Sweet chestnut – planting and care of chestnuts, sweet chestnuts

In the Middle Ages, the sweet chestnut saved many a family from starvation with its nutritious chestnuts. The modern garden enthusiast knows how to use the chestnut as an impressive ornamental tree that symbolizes permanence in changing appearance. The prickly fruits of the chestnut only appear after 2 to 3 decades; however, it fulfills its task as a structuring garden sculpture with flying colors right from the start. As undemanding as the beech tree appears; Without observing elementary tips on plants and care, the cultivation of a majestic sweet chestnut will remain a dream and the enjoyment of home-grown chestnuts will move into the distant future.

location

Since the sweet chestnut can reach a height of 20 to 25 meters, a spacious sphere of activity is one of the essential factors when choosing the location. In the beginning, the sweet chestnut only develops a deep taproot. In the course of time, a widely branched system of side roots follows, which also takes up a reasonable spread area. Last but not least, the minimum distance to the neighboring property, to the street or to your own house may be disregarded. If the hobby gardener considers these premises to be fulfilled, it is important to pay attention to the condition of the soil.

  • As a light tree, the sweet chestnut needs a sunny to semi-shady location.
  • Warm, sheltered location, exposed to as little wind as possible.
  • Deep, humic soil with a light sand or gravel content.
  • Moist, well-drained soil with a pH of 4.5 to 6.

The sweet chestnut is particularly vigorous in locations with a lime content of less than 20%. At the same time, it welcomes locations with a high potassium and phosphorus content, as long as they are not too heavy or even waterlogged.

Tip: In view of the multifaceted demands on the location, it should be worth investing in a professional soil analysis before planting.

The best time for planting

The sweet chestnut is usually offered by tree nurseries in three different variants: container goods, ball goods and bare-root.
A chestnut in a container can be planted all year round as long as the ground is not frozen. The situation is different when purchasing bare-root or bale goods. In this case, there is a very limited time window for planting.

  • March to mid-April.
  • Mid-October to late November.

In bare-root form, the sweet chestnut is significantly cheaper than in a container. However, since she has no contact with potting soil, she has to go into the ground immediately. Even storage for 1 to 2 days can destroy the hope of a magnificent sweet chestnut. It is true that bale goods do not cause such urgent time pressure because the roots are surrounded by earth. Nevertheless, timely planting is also required in this case if the project is to succeed.

plant

Once all open questions regarding the location have been clarified, the next step is to prepare the soil. If you don’t want to pay for a comprehensive soil analysis, you should at least do a simple pH test. Experience has shown that this value is around 7 in conventional garden soil, i.e. in the neutral range. Since the sweet chestnut thrives better in slightly acidic potting soil, the hobby gardener can use the test from the garden center to find out whether there is a need for action. A too high, alkaline pH value can be lowered with simple means such as adding peat, rhododendron earth, coffee grounds or coniferous compost.

  • At the planned location, loosen the garden soil to the depth of a spade.
  • Meanwhile, place the still potted chestnuts in a bucket of water and let them soak.
  • Dig a planting hole twice the diameter of the root ball.
  • Lay drainage out of gravel or shards of clay on the sole to prevent waterlogging.
  • Mix the excavation with garden compost and horn shavings, but do not use stable manure.
  • Plant the potted sweet chestnut as you bought it from the nursery.
  • If there is a bale cloth, open it last. The material will rot in the earth.
  • Treat the potting soil well and water it generously with low-calcium water.

After planting, the shoots are cut back by around 30%. The background to this recommendation is the fact that chestnuts lose part of their root mass when they are removed from the tree nursery. So that the tree does not exhaust itself completely to care for all parts of the plant, pruning provides valuable support for successful growth. A chestnut in the container does not necessarily need to be cut back because no root mass was lost.

Note : Since the sweet chestnut is self-sterile, at least a second specimen should be planted within a radius of 40 to 60 meters as a pollinator if large, hearty chestnuts are to be harvested sooner or later.

The fixation

A large tree, such as the sweet chestnut, is susceptible to windthrow during the growth phase, regardless of whether it was planted as a container, balled or bare-root product. In order to give the tree sufficient stability right from the start, it is advisable to drive one or more support posts into the ground at the same time. Ideally, the wooden posts take the chestnut in the middle and are connected to it with straps. So that they do not damage the root area when hitting the ground, the tree is only then completely surrounded with potting soil.

At least in the first two years of standing, the fixations remain in place, with regular checks being made to see whether the binding material has grown into the bark. When using special belts, such damage is hardly to be feared; in the case of raffia ribbon or coconut rope, however, the risk should not be underestimated. The resulting blemish on the decorative tree bark is almost irreparable.

watering and fertilizing

Until the sweet chestnut has extended its taproot deep enough into the ground, it is watered regularly, preferably with collected rainwater. In the latitudes here, adult trees are content with normal rainfall.

  • Only water the sweet chestnut thoroughly if it has been dry for a long time.
  • Persistent waterlogging causes more damage than a summer drought.
  • Targeted application of fertilizer is not necessary.

If the chestnut is covered with a layer of garden compost from time to time during the growth phase, it will gladly accept the additional nutrients.

To cut

The chestnuts, which thrive in the wild without ever touching scissors, show that pruning is generally not necessary. If the sweet chestnut serves as a solitary eye-catcher in a large park, the hobby gardener naturally strives for a symmetrical, harmonious silhouette, which is promoted with the help of a cut.

  • The pruning determines 3 to 4 leading branches. All other shoots are removed.
  • Shorten expansive side branches in favor of a harmonious crown shape.
  • Completely cut off vertically growing shoots without damaging the branch ring.
  • Remove deadwood, diseased and stunted branches, and criss-crossing branches at the base.
  • Eliminate water shoots and stick eruptions as a matter of principle.

Traditional gardening wisdom has it that a tree has been properly pruned when a cap thrown in the air falls through the crown to the ground.

Note: The base of the trunk should be cleaned of water shoots and shoots in addition to the pruning every year.

hibernate

A well-established sweet chestnut can easily withstand the freezing temperatures of Central Europe. Young trees should receive winter protection for the first three years until they have hardened sufficiently.

  • Cover the tree pit with a thick layer of leaves or straw.
  • Wrap bast mats or fleece around the shoots.
  • Do not use road salt in the immediate vicinity.

If there is a threat of a winter with long-lasting frost (minus temperatures without snowfall), there is a risk that the chestnut will dry up. Consequently, on a frost-free day, it receives a well-measured dose of water directly on the root ball.

multiply

The professionals in the tree nurseries propagate the sweet chestnut by grafting a scion onto a suitable base. This method works quickly and produces strong young plants, because in the commercial sector the principle ‘time is money’ applies. The hobby gardener can take a more leisurely approach to propagating his chestnuts without having to grapple with technical terms such as oculation or copulation. The following two methods of propagation have the best chance of producing a vital, young sweet chestnut:

sticks

  • Cut healthy, strong cuttings in late winter.
  • Each stick has at least 3 to 4 sleeping eyes.
  • The shoot tips are cut straight, the lower ends at an angle.
  • Fill the seed pots with a moist peat-sand mixture.
  • Plant 2/3 of a stick in each pot with the sloping cut point downwards.

In a bright, frost-free spot, new roots will develop from the leaf nodes while the substrate is kept minimally moist. If the cuttings begin to sprout new leaves in the spring, this is proof that the desired root system is forming underground. The garden lover is now free to plant the rooted cuttings straight away in the garden or to cultivate them in a tub for another season to strengthen their resistance.

sowing

  • After harvesting, soak some chestnuts in water for 2 days.
  • Fill the seed pots with nutrient-poor substrate and plant 1 chestnut each.
  • Do not stick deeper than 1 cm into the soil and water lightly.

Experience has shown that the seedlings have thrived after a year so that they can be transplanted into normal substrate and a larger bucket. Until then, the substrate and seedlings must neither dry out nor be drowned with water.

Differentiate sweet chestnuts and horse chestnuts

At first glance, both trees and their fruits look confusingly similar. In truth, they are not even connected by a botanical relationship. While the sweet chestnut (Castanea sativa) belongs to the beech family, the horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) is an independent plant genus. It is important for every plant lover and his family to recognize the differences, because while sweet chestnuts are considered a culinary delicacy, horse chestnuts are not only inedible for humans, but also poisonous. Based on the following 4 characteristics, even the layman can tell which chestnuts are in front of him:

  • The fruit cups of the chestnuts are densely covered with long spikes.
  • Horse chestnuts always contain only one fruit per shell, while sweet chestnuts have 2 to 3.
  • Sweet chestnuts are flattened and heart-shaped, while horse chestnuts are round.
  • The chestnut fruit tip is hairy, while horse chestnuts have no tip at all.

Even if horse chestnuts are not suitable for consumption, they are great fun for children to collect and make imaginative figures out of.

Conclusion
The sweet chestnut captivates with an imposing silhouette, pretty white flowers in June and July, elegantly shiny foliage and tasty fruits. As a solitaire in a large park, the sweet chestnut has developed over the decades into a natural monument that spans generations if it is cared for properly. Apart from the annual increase in leaf fall and the pruning measures at dizzy heights, the chestnut does not require much attention. For the small hobby garden, on the other hand, Mother Nature has a wide range of attractive alternatives.

Kira Bellingham

I'm a homes writer and editor with more than 20 years' experience in publishing. I have worked across many titles, including Ideal Home and, of course, Homes & Gardens. My day job is as Chief Group Sub Editor across the homes and interiors titles in the group. This has given me broad experience in interiors advice on just about every subject. I'm obsessed with interiors and delighted to be part of the Homes & Gardens team.

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