Cherry laurel challenges the gardener with stunning growth coupled with a sweeping silhouette. So that the evergreen ornamental tree does not dominate in the garden, regular pruning must not be put off. Among gardeners, cherry laurel is considered a botanical warhorse that likes to crowd out neighboring plants. So that the cut does justice to the individual attributes of the hardy rose plant, the timing of the care measure plays a central role. The following instructions would like to introduce you to the topic of ‘cutting cherry laurels’ in a practical way – and in a nutshell.
Table of Contents
Key points for the shape and maintenance cut
- Growth height without pruning up to 700 cm
- Average growth width of up to 300 cm
- Annual growth 10 cm to 50 cm
- Flowering time from April to June
- Green, later black cherries in autumn
- Laurel-like leaves from 8 to 15 cm long
- Highly frequented nesting site for birds
- Cherry laurel is poisonous in all parts
Choose the time flexibly
In contrast to other ornamental shrubs in the garden, the period for a shape and maintenance cut extends over 5 to 6 months. This circumstance offers plenty of scope for choosing the preferred time. The time span is determined by the following factors:
- Pruning cherry laurel makes sense from February to August
- In the case of frost damage, cut shortly before the shoots begin
- Optionally cut the vigorously growing shrub twice in spring and late summer
- Minor corrections are not tied to a fixed point in time
If the primary focus of the pruning measures is to maintain and promote decorative flowering, the time window for the optimal time is reduced to the phase immediately after flowering. A single cut is usually sufficient in this case. If you prefer a double pass, cut the cherry laurel in early spring and again in early/mid-August. No pruning is recommended later in the year, from a visual point of view. If an electric hedge trimmer is used, it often cuts the beautiful leaves. In August, the cherry laurel will sprout again and cover up this collateral damage, preserving the decorative appearance throughout the winter. This shoot still has enough time to mature before winter and to withstand the frost.
On the specified date, the current weather conditions are the decisive factor for the start of the work:
- The weather is dry, windless and overcast
- Under no circumstances should it freeze
preparatory work and working materials
Before getting started, there are a few details to take care of in advance. Nothing is more annoying than having to interrupt the flow of work because something is missing.
- Sharpen, lubricate and disinfect the hedge trimmer
- Check the functionality of the electric cutting tool
- Provide stepladders for hard-to-reach places
- Put on protective clothing, including gloves and goggles
Hedge trimming instructions
Cherry laurel as a hedge plant makes somewhat more complex demands on the cut than in a solitary position. Thanks to the frugal pruning tolerance, the hobby gardener can steer the habit of the hedge in the desired direction with the help of the following instructions:
Shape and maintenance cut
This is the central cutting measure around which all further corrective measures in the course of the year are based. The primary goal of the cut is that light and air reach all regions of the hedge again. This works particularly effectively if each cherry laurel is given a suggestively trapezoidal contour.
- Starting from a broad base, the laurel hedge tapers towards the top
- Stretched cords or a wooden frame serve as orientation
- Rounded corners increase the amount of light that gets inside the hedge
The cut in detail
Electric or petrol-powered hedge trimmers are only recommended if you have a large area to work on. In this case, the temporal aspect outweighs all aesthetic arguments. As long as you can set it up somehow, using a manual hedge trimmer makes sense. The long sword of a pair of electric shears inevitably leaves a sea of torn bay leaves in its wake, which is not to be feared with the controlled handling of garden shears.
- Guide the electric hedge trimmer parallel to the bush, from the tip downwards
- Shorten long shoots by a third to a maximum of half
- Cutting back this year’s new shoots by 50% encourages bushy growth
- Start each cut 3-5 mm above an outward-facing bud
- A slight incline allows rainwater to run off the cut better
It is worth stepping back a few steps repeatedly during the work. The silhouette can be better evaluated from a distance. There is also the possibility of correcting imminent cutting errors in good time.
Don’t miss out
So that every cherry laurel can breathe again, it is thoroughly thinned out after the winter. All deadwood is removed and frozen, diseased branches are cut off at the base. If you recognize branches that are crossing and rubbing against each other, these must also give way. Shoots that grow inwards spoil the appearance and hinder other branches.
This is how the hedge becomes straight
Less high demands are placed on the lines of a hedge made of cherry laurel than on a boxwood or thuja hedge; Regardless, no one wants a crooked privacy hedge around them. A good sense of proportion alone is rarely enough, especially with long hedges. As already mentioned, strings or a wooden frame serve as effective guides. Here’s how to do it:
The cord solution
- The wooden sticks are 50 cm longer than the desired cutting height
- Stick a stick into the ground to the right and left of the hedge
- Mark the increasing height in stages along the bars
Cords are stretched between the marks and used as a guide. During cutting, care must be taken not to cut through the cords.
The wooden frame solution
- Nail simple wooden slats to form a rectangle
- The side length corresponds to the hedge height
- Place immediately in front of the hedge and cut loose
If you invest once in the impregnation of the slats, the wooden frame is available again next year. Until then, simply store it in the garage or behind the garden shed.
taper cut
Under certain circumstances, a radical rejuvenation cut (sitting on the stick) is unavoidable. The cherry laurel can be diseased or a shape and maintenance cut has been neglected for years. Instead of disposing of the shapely ornamental tree, it is worth the effort of a rejuvenation cut. The plant also tolerates a cut into the old wood. It will sprout again if at least 1 bud per main shoot remains on the bush.
It is important to note that this radical measure is not allowed between March 1st and September 30th. This rule was laid down in the Federal Nature Conservation Act to protect nesting birds.
Instructions for pruning as a solitaire
Cherry laurel proves its decorative talent not only as a hedge plant. In the tub or as a spectacular solitaire in the bed, the ornamental tree also shows itself from its best side. As long as there is no lack of space, the annual maintenance cut is limited to careful thinning. If the cherry laurel dominates the scene too much, cut back shoots that are too long immediately after flowering. Avoid timidly snipping at the tips of the shoots, as this could encourage a puny broom shoot. A bold approach is better. If you shorten this year’s new shoots by half, the ornamental shrub will reward you with an even bushier, compact habit.
Dwarf varieties in tubs occupy a special position. They show less pronounced growth, so annual topiary is rarely appropriate. Nevertheless, you should not do without the thinning.
Suitable varieties for hedge planting
Not every cherry laurel is suitable for use as a hedge plant. In order to keep the pruning work within manageable limits, the extra strong-growing varieties should not be considered. These are much better recommended than imposing solitaires. The following cherry laurel varieties have proven themselves as hedge plants:
Prunus laurocerasus ‘Caucasica’
Probably the most frost hardy variety with extra large leaves up to 15 cm long and a proud, upright habit.
- Growth height 300 cm
- Width 80cm to 120cm
- Growth per year 15 cm to 40 cm
Prunus laurocerasus ‘Herbergii’ Top of
the class and the hedge laurels. The growth form is reminiscent of a dense cone, which looks extremely decorative.
- Growth height 250 cm
- Width 150cm
- Growth per year 20 cm to 40 cm
Prunus laurocerasus ‘Leander’
A frequently planted hedge laurel with good winter hardiness and medium growth. Uncut, this variety grows more in width than in height.
- Growth height 150 cm
- Width 300cm
- Growth per year 20 cm to 40 cm
Prunus laurocerasus ‘Novita’
This variety scores with a remarkable resistance to diseases. At the same time, it impresses with a taut, upright habit and elegant, dark green leaves.
- Growth height 300 cm
- Width 200cm
- Growth per year 30 cm to 50 cm
Prunus laurocerasus ‘Otto Luyken’
Nothing upsets him so easily. An ‘Otto Luyken’ tolerates drought, shade and a lot of root pressure from large neighboring trees. At the same time, it proves to be relatively slow-growing, so that a single pruning per season is completely sufficient.
- Growth height 150 cm
- Width 300cm
- Growth per year 15 cm to 40 cm
Prunus laurocerasus ‘Schipakensis’
This variety is characterized by its robust winter hardiness and restrained growth rate. In addition, the pretty flowers in showy racemes catch the eye in spring.
- Growth height 300 cm
- Width 300cm
- Growth per year 20 cm to 30 cm
Prunus laurocerasus ‘Piri’ – dwarf
laurel cherry The ideal variety for the small garden as well as the tub culture. With its dark green, glossy foliage, ‘Piri’ also makes a tasteful border for beds.
- Growth height up to 100 cm
- Width up to 130 cm
- Growth per year 5 cm to 15 cm
Prunus laurocerasus ‘Schipakensis Macrophylla’
With a little luck, the cherry laurel will bloom twice, accompanied by particularly large, stylish, slightly serrated leaves. However, it grows comparatively strong, so that it is just acceptable as a hedge plant.
- Growth height 300 cm
- Width 300cm
- Growth per year 20 cm to 50 cm
Conclusion
When you cut the cherry laurel depends on how the ornamental shrub has survived the winter and what goal you are pursuing with the cut. An ideal time is after flowering until June. Then the laurel cherry has enough time to develop the blossoming approaches for the next year. Minor corrections can be made throughout the year without any problems. Pruning back in early spring may mean that the next bloom will fail. An excellent appearance will be obtained if you carry out the work with a manual hedge trimmer. If you cultivate a cherry laurel as a solitaire, pruning is limited to regular thinning, provided there is no lack of space.