Begonia, also called schiefblatt, delight the enthusiastic hobby gardener as a colorful houseplant, lush balcony plant and magnificent bedding plant. Usually begonias are cultivated as perennial plants and rarely only for one season. The tuberous begonias are particularly popular, closely followed by the representative hanging begonias. Last but not least, the decorative leaf begonias contribute to the remarkable popularity of this plant genus. For the sake of a better overview, the experts divide begonia into three groups: tuberous begonias, leaf begonias with normal roots and begonias with creeping roots. If you take into account the following instructions for care and wintering, you will find pleasure in this versatile ornamental plant for a long time.
Table of Contents
maintenance
During the warm season, begonias are largely subject to uniform care requirements, regardless of whether they are at the window, in the flower box or planted in the garden bed:
- light to partially shaded location
- Substrate from good soil with peat content
- alternatively a mixture of foliage and compost
- Avoid direct sunlight
- pour evenly
- Avoid waterlogging
- Do not place pots on coasters
- Do not water the leaves and flowers
- fertilize every 14 days in summer
- Regularly remove dead plant parts
- check daily for pests
- Weed in the bed every few days
The begonias cultivated in Central Europe bloom from May to October until they begin their winter dormancy. Although they are quite thirsty during the growing season, they cannot cope with waterlogging. A drainage above the water drainage gap in the planter or as a lower layer in the planting hole of the bed prevents excess irrigation water from accumulating. Suitable drainage material consists of gravel, expanded clay, perlite or pottery shards. By the way, so that the finely crumbly substrate does not clog this protection against waterlogging, experienced gardeners add a piece of garden or weed fleece. If wilted flowers and yellowed leaves are removed promptly, this measure encourages the begonias to develop even more buds.
Overwinter
As perennial, not hardy ornamental plants, begonias always ask about wintering. In this regard, a distinction is made between indoor begonias and bed and balcony begonias. Although they begin to hibernate from October, begonia kept indoors do not need to move to a cooler basement room. It is sufficient if you spend the cold season in a bright, not sunny window seat that is not in the immediate vicinity of the heater. Little is poured in this phase. At the earliest, when the thumb test shows that the surface of the substrate has dried. Humidifiers or bowls filled with water prevent the room from becoming too dry during the heating season.
Alternatively, the begonias are sprayed with soft, room-warm water. Tap water containing lime is less suitable because it causes unsightly stains on the leaves. Water from the rain barrel or melted snow do not have this disadvantage. The ornamental plants do not receive fertilizer during this time.
Begonias, which have beautified beds and balconies in spring and summer, move to their winter quarters as soon as they have shed their leaves in autumn. The ideal conditions for overwintering are provided by a room that is not too bright and has a temperature of around 10 ° Celsius. Begonias in the planter can remain in it; are only changed. You will be given a small dose of water every now and then during the winter break. No fertilizer is used at all. Repotting should only be done in winter if it is absolutely necessary.
Tuberous begonias in the bed are dug up, the above-ground parts of the plant cut back to 3 centimeters and stored in a frost-free cellar. They are only sprayed lightly with water during the winter if they are in danger of drying out. Experienced begonia enthusiasts wrap the tubers with a little newspaper or stick them in loosened soil, which must also not get wet.
Regular ventilation of the room when it is not freezing outside is of great importance for successful wintering. From the end of February or the beginning of March, exposed tubers are placed in loose substrate and watered sparingly. As spring approaches, it’s time to gradually acclimate them to warmer temperatures. Therefore, they will come to a warmer and brighter room for the weeks leading up to the Ice Saints. As soon as the first, small leaflets appear, this is the signal to pamper the begonias with some liquid fertilizer. When there is no longer any fear of frost, the ornamental plants can be put back on the balcony, terrace or in the bed.
Hanging begonias, which are either tuber types or leaf begonias, are also shortened in autumn to 2 or 3 centimeters above the substrate for wintering. If the gardener has enough space for winter quarters, the tubers should not be removed from the substrate, but should remain in the hanging basket in winter. Otherwise, the same care instructions apply to hanging begonia for the winter as for all other begonia.
Beautiful species and varieties of begonia
Despite the immense number of species and varieties, a few Begonia have taken the hearts of gardening enthusiasts by storm:
Semperflorens-Begonien – Eisbegonien
- ideal bedding and balcony plant
- mostly cultivated as an annual
- many varieties in white, pink and red
- blooms all summer
- not winterproof
- Heights of growth 20 cm to 30 cm
Eliator-Begonien
- the classics
- popular houseplants
- also thrive in the bed
- persistent flowers
- develops many buds
Begonia albopicta
- attractive leaf begonias
- green leaves with silver-white dots
- makes small, white flowers
- ideal for housekeeping
Coral Begonia – Korallenbegonie
- popular shrub begonia
- numerous beautiful varieties
- makes white, pink or red flowers
- blooms in the room all year round
- particularly resistant to pests
Begonia grandis
- Tuberous Begonia from China
- heart-shaped, green leaves
- numerous small pink flowers
- feels comfortable in the bed and in the room
Begonia maculata – Forellenbegonie
- ideal leaf begonia for terrariums
- Leaves 20 cm in size with white spots
- prefers a humid environment
- Height in the pot up to 35 cm
Begonia odorata
- Flowers give off a light lemon scent
- large, shiny green leaves
- many small white flowers
- also tolerates direct sunlight
Begonia gigantea – Giant flower Begonia
- large red, pink or white flowers
- some varieties also multi-colored
- the perfect bedding and balcony plant
- from June to October
- Growth height up to 25 cm
Begonia pendula ‚Yellow‘
- grandiose traffic light begonia
- double, yellow flowers
- Flowering from June to October
- grows evenly down to 40 cm
In addition to the now more than 12,000 begonia hybrids, many new breeds are added every year. Increased emphasis is placed on producing begonias that can cope with blazing sunlight and are as resistant to pests and diseases as possible.
Multiply
Tuberous begonias can be propagated in different ways. This is particularly easy with the help of head cuttings. For this purpose, cuttings about 10 cm long are cut off in spring or summer and placed in potting soil, which consists of a peat-sand mixture. For the next 3 to 4 weeks, put the growing containers in a light, but not sunny, location and cover them with cling film. When the first roots have formed, the young plants are transplanted into compost or potting soil and then treated like adult begonias.
The second method of propagating tuberous begonias can be tackled in autumn. During this time, small nodules form on the leaf axils. When the plants shed their leaves and the shoots die, these nodules are cut off and stored in a not too bright, dry room at around 12 ° Celsius until spring. When spring is just around the corner, put them in growing containers that are filled with slightly moist and peaty substrate. The brood nodules must never be completely covered with soil.
The pure multiplication of the hybrids of the tuberous begonia can, however, also be carried out by division. In the spring, the largest possible tuber is cut into pieces that have at least one vegetation point. These pieces of tubers are placed in individual growing pots that are filled with fresh soil. They are then grown in a partially shaded location until they are planted in the bed. Leaf begonias are preferably propagated by leaf cuttings. A firm and undamaged leaf is cut from the mother plant. The main nerve of this leaf is then cut in two or three places with a sharp knife. This leaf cuttings are placed on a peat-sand mixture with the underside upwards and then weighted down with small stones. Finally, a plastic wrap is placed over the cultivation container so that young roots can form as quickly as possible at the incisions. During this time, the leaf and substrate are only kept slightly moist and the film is ventilated from time to time so that no mold develops.
The majority of experienced hobby gardeners consider propagation by sowing to be problematic and time-consuming. Direct sowing in the bed can take place from mid-May at the earliest, which results in a time window that is far too small for good growth in the local regions. Alternatively, the begonia seeds can be grown indoors from March. However, since these seeds are extremely sensitive, experience shows that there is only a 50 percent chance that healthy seedlings and plants will develop from them.
Diseases and pests
Almost all types of begonia and hybrids are susceptible to powdery mildew, a fungal disease that manifests itself as a white coating on leaves, flowers and shoots. If you recognize the infestation in good time, it may be sufficient to thoroughly remove the diseased parts of the plant to prevent further spread. In this process, it is of crucial importance that the tools are thoroughly disinfected with high-percentage alcohol, such as spirit, after each individual cut. Since powdery mildew strikes predominantly in winter when the air is too dry, air humidifiers or water-filled bowls in the room serve as a preventive measure. In addition, the plants in the bed, on the balcony or in the apartment should not be too close to one another.
Lacewing larvae have proven themselves as biological control agents against aphids, mites and thrips, which even begonias do not spare, as well as non-containing pesticides. If the leaves of the begonia take on a glassy appearance, then turn yellow and brown, small leaves have spread here, a type of nematode that can be in the water. The diseased parts of the plant should be removed as soon as possible. In addition, it is advisable not to spray the begonias any more, but to use a humidifier.
Conclusion
The selection of flowering summer plants that like to have a little shade is really not that great. How good that there are the begonias, one of the most species-rich plant genus. Begonia produces magical flowers and breathtaking leaves with tireless zeal. They don’t like direct sunlight, especially in summer. Therefore, they often decorate shady terraces and flower beds, as well as the east and west windows of the apartment. The most important part of care is the well-dosed administration of water, because begonias need sufficient moisture on the one hand, but cannot tolerate too much of it. A regular thumb test is therefore essential to determine the sensitive water requirement. Since no begonia variety has yet proven to be winter hardy,
