Climbing aids for clematis in beds and tubs: wire, wood & Co

It goes without saying that trellises should give a climbing plant the opportunity to climb up and hold on to it securely. To ensure this, they should first and foremost be stable and firmly anchored. In addition, there are other aspects that make climbing easier or even more difficult for clematis and other creepers:

• Surface: as non-slip as possible and not too smooth for a secure hold of the plant
• Durability: high resistance to moisture, fungal attack, etc., since the climbing aid can hardly be replaced without damaging the plant
• Harmlessness: no treatment (e.g. weather protection) with substances that are critical for plants, or substances that evaporate, wash out, etc.
• Dimension: Total size and spacing of the cross braces matched to the desired growth size that can be achieved by the plant (e.g. clematis shoot length usually up to a maximum of 6m)

Concrete construction methods in check

There are various ways to meet the requirements for clematis climbing aids. Both in their construction and in the selected material, there are different variants, each with their own strengths and weaknesses. Before considering the different options, however, it is worth taking a quick look at very general aspects of the climbing aids:

stability

Even if a bar or trellis remains slightly pressed into the ground on its own, this is by no means the case when it is overgrown. Because the mass that the clematis gains over the course of its life is not negligible. The trellis should therefore be anchored deep enough in the ground, or alternatively mounted on the house wall, a balcony support or another component or additionally reinforced.

attachment

Durable and resilient materials should be used to attach the components used to one another. Tying them together with easily decomposable garden bast or other natural fibers is therefore rather unsuitable for permanent trellis. Examples of good options are:

• wire
• fittings
• nails
• cable ties
• UV and weather resistant garden cord

durability

No matter what material you choose, there should be sufficient durability for use as a trellis. Because both metal and wood or other options can fail within a short time under the influence of wind, weather and frost if the wrong material is selected and put an end to the dream of a lush clematis as eye-catching vegetation.

construction

Vertical climbing aids for clematis

A vertical stick alone can be enough for the clematis to climb up. In this case, it is important that the surface is rough enough to provide the leaf stalks with enough support to prevent them from slipping off.

Pro:

• Can be used to save space
• Well suited for small planters
• In combination with a tub or plant pot, the location can be easily changed without damaging the plant

Against:

• No growth possible
• Limited grip despite the grippy surface
• Often unstable, must be secured additionally

trellis

If, on the other hand, the vertical bars are provided with horizontal connections and climbing opportunities, a flat lattice is created. If the distances between the horizontal climbing aids for clematis are coordinated in such a way that the clematis can grow independently to the next crossbar, very dense and at the same time extensive greening can be achieved.

Pro:

• Flat vegetation possible
• Growth can be influenced in the shape
• High stability due to bracing effect

Against:

• High space requirement
• Poorly suited for plant pots

materials

Of course, there are hardly any limits to creativity when building climbing aids. However, the general advantages and disadvantages of the most common materials should be kept in mind:

wood

Whether it’s a grown branch, a sawn slat or a planed visible surface, as a natural building material, wood in its diverse forms blends harmoniously into the garden design. It also works technically with the following tips:

• When impregnating, ensure that it is harmless to clematis
• Consider the weather resistance of untreated wood, e.g. Douglas fir, beech, etc. instead of spruce or pine
• Do not choose a cross section that is too small due to the weight of the plant shoots
• Note high stress due to soil moisture in the floor area, protect areas separately if necessary!

metal

• very durable, also possible as a rusting surface (so-called Corten steel)
• Avoid copper because of harmful effects on plants
• very load-bearing in small cross-sections, therefore restrained design possible
• high level of prefabrication available, e.g.: welded wire mesh

special case wire

As a special variant of the metal trellis, wire is very well suited to form filigree, unobtrusive and at the same time very effective supports. The most important thing is a solid frame design, so that the wires can be sufficiently tensioned. Otherwise they sag slightly under the weight of the vegetation and only form very irregular vegetation. In addition, the following should be noted:

• choose sufficiently rough wire to support the plant, eg twisted wire rope
• Allow for post-tensioning due to the natural elongation of the wires
• use galvanized wire or stainless steel to prevent rusting through and tearing off

plastic

Plastic climbing aids are hardly available and common today. Contrary to previous expectations, most plastics are still not UV or weather-resistant in reality and are therefore only suitable to a limited extent as support for climbing plants. In addition, the materials often give off plasticizers, which can then affect and damage the plants that grow on them.

The structure in a concrete example

Of course, a climbing aid for the clematis can be produced in many different shapes and constructions. In order to clarify the systematic procedure, the construction of a simple wooden trellis is explained step by step below:

Materials required:

• Wooden sticks or slats made of durable wood, eg beech or Douglas fir
• ALTERNATIVE: Impregnated wood
• Cross-sections of vertical supports depending on size approx. 4x4cm to 6x6cm
• Cross-sections of horizontal beams approx. width x height 2 x 4 cm to 2 x 8 cm
• Wood screws approx. M6 to M8, galvanized or stainless steel

Procedure when erecting in the bed:

• Sharpen the bottom of the supports with a hatchet or saw
• Hammer in the supports at a distance of approx. 1m in the desired location, insert a board or post protection on top as wood protection. Alternatively, use a rubber mallet
• Drive in supports at least 0.30 to 0.50m deep
• Screw the horizontal beams upright (set the long side of the cross-section vertically) to the supports, checking the horizontal alignment with a spirit level
• bottom beam approx. 0.50m above the floor
• Screw additional supports to the supports with distances of approx. 30 cm from each other

Special feature plant pot

When it comes to the use of trellis, it is actually irrelevant whether a clematis is grown in a bed or in a plant pot. Because the climbing plant is the same regardless of where it grows and therefore has the same requirements. However, you should note one thing: Since a pot or plant trough can only hold a limited volume of soil, it only offers the plant, including its climbing aid, a limited degree of stability. The higher the shoots grow, the higher the center of gravity of the plant and pot moves, so that at some point the point is reached where it is easy for the wind to knock over the fragile construct. Plant pots should therefore be large enough for use with a climbing plant and, if necessary, weighed down with stones or similar in the bottom of the pot.