Clematis care – clematis – planting, cutting & wintering

Most clematis are quite frugal fellows. The right location and appropriate planting is important. There are a few things to consider. Otherwise, only the cut is important. The clematis is divided into three cutting groups. They are cut differently. Nothing more is actually needed for maintenance.

useful information

Clematis means flexible tendril and the name says it all. The plants provide colour, they beautify facades, pergolas, conjure up enchanted arbors, conquer meter-high trees, beautify unsightly fences and look good on the wrought-iron pavilions that, if I had my way, would be found in every garden. I think you can tell I like clematis. I have a lot of them in my small garden.

It is important to note that you know the vigor of the variety beforehand. There are quite vigorous varieties that grow several meters in a year. They don’t fit everywhere. Also with the winter hardiness it is not ideal with some very beautiful varieties. Especially the evergreen varieties like to freeze away above ground.

Clematis is said to not do well in the sun. This also applies to some. But there is a suitable clematis for every location . There are sun-loving and shade-loving varieties, and many in between. If you are not sure which clematis is the right one for your garden, you should take a look at Clematis-Westphal on the website. There you can get all the information and the largest selection of varieties for sale. I buy at garden fairs or from Westphal and have never been disappointed.

location

Clematis in their natural environment grow on sunny forest edges or in clearings. The location requirements have hardly changed.

• Most clematis prefer a partially shaded location.
• Morning or evening sun is ideal.
• A shaded root area is absolutely important.
• The easiest way to achieve this is to plant low perennials around it.
• However, one large or several smaller stones, which are placed on the root area, are also sufficient.

Plant substrate The soil is important for a clematis to feel comfortable.

• Deep, humus-rich soil is important.
• It should be evenly moist, but not too wet!
• It is therefore beneficial to generously incorporate mature leaf compost or potting soil.
• If the soil is impermeable, a layer of sand under the planting hole protects the sensitive roots from waterlogging.

plant

There are a few things to consider when planting! Clematis, for example, are planted at an angle. In addition, they do not like root competition and have their demands. If you pay attention to the few details when planting, you will have all the more pleasure in your vigorously flowering plants afterwards.

Since clematis do not like root competition, they are planted in pots. Clematis are often bought in very deep plastic containers. They can be planted in these, but the soil is removed. In this way, the roots can grow downwards and are not pressed from the side. With mit it works great. This planting has another advantage. The plants can be transplanted without complications.

The best time to plant clematis is late summer, around August, September. Soil temperatures are ideal during this time for roots to form. They have to be relatively high, around 20 degrees, which is only possible at this time. In addition, vegetative growth is largely complete during this time.

• The planting hole should be about 2 spades deep. Below is a 10 cm thick drainage made of gravel or pebbles. Then fill in some garden soil and compost.
• Water clematis thoroughly before planting!
• Place the plant at an angle with the root ball in the center of the planting hole. The shoots should point to the climbing aid!
• The supporting staff is led to the trellis. Carefully place longer shoots around the climbing aid!
• Water thoroughly after planting!
• It is generally said that clematis are planted a hand’s breadth deeper than they were in the pot. You can’t go wrong with it, no matter what kind.
• Plant large-flowered hybrids so deep that the first pair of buds are underground.
• This increases the chance that the clematis will sprout again from below after a wilt disease.
• The ability to climb relies on leaf tendrils. It is therefore advisable to provide the plants with a climbing aid .
• The ideal trellis for clematis consists of thin, predominantly vertical rods or strips.

watering and fertilizing

Clematis are quite frugal. They need water from time to time, depending on the weather of course. They also get by with few nutrients. In nature, they also bloom great and are not fertilized.

• Do not let the soil dry out completely!
• Always keep slightly moist, although most varieties don’t go limp right away.
• Avoid waterlogging!
• It is good if the top layer of soil is well dried before watering again.
• Clematis in the tub need more water!
• It is cheap and sufficient to supply the clematis with two to three liters of mature compost once in spring.
• Many wild species also have a slightly increased need for lime. That’s why you spread a handful of garden lime in the root area every two years in winter.

Be careful when tilling the soil!

Clematis have fine superficial roots. Therefore, you should avoid all types of tillage in the root area! Plucking weeds is allowed, but not chopping. A layer of pine bark mulch protects against weeds and dehydration. You also have to be a bit careful when handling the plants. Damage to the shoots should be avoided, otherwise the risk of infection for wilt diseases increases.

To cut

The clematis is divided into three cutting groups . If you don’t know the name of your clematis, you can finally find out the pruning group based on the flowering time. Group 1 are the spring bloomers, group 2 are those that bloom in early summer with mostly a follow-up bloom in late summer, and group 3 are the summer bloomers that only bloom on this year’s wood.

Pruning group 1 – flowering in April/May – are hardly ever pruned back. After flowering, only dead or diseased shoots are removed. If the plant has grown too large, it can be shortened and thinned out. This stimulates the formation of new shoots that will flower the following year. Balding from below is prevented by cutting off a shoot at the bottom. Then, as a rule, at least one new one forms from below. This can be repeated every year until the plant has rejuvenated.

Cut group 2– Flowering in early summer and second flowering in late summer – cut back by a quarter to half annually in November or December. Prune strong-growing varieties more than weak-growing ones! Also, cut out any dead and weak branches! A hard pruning every four years is recommended for rejuvenation. All shoots are shortened to 30 cm in late autumn or winter.

Pruning group 3 – summer bloomers – only bloom on this year’s wood and are therefore safely cut off 30 cm above the ground in late autumn or early spring. This promotes vigorous new growth. Year after year, more shoots come out of the ground. The plants are really lush. Many climb several meters every year.

hibernate

Many clematis species and varieties are sufficiently hardy for our Central European climate. But there are also breeds that are not. One of them is Clematis florida ‘Bicolor’. I tried twice, twice she didn’t survive the winter where others had no trouble. It is therefore important to make sure when buying that you are purchasing plants that are sufficiently hardy. The sales signs often contain incorrect values. Therefore, it is better to make sure that it is only hardy or very high minus temperatures.

For me, all clematis survive without protection. Only the ‘Fond Memory’ I had covered a bit and she thanked me for it. Overwintering clematis indoors is certainly possible, but not ideal. Temperatures range from 0 to 10 degrees. The light conditions are the same because the plants lose all their leaves anyway. I plant the clematis cultivated in the tub in the bed in late autumn. So far everyone has survived there. In the spring they go back into the pot.

multiply

You can propagate clematis yourself. This is achieved by cuttings, sowing or lowering and is not complicated at all. So you can always have more of the wonderful plants in the garden or give them away. This is guaranteed to be well received.

• Sowing is only worthwhile for the varietal, botanical species such as C. alpina, C. tangutica and C. vitalba.
• Hybrids are already looking very different in the next generation.
• Freshly harvested seeds in seed compost and only lightly cover!
• Keep slightly moist!
• There are cold germs among the clematis, which require cool temperatures and germinate very slowly.
• Cuttings need evenly warm soil temperatures and high humidity!
• C. integrifolia and other perennial clematis are suitable for propagation by cuttings (May/June).
• Perennial clematis can be propagated by dividing the rootstock.

diseases and pests

The most feared disease is clematis wilt. So far I have been spared from it, but many plants are affected. Large-flowered hybrids are particularly affected. The fungal disease kills the part of the plant above ground.

• Clematis wilt can be prevented by choosing the right variety.
• If the plant is infested, cut it off immediately at ground level! It drives out again from below, out of the earth healthy if the disease is noticed in time.
• Powdery mildew can occur in wet, muggy weather.
• Otherwise snails should eat the young shoots. I can’t confirm that, but it could be. Collecting or slug pellets, snail fences and the like helps here.

Conclusion
Clematis are beautiful flowering plants that should not be missing in any garden. They are not very demanding and do not require much work. Combined with roses, summer flowers, perennials and other climbing plants, clematis unfold their full beauty and charm. The plants actually look good as solitaires, but combining them creates great garden pictures. Climbing roses or roses in general together with matching clematis are always an eye-catcher. I love clematis and can only recommend it. There are also great varieties for beginners.