Bonsai is Japanese and literally means “tree in a bowl”. We basically differentiate between bonsai that can remain outdoors all year round and those that have to be overwintered frost-free. All native trees and shrubs can survive outside, even in bonsai format. Even crops that come from cold climates, no matter where in the world, stay out. Indoor bonsai, on the other hand, come from tropical or subtropical climate zones. They are treated like houseplants. However, most of them can go outdoors during the summer. However, hibernation is often a problem. Native trees are much easier to care for.
Table of Contents
claims to care
Bonsai are special plants with very different requirements. But today it’s all about the cut. This chapter is long enough. The cut is one of the most important tasks when dealing with a bonsai. It is used for shaping and preservation. A bonsai must always show its basic structure well and must not be too dense. All branch structures must be visible, as must the course of the trunk. Branches, new shoots, leaves and roots are cut. Whoever forms and trains a tree from the beginning also cuts down the trunk. This can also be cut later, for example to give it a new direction of growth.
Of course there is a difference whether you buy a bonsai and then just want to keep it in shape, or whether you first “make” a bonsai from a blank. We are assuming here that it is already a bonsai and that we are only pruning it regularly, ie performing a bonsai pruning to maintain the shape.
Why is a bonsai pruned?
There are numerous reasons why a bonsai should be pruned. You cut the trunk, the branches, the leaves and also the root. There are different motives for everyone.
tribe
- Grown too evenly
- Unsightly thickenings on the trunk
- injuries
- If a new trunk history is to be built
branches
- For the basic design
- For good and fine branching
- For thinning
- For harmonious growth
- To control faulty shoots
- topiary
Laub
- In order to achieve a new growth
- To encourage the growth of a branch
- For better fine branching
- topiary
root
To curb the growth of the wood
tools
The prerequisite for a good cut is a suitable tool. Special bonsai scissors or tongs are best. If you use other tools, there is a risk that the branches will be crushed or that the cut will not be made cleanly. The best tool for bonsai pruning comes from Japan. Although the Chinese offers are significantly cheaper, the quality is not comparable either. Here the higher investment is worthwhile. Japanese tools are sharp, stay sharp, last practically forever and are easy to use. There is no bruising when cutting.
- For the leaf cut – the leaf scissors or medium-sized bonsai scissors
- Small to medium branches – medium to large bonsai scissors
- Shorten trunk – concave pliers
- Bulging into a large cut (for better healing) – Bud Forceps
- For large bonsai – pruning saw or even electric tools
ground rules
- alternating arrangement of the branches
- must not face each other
- if so, remove one of them
- Remove all branches growing inwards towards the crown
- Branches that cross, remove one
- Remove branches that are too thin directly from the trunk, right at the base
- only an exception if you need a branch right there
- Reduce branch whorls to just two branches
- But they must not face each other
- Treat all interfaces with wound closure agents
- cut only when the plants are dormant, i.e. in winter, only in frost-free weather
- Carry out small pruning measures all year round (thin branches)
- Remove branches directly from the trunk, ideally with a slightly hollow cut
- Cut strong shoots at an angle, always immediately above a bud
- Cut off weak shoots at right angles to the direction of growth
cut
In addition to training, pruning is an important part of bonsai culture. There are several ways in which such a tree should be designed. Most value is placed on a thick trunk that is well branched. With a purchased specimen, this is usually already well developed and then with bonsai it is mostly about preserving the character. One devotes oneself to the subtleties, so to speak. I assume here that the bonsai is not cultivated itself. Few have that much patience, it takes years.
When and how to cut depends on the tree species and the state of health of the sapling.
When the trunk is of sufficient thickness, work is done on the branches. The main branches should also be strong. There are a number of things you can do to achieve branch thickening.
branch cut
The main branches are allowed to grow until the trunk is thick enough. The end of the branch doesn’t have to be so strong, because that’s where the cut is made. Once the thickness is reached, cut the branch to the desired length. The planned new growth must be taken into account. After this cut, you often still have to direct the branches in the desired direction or shape, but that is another chapter.
When the branches have reached their thickness and you want to stop the growth in thickness, you can cut the branch a bit or you can pinch the buds or needles or trim them. When the branch puts its strength into forming new buds, it has none left to further thicken the branch. In this way, a finer branching is often achieved.
Cutting new shoots – topiary
At the beginning of budding in spring, it is necessary to repeatedly shorten growing new shoots. In this way, the shape of the bonsai is preserved. To do this, the shoots are first allowed to grow to about 6 to 8 leaves and then cut back to 1 or 2 leaves. You have to do this with every drive. It always depends on how fast you want a bonsai to grow in size. Depending on how much you need to cut. If you cut quite a lot, you get a full and squat crown as a result. If, on the other hand, you shorten a little, the tree can become too bare and does not look harmonious. It is therefore usually cheaper not to be squeamish and to cut vigorously, just not wildly. New shoots grow from the remaining leaf axils.
Things are a little different with needle bonsai. Here the shoots are pruned in the spring before the needles appear. The drive candles are shortened to 1/3. This reduces length growth. In addition, branching is stimulated. If new drive candles then form, these must also be shortened. If you don’t cut, long branches will form and destroy the overall picture. If you cut away the entire shoot candles, growth in length is prevented and the branches branch well.
If you cut deeper into the older wood, the branch will usually no longer sprout. Coniferous trees, with a few exceptions, sprout reluctantly or not from old wood.
leaf cut
A bonsai can be designed well by pruning the leaves. It is important that the leaf size always matches the tree size. Older trees in nature also have larger leaves than young ones. Bonsai also age and develop larger foliage. But the tree itself is small. Both parts don’t really fit together anymore. Therefore, the leaves are cut off completely at the end of May to the beginning of June. Then they are really mature. Alternatively, it is also sufficient to remove the largest leaves. After about 4 weeks the new leaves have already grown back. But they are smaller and usually more numerous. Needles can also be cut in this way, but only in exceptional cases (exhibition or similar).
If the leaves have stalks, leave them on the branches. Leaves without a stem are removed directly on the branch. It is important not to cut the leaves too often. Also, not all trees are suitable for this rather radical measure. Young trees should not be treated like this!
root cutting
Root pruning is important to keep the tree small (growth is restricted) and to keep the root and crown in harmonious balance, as is the case with a tree that has grown naturally. In addition, the root would be crushed in the small bonsai pot, parts would die off, which would have far-reaching consequences for the entire tree.
Young bonsai are repotted and cut annually. Older trees often remain uncut for years. You have to keep an eye out for when it’s time again.
Pruning is done when the bonsai is to be repotted anyway. Shake off the soil and unravel the root network, preferably with a root claw. Then the root is carefully cut back so that crown and root are in balance again. Usually the root is shortened by 1/3 to half. Some root tips must remain. They are important for water absorption. When cutting, all dead roots must be removed. They can be recognized by their very dark, almost black color.
When a bonsai is grown, root pruning is more complicated and labor intensive. However, we are assuming an existing example here.
Conclusion
Raising and cultivating a bonsai is a nice hobby. Prerequisites are: a “little” time, a steady hand, the ideal wood, confidence in your own abilities, good tools, suitable accessories and good care instructions or someone who can give you tips and tricks. It’s not as easy as many think, but it’s also not so difficult that you can’t believe it. If you are serious about growing bonsai, you have to choose a good tree. They are not available in the supermarket, discounter or hardware store. These are usually raised quickly and usually only survive one season. They are enough for a beginner to practice, but otherwise they are not suitable. You should go to a specialist dealer. Even if the trees are more expensive, they are worth it and the tips and help are priceless anyway. So, don’t save at the wrong end here.
