Column fruit – planting, cutting and variety recommendations

Column fruit comes in all kinds in which large fruit trees are also found. Combinations of two different types in one pot, such as peach and apple, are particularly space-saving and striking at every location. Almost cut-free and therefore very easy-care varieties can be found here as a decision-making aid:

• Column cherry “Siberia” and “Helene”
• Column apple “Ballerina” and “Bolero”
• Column plum “Imperial” “Black Amber”
• Pillar pear “Saphira” and “Decora”
• Pillar peach “Aida”
• Column apricot “Goldfeuer” and “Golden Sun”
• Column nectarine “Snow Queen” and “Fantasia”

Self-fertilized or cross-pollinated?

Most column fruit trees are self-fertilizers. That means they don’t need another plant to bear fruit.

Most of the columnar fruit is only cross-pollinated with pears and cherries, but here too the type depends on the exact variety.

Whether foreign or self-fruiting – in any case it is better to cultivate at least two trees of the same species. Because even the independently fruiting varieties then have significantly higher yields.

plant

Before the column fruit can be planted, the right location must first be found. In addition, a coordinated substrate should be selected and, depending on the desired type of plant, the tub or the hollow should be prepared accordingly.

Choose the right location

The right location for the column fruit is a sunny or partially shaded place. This applies to the balcony and terrace as well as to the garden.

In addition, the planting site should be protected. If the location is sunny, but also very windy, or if the columnar fruit would be directly exposed to heavy rain, this can significantly reduce the yield. And a defenseless location would also have a lasting impact on the growth of the plant.

The third factor to consider is the size of the tree. Of course this is narrow and compact, but some varieties can reach a height of three or four meters. They then also have the appropriate diameter. Moving in the bucket is not a problem, but moving in the garden would be unnecessarily time-consuming.

Substrate

Column fruit needs loose, nutrient-rich soil that can store water well. The easiest choice for this is a high quality pot substrate with a high level of pre-fertilization.

Alternatively, high-quality, commercially available potting soil can be mixed in roughly equal parts with well-rotted compost and simple garden soil.

Planting in the tub If the column fruit is to be placed on the balcony or terrace, the tub itself is crucial in addition to the location and substrate. This should be as big as possible. The minimum volume is 20 liters. However, 40 liters would be optimal.
On the one hand, larger vessels offer greater stability. On the other hand, they make frequent repositioning unnecessary.
In addition, the bucket should have a good drainage point, otherwise dangerous waterlogging can occur.
After planting, the plant should be washed.Plant them in the garden
is planted in the garden, the pillars fruit, must be a corresponding Kuhle prepared. This should be about three times as large in diameter as the root ball of the plant. The depth should be twice the height of the root ball.
The pot substrate or the specially prepared soil mixture is filled in to cover the ground before the column fruit is placed in the hollow. After insertion, the remaining space is filled with substrate and this is then pounded into place. The remaining soil can be used to fill an edge around the planting hollow. This later enables economical and targeted pouring.

If several column fruit trees are planted, a minimum distance of 50 cm should be maintained. This also applies if the column fruit is used as a hedge or privacy screen. Instead of planting closer together in one line, the individual small trees can be planted in a staggered manner – that is, in a zigzag. This makes harvesting and care easier and ensures that sufficient nutrients are available for each crop.

Here, too, each plant is then abundantly watered again.

When inserting into the hollow or the bucket, make sure that the refined area is above the ground. If this is exposed to constant moisture, rot can develop. The said point can be recognized by a clear thickening and a mostly bulging scar on the lower trunk of the columnar fruit.

maintenance

As already mentioned, the care of the column fruit is a little more complex than that of the large fruit trees. Usually this mostly relates to the waste. In the case of the almost cut-free varieties mentioned above, however, it only applies if the culture takes place in a bucket or the plant is still very young. Because here regular watering and fertilization are necessary. In addition, there is occasional blending and repotting.

pour

If the column fruit was planted freely in the garden, regular watering is only necessary in the first year and if the drought persists. Apart from these exceptions, normal rainfall is sufficient for supply.
Different in the bucket. Here, too, should be watered abundantly in the first time after planting and after repotting. But even if the location is not covered, average rain is usually not enough here. It is better to water regularly.

Notes on watering the column fruit:

• Use soft water that is as low in lime as possible – collected rainwater is ideal
• Meticulous, evenly moisturizing is not necessary
• If watering was carried out in a floating manner, the surface of the substrate should dry slightly before the next watering
• Avoid waterlogging and complete drying out

fertilization

So that the column fruit has a rich yield, it must be fertilized regularly. Natural fertilizers such as manure and compost are unfortunately not enough to meet the high nutrient requirements, especially when cultivated in the bucket.
It is better to use slow release fertilizers for this. This is administered once a year. Spring should be chosen as the time when the first leaves on the columnar fruit are already showing. Because the shoot signals that the plant is ready to take again. A fertilizer with a high nitrogen concentration is best.

In preparation for the resting phase in winter, a second fertilization should be carried out. Late summer is ideal for this. Instead of a large amount of nitrogen, potassium is now important. This nutrient provides better frost protection, which is especially important for columnar fruit that is freely planted in the garden.

Apart from these two additional nutrients, no further fertilization is necessary.

Use special means for fruit trees for fertilization.

To cut

The cutting of the columnar fruit is an important factor in maintenance and should be done regularly, because the compact trees do not tolerate radical interventions very well.

However, great effort does not have to be made here, especially not with columnar apples and the almost cut-free varieties that were mentioned above.

It is only necessary to shorten unwanted shoots that protrude strongly and conspicuously from the trunk. This is best done as soon as possible. So there is no need to schedule a special season. This prevents the column fruit from investing an unnecessarily large amount of energy and nutrients in the shoots.

The thinning

The column fruit does not necessarily have to be thinned out. However, this measure is recommended after a particularly profitable year. As a result, the plants usually lack the strength to develop numerous fruits again and to bear them until they are fully ripe. Usually a lot of unripe fruit is thrown off at this point.

In this case, it is better to remove the least developed unripe fruits early on. As a result, the column fruit is able to carry the remaining fruit to the end. A pleasant side effect of this measure is the size of the fruit. This increases significantly the smaller the number of fruits.

Repotting and repotting

In the case of columnar fruit planted freely in the garden, repositioning is only necessary if the location proves to be unsuitable. Otherwise, the described doses of additional nutrients are completely sufficient. The situation is different with the column fruit in the bucket. This should be repotted every four to six years. After this time, the substrate is mostly used up. It is advisable to fill up the bucket with fresh earth between the complete earth changes.

wintering

Column fruit is generally hardy. This applies both to plants that stand free in the garden and to specimens in pots. However, frost can severely affect columnar fruit and reduce the yield. A sheltered wintering is therefore sensible in any case.

Wintering in a bucket
There are two variants available for wintering columnar fruit. The plant can optionally remain in its usual location all year round and be protected there accordingly. Alternatively, it can be placed in a frost-free interior.

Garden fleece and bamboo mats, which are wrapped in several layers around the trunk and the bucket, are recommended as protection. Suitable earth coverings are straw, manure and leaves.

If the column fruit is to overwinter indoors, a light and frost-free room must be selected. Such as a largely unheated winter garden or a well-insulated basement room.

After the last frost, the column fruit can be taken outside again in spring, or the winter protection removed.

Frost-protected hibernation in the garden Column fruit
that has been planted in the garden should also be protected. Garden fleece, bamboo mats, straw, leaves and manure are also suitable for this.

If the location is exposed to very strong weather conditions or the winter is very long and hard, foil and boards can also be used.

Typical diseases and pests of column fruit

The pests and diseases to which column fruit is typically susceptible depends primarily on the variety in question. Column apples, for example, potentially attract powdery mildew, while columnar pears suffer more often from pear rust.
There are no really typical pests and diseases in column fruit.

For this reason, it is necessary to regularly examine the plant for changes. Discoloration, scuff marks, coverings, a noticeable number of falling leaves and unripe fruits, dried up or withered leaves – all these symptoms indicate an infestation.

As a first measure, an appropriate plant protection product should be used. If this has been applied, the infected parts of the plant must first be removed and then destroyed. Under no circumstances should the cut leaves, fruits and twigs end up on the compost. Here they would become the source of renewed contagion.

Conclusion
Column fruit is not only a great alternative to the normal fruit tree when there is little space available. If properly cared for, they are also high-yielding plants that can also serve as eye-catchers. This applies to both the planting in the garden and the location on the balcony.