Climbing Hydrangea – Care & Propagation

As a forest plant, the Hydrangea petiolaris tolerates direct sunlight only to a limited extent. The plant prefers shady to half-shady places, which are also sheltered from the wind. The climbing hydrangea needs a slightly acidic to neutral substrate, the consistency of which is loose and rich in humus. Since hydrangeas need a lot of water, the soil must not dry out and should always be kept moist to wet. However, it is important to avoid waterlogging. Even if climbing hydrangeas hold themselves well to walls and other surfaces with their adhesive roots, climbing aids have proven to optimally support the growth of the plants. The robust climbing plant even grows under trees without any problems, the root pressure of the trees does not in the least reduce the growth of the wood.

watering & fertilizing

In order to bring out the full blooms of the climbing hydrangea, the plant needs a lot of nutrients and moisture, especially in the summer months. The soil should be water-permeable, constantly moist and rich in nutrients. Different types of fertilizers have proven their worth as nutrient supplements for the slow-growing plants. In addition to azalea and rhododendron fertilizer, you can also use a special hydrangea fertilizer. The addition of a liquid fertilizer is particularly suitable for climbing hydrangeas planted in tubs. Unless otherwise stated in the instructions, fertilize between April and August, approximately one to two weeks apart. If there is no supply of important nutrients, the plant clearly takes care of itself.

repot

Representatives of the genus Hydrangea petiolaris are extremely soil-loyal and should only be moved or repotted in exceptional cases. If you have chosen the wrong location for the plant or if you are about to move, relocating the climbing hydrangea is almost unavoidable. The best time for such a project is early autumn or late spring. The plant requires a lot of strength and water after transplanting, which is why drying out of the soil must be avoided at all costs.

• Hydrangea shoots and tendrils can be cut back to almost 50 cm beforehand so that the plant can grow without any problems.
• Then cut out the soil around the climbing hydrangea over a large area so as not to damage the roots.
• Water the root ball and the planting hole generously before the plant is used in its new location.
• To make it easier for the plant to root, we recommend a humus-rich, loose soil that must not be compacted by treading on it.
• Flowering is very unlikely in the first two years after repotting the climbing hydrangea, as the plant needs a long time to acclimatize and form new roots and shoots.

hibernate

The Hydrangea petiolaris is one of those climbing plants that are hardy and can easily survive the cold season in the garden even in containers. If you have planted the plants in pots, they should be thick-walled or you can also wrap them in a linen bag if the temperature is below zero for a long time. Only young plants have to be covered with brushwood in winter to protect them from frost damage.

The cut of the Hydrangea petiolaris

The climbing hydrangea is one of the slow-growing, perennial climbing plants. Precisely for this reason, it is not necessary to cut back tendrils and shoots in the first few years of planting. The only exception: You can remove unwanted, weak shoots immediately after flowering. This prevents unwanted spreading of the climbing tendrils. After a few years, a pruning must take place if the climbing hydrangea has reached an undesirable height or is to be rejuvenated. Dead or frozen shoots should also be removed in spring. However, it is important to note that the flowering plants of the climbing hydrangea are already formed in the previous year and must never be removed with garden shears.

multiply

Like many climbing plants and shrubs, the climbing hydrangea can best be propagated by so-called “sinkers”. Young shoots that grow close to the ground are suitable for this method. If there is no such shoot, you can also carefully tie a longer one downwards. Due to the loose contact with the soil, small aerial roots form, which, however, cannot yet absorb any nutrients from the soil itself. In order to accelerate the growth of these holding roots, it is advisable to cover the young shoots flat with humus-rich soil. During this time, the “mother plant” supplies the offshoot with the necessary water and important nutrients. As soon as new shoots appear in spring, you can separate the “cutting”.

diseases and pests

Climbing hydrangeas are easy to care for and extremely robust, provided the location has been chosen correctly and they are regularly supplied with water and nutrients. Nevertheless, these plants can also be attacked by some pests and diseases:

• A common disease among the different types of hydrangeas is chlorosis . Symptoms are yellow leaves with green veins, indicating alkaline soil or low iron levels. Rhododendron earth and peat give the plant the nutrients it needs and can help.
• Also the fungal spore species ” powdery mildew ” and the ” leaf spot fungus”.“ can cause problems for the popular climbing plant. Treatment for powdery mildew consists of removing the infected leaves and applying a fungicide. Powdery mildew is most easily recognized by the floury fungal coating on the leaves, which is whitish-grey and can be wiped off. The symptoms of the leaf spot fungus, on the other hand, can be recognized by leaf spots with a brown center. This disease is caused by high humidity and an undersupply of nutrients. In order to treat the leaf spot fungus successfully, the optimal supply of important nutrients must be guaranteed and diseased parts of the plant must be removed immediately. A wrong location or waterlogging can also trigger this fungal disease.
• Scale insects, aphids, vine weevils and spider mites can also damage the hardy hydrangea. An infestation with pests can best be recognized by signs of damage to the leaves and stems of the plant. There are several options for treating these unwelcome visitors, depending on the severity of the infestation. Biotechnical sprays have proven to be extremely efficient. But you can also rid the plant of the pests by spraying it with a harder water jet or by using undiluted nettle broth.
• Blossom and leaf discoloration could also indicate a lack of water or nitrogen. Eliminate these possibilities first before using the chemical bludgeon.

Useful care tips for climbing hydrangeas

The slow-growing climbing plant is perennial and can embellish carports, house walls and dreary gazebos with its lush leaves and striking flowers. Even if the climbing hydrangea is extremely robust and easy to care for, there are a few tricks to promote its bloom and growth, for example:

• Plants are self-climbers and hold onto the ground with adhesive roots
  • Attach climbing aids to avoid damage to the house walls
  • Trellis also supports the climbing plant
  • Wire ropes and bamboo sticks are also suitable
  • Remove unwelcome shoots that become independent in spring or autumn
• loamy, humus-rich soil retains moisture longer and supplies the plant with the minerals it needs
  • Fertilizing with coffee grounds only helps to a limited extent
  • Rhododendron and hydrangea fertilizers have proven themselves
  • Use liquid fertilizer when keeping in buckets
• Blue grain fertilizer is unsuitable and counteracts the desire for a blue coloration
• Cut as little as possible and as much as necessary
  • removing young shoots encourages the growth of the main tendrils
  • Caution: In late autumn, the plant forms flowers for the coming spring. If these are unknowingly removed, however, the full bloom will not appear in the next year.
• Cut off the umbels of flowers in late autumn and put them in a vase
  • Inflorescences are preserved for a very long time
• to preserve flowers and intensive color, the use of a glycerin-water mixture is suitable
  • Soak hydrangeas in a solution of 1 part glycerin to 2 parts water
  • Water evaporates, glycerin migrates into the flower cells and preserves them over the long term
• Drying the flowers: Cut off the flower umbels when they are fully bloomed and hang them upside down for a long time
• Hydrangea flower color can be influenced by soil pH
  • The only exception are white flowering plants, as they are not able to form the necessary dye themselves
  • for blue flowers, regular watering with rainwater and the addition of peat is recommended
  • special fertilizer with aluminum alum gives the plant the nutrients it needs and lowers the pH of the soil