be sprayed with water from time to time in summer, it will thank you with magnificent flowers. The exotic plant prefers a warm, bright location. You can stand in the sun in the morning and in the evening, but the blazing midday sun should be avoided. Indoor plants should not be too close to the window in the midday sun, as this could burn the leaves.
The substrate
Like all members of the genus Zantedeschia, the calla loves a nutrient-poor, slightly sandy substrate. Simple potting soil is sufficient. Make sure that the soil you use is free of fungal spores.
The pouring
Pour very soft water. The use of rainwater is recommended. Waterlogging should be avoided, it can lead to tuber rot and the loss of the plant.
The fertilization
Be careful when fertilizing the calla. It needs a nutrient-rich soil, especially during the growth phase. However, too high a concentration of nutrients is harmful to the plant and is one of the most common care mistakes. Use a simple green plant fertilizer from the gardening store. After the end of the resting phase, start fertilizing very slowly, at 14-day intervals. Gradually increase the supply of nutrients up to a weekly fertilization in the flowering period. At the end of the flowering period, reduce the amount of fertilizer again to 14-day intervals and stop completely before the hibernation.
The optimal cut
The basis for a beautiful bloom in the following year is laid with the cut. Remove any dead plant debris after flowering with a sharp knife. Clean the knife properly. This will prevent rot and infection with pathogens and the plant can develop as desired.
The winter
The calla falls into a kind of hibernation after the flowering period, when the hours of sunshine decrease significantly. Take the calla bulbs out of the bed and overwinter them in pots or tubs. Under no circumstances should you water the ornamental plant during this time. The tubers need a cool, dry location for two to three winter months. A temperature of around 10 degrees Celsius is recommended. It does not tolerate frost even in winter. The soil dries out completely during this time.
At the beginning of spring, the plant is repotted in fresh soil, moved to a warmer location and slowly watered again. In March, the usual weekly watering rate is reached and fertilization begins.
Help with pests and diseases
If the calla does not bloom, diseases and pests can also be the cause. An infestation with spider mites or aphids is often found. Commercially available pesticides provide quick and reliable help in the event of an infestation with pests.
Bacteria and fungi can also affect the plant and lead to the loss of the flower. In these cases, replace the earth completely.
Conclusion
If the calla does not bloom, it can be due to various causes. With a change of location or substrate, you can help the desired blaze of colors on the jumps. Brown, yellow or curled leaves indicate care errors. The causes include excessive watering and improper fertilization. It is recommended to stop fertilizing until the ornamental plant has recovered. Then the bloom usually sets in again by itself.
