Its tendrils, which can be up to 4 meters long, are covered with dainty little hearts. With busy growth, the climbing fig transforms living spaces and conservatories into a green idyll that invites you to unwind. In order to give your home a tropical feel-good atmosphere with a Ficus pumila, no extensive expenditure is required. The little sister of the rubber tree thrives wonderfully on the shapely climbing frame, in the traffic light and as a ground cover if sufficient attention is paid to its requirements in terms of light and temperature conditions as well as the water and nutrient balance. Read here how the care of the climbing ficus works in detail.

Characteristics

  • Belongs to the genus of figs (Ficus)
  • Name of the species: climbing fig (Ficus pumila)
  • Abundantly branching, climbing ornamental foliage plant
  • Native to the tropics and subtropics
  • Evergreen and not hardy
  • Growth length 50 to 400 cm
  • Heart-shaped leaves variegated in solid green or cream-green
  • Good climbing ability thanks to numerous aerial roots
  • Mainly used as an ornamental plant in living rooms and conservatories
  • Slightly toxic in all parts

Since a climbing ficus usually does not bloom in indoor culture or pollination does not occur due to a lack of insects, the plant does not produce any fruit.

location

The climbing fig pulls out all the floral stops when it finds a location with these light and temperature conditions:

  • Half shade to light shade
  • Temperatures between 18 and 25 degrees Celsius
  • High humidity of more than 60 percent

A climbing ficus with solid colored leaves is content with a lower amount of light than hybrids with variegated foliage. The lighter the drawing of the ornamental leaves, the higher the daily light yield for the plant should be. A dark location does not affect vitality; Of course, the marbled little hearts will turn green within a short time.

Tip: In order to raise the humidity to the desired level, bowls already filled with water in the immediate vicinity of a climbing fig are sufficient. A commercially available air humidifier, a babbling indoor fountain or an aquarium can create a tropical microclimate.

pour

If you water a climbing ficus evenly, the care is regulated. Fluctuations in one direction or the other put stress on the tropical plant, which impairs vigor and vitality. Therefore, check the surface of the substrate daily with a thumb test. If the top 2 cm feel dry, there is a need for watering. Let the water run onto the ground until the first drops fall out of the opening in the floor. In this dosage, the root ball remains constantly moist inside without waterlogging. The excess water collected in the coaster is emptied after 15-20 minutes.

water quality

Native to the tropical regions of the world, a Ficus pumila prefers lime-free water. To meet this desire, we recommend using collected rainwater. If there is no access to it, hard tap water is descaled. It is enough to leave a filled watering can for a while to reduce the lime content. Descaling is more effective without chemical agents using peat. To do this, fill a cotton bag with 1 liter of peat. Hang this in a 10 liter watering can for 2 to 3 days to obtain wonderfully soft water for your exotic roommate.

Tip: prudent hobby gardeners spray the climbing fig with a fine mist of soft water several times a week.

Fertilize

In order for the climbing fig to produce its lavish foliage, the substrate only provides enough nutrients in the first 6 weeks after potting. In the period that follows, stocks should be replenished, at least during the growing season. How to fertilize properly:

  • Fertilize liquid every 14 days from March to September
  • A preparation for green plants that takes into account the desired acidic pH value is suitable
  • Alternatively, administer a fertilizer in the form of sticks with a long-term effect

Please note that mineral fertilizers should never be applied to dried substrate. The high concentration of salt could burn the tender roots. To be on the safe side, first pour a little with clear water and then add the fertilizer to the irrigation water.

To cut

One of the many beneficial attributes of a Ficus pumila is its remarkable ability to be cut. During the growing season, the plant can be cut into the desired shape at any time. Only use a freshly sharpened and meticulously disinfected cutting tool for this purpose. In order not to come into contact with the slightly toxic milky juice, we recommend wearing protective gloves. Please do not dispose of clippings in the compost where animals can get there to nibble on. Consuming even small amounts can be fatal.

hibernate

The climbing fig tirelessly thrives under normal room temperatures all year round. If the plant stayed on the partially shaded balcony during the summer, it needs to be moved behind glass as soon as the temperatures approach zero degrees. In order to use the winter as a phase of regeneration, care for the plant as follows:

  • Place in the partially shaded window seat from October to February
  • The temperatures range between 16 and 18 degrees Celsius
  • Water less and don’t fertilize
  • Continue to spray with lime-free water

This winter rest is also good for specimens that are only cultivated in the living room or conservatory. The warmer the room temperatures during the winter, the more light should be available. If in doubt, a special plant lamp compensates for the lack of light so that the compact, leafy tendrils don’t wilt and take on an unattractive shape.

repot

Although the tendrils quickly increase in length, the root ball in the pot only slowly increases in volume. As a rule, changing to a larger vessel is only necessary every 2 to 3 years. Only when root strands grow out of the opening in the ground and the pot is completely rooted does repotting become an item on the agenda of the care program. The best time is early spring, when the winter break is coming to an end. A loose mix of potting soil and ericaceous soil, enriched with a handful of lava granules, is ideal as a substrate. The new pot is a maximum of 2-4 cm larger in diameter than the previous pot. How to properly repot the climbing plant:

  • Spread the pottery shards over the water drain in the new pot for drainage
  • Fill in a layer of fresh substrate as a base for the plant
  • Use a sharp knife to loosen the root ball from the edge all around
  • Place in the middle of the new bucket and fill up with substrate

Stack the base so high that later there is a pouring edge of 1-2 cm. This way nothing can spill over when the ficus is watered. If the potted root ball is in front of you, subject it to a close inspection. Scrawny, rotten and obviously dead root strands are cut out. Only then do you put the climbing fig in the fresh soil. Using a pricking stick or a cooking spoon, press the substrate around the root ball so that no air holes form here. Finally, give the plant a sip of soft water.

Note : If the new planter is a clay pot, soak it in a bucket of water for 10 minutes beforehand. Dry clay pots withdraw a lot of water from the fresh substrate at the beginning, which increases the stress of moving for the climbing fig.

multiply

After pruning a climbing fig, experienced hobby gardeners seize the opportunity to use the clippings to breed more specimens. Head cuttings with a length of 15 cm, which are defoliated in the lower half, are perfectly suitable. This is how the propagation is successful:

  • Fill small pots with peat sand or standard soil
  • Insert one cutting so deep that the upper pair of leaves is still sticking out
  • Moisten the substrate with soft water
  • Provide each pot with a transparent hood

Set up at the semi-shady, warm window seat, your pupils are now busy rooting through the container. If you add a thin layer of nutritious compost under the poor substrate, the cuttings will work hard to get to this food source with new roots. During this time, the potting soil must neither dry out nor become completely waterlogged. A first fresh shoot on the cutting signals that the rooting is proceeding as desired. When the root system fills the container, transplant the young plant to regular soil and care for it like an adult.

pests

On a climbing ficus, the bark tends to peel off over time. This vulnerability is used by cunning scale insects to infest the plant. Since these pests know how to camouflage themselves masterfully, their appearance is often only discovered late. So check the plant regularly for dirty, sticky debris, stunted leaves and leaf spots. The tiny protective shells under which the wingless parasites are located are difficult to see with the naked eye. At the first signs, the plant should be isolated and treated as follows:

  • Rinse the tendrils repeatedly with as sharp a jet of water as possible
  • Cut off severely affected shoots and dispose of with household waste
  • Soak a soft cloth in alcohol to wipe the leaves

A proven household remedy against the plague is the classic curd soap solution. Mix 15 ml of liquid curd soap and spirit in 1 liter of soft water. Using the hand sprayer, apply the mixture to the top and bottom of the foliage every 2 days. If the life of your climbing fig is already hanging by a thread as a result of extreme infestation pressure, consistently cut off the pests from the oxygen supply. To do this, pack the plant in an airtight plastic bag for a few days. Since scale insects also depend on air, they cannot survive this drastic procedure.

Conclusion
The climbing fig is always a floral hit when an evergreen, climbing houseplant is on the design plan that requires minimal effort. On a decorative trellis, in a hanging basket or as a ground cover in the conservatory, the tropical ornamental foliage plant shows its best side in a partially shaded, warm location. If the temperatures fluctuate around 20 degrees, with a humidity of 60 percent and more, the climbing ficus creates an idyllic feel-good atmosphere. If it does not lack water and nutrients, a Ficus pumila will fulfill all expectations placed on it to the fullest satisfaction.

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