Ficus Ginseng – care, pouring and cutting

So that the Ficus Ginseng develops a strong trunk with many branches and shiny, lush green leaves, the following care instructions should be observed:

• Ficus Ginseng prefer a bright location.
• Direct sunlight is harmful to the plant.
• The ideal temperature is between 18 ° and 22 ° Celsius.
• Avoid drafts at all costs.
• Choose a coarse-grained, well-drained substrate.
• Mixture of clay, sand and pricking soil or bonsai soil.
• Cover the water drainage hole with drainage.
• Only water moderately when the surface of the substrate is dry.
• Change the earth at least once a year.
• Apply liquid fertilizer every 14 days.

There is nothing wrong with putting the Ficus Ginseng on the balcony or terrace in summer. In this case, it is advisable to acclimate the tree gradually. Sunburn can result if the leaves are exposed to the sun without warning. If the outside temperature falls below 15 ° Celsius, the ficus ginseng is brought back inside the house.

pour

In addition to the choice of location, the well-dosed administration of irrigation water plays an important role in the care of the Ficus Ginseng. Ordinary tap water is usually too hard, so that salt crusts form in the bonsai or flower pot. Collected rainwater is more suitable because it is almost free of salt. Where rainwater is not available, stale tap water is used for watering. It takes a little finesse to choose the right time for watering.

The thumb test is used to determine whether the surface of the earth is dry. If this is the case, only enough water is given that no waterlogging occurs. In summer this may well be necessary every 2 days. During this time it is also advisable to spray the Ficus Ginseng regularly with lime-free water in order to increase the humidity. During the growth phase, the bonsai receives a dose of liquid fertilizer every 14 days with the irrigation water. Special bonsai fertilizers are offered in specialist shops, but numerous experienced hobby gardeners also report good experiences with conventional liquid fertilizers.

Cutting as a bonsai

Thanks to the pronounced cut tolerance, it is easily possible to bring the ficus ginseng into the desired shape. As long as the plant is still in the development phase, the long shoots where a thick branch is to be created are initially not cut. Scissors are used at an early stage where the most abundant branching is to be achieved, such as in the crown. Branches showing the 5th leaf are then shortened to 1 or 2 leaves. Ideally, the cut is made 3 mm above the node, the eye, which is the branch on which the leaf grows. A regular cut is indispensable for a Ficus Ginseng as a bonsai, because otherwise it will no longer sprout from the old wood and the leaves will only thrive at the tips of the shoots. Dead branches are removed immediately. If the pruning of a thick branch is intended, this measure should be carried out in winter during the growth break so that the tree does not ‘bleed out’ due to the outflow of the sap.

Cut than a conventional houseplant

Ficus also present themselves in their normal form as extremely decorative houseplants. In principle, they do not need pruning if there is enough space for them to develop. Only the dead branches and shoots are removed. However, if the Ficus Ginseng takes on a shape that is too bulky and large, it is thinned out and shortened if necessary. If necessary, you can also cut into the old wood. Larger cuts are treated with wood ash or a special wound closure agent. The best season for pruning is spring. Since the leaking plant sap can irritate the skin, the experienced hobby gardener wears gloves when working and covers the soil in the immediate vicinity of the plant.

This helps if he loses leaves

It can be very frustrating when the lovingly cared for Ficus Ginseng sheds its leaves without warning. The possible causes of this growth disorder and the corresponding countermeasures are discussed below:

Too cool location
The plant is placed in a place that is around 20 ° Celsius. Do not cut immediately after changing location, because it has to get used to it.

Root ball that is too dry
The ficus needs a certain basic moisture for healthy growth. If this is not the case, the leaves fall off. Experienced hobby gardeners dig a finger about 5 cm deep into the substrate to determine whether the root ball has dried out. In this case, pour carefully without drowning the ficus.

Waterlogging
If the roots of the ficus are permanently in the water, it sheds its leaves. Too much dryness is just as harmful as too much moisture. A permeable substrate and a water drainage hole with a drainage made of lavalite or expanded clay have a preventive effect.

Lack of light
If the leaves fall out of the middle of the canopy, but the outer leaves are getting bigger and bigger, a lack of light becomes noticeable in this way. A change of location to a brighter place, which is not exposed to direct sunlight, solves the problem.

Nutrient deficiency
Especially when the Ficus Ginseng is cultivated as a bonsai, the nutrients in the small planter are used up very quickly. If the plant is not supplied with an organic or mineral fertilizer every 14 days, it will shed its leaves.

Dry heating air
As a rule, Ficus Ginseng can withstand dry heating air during the cold season without any problems. Young plants sometimes react a bit sensitive to the dry heating air, especially when they are on the window sill directly above the radiator. They then signal their discomfort by shedding their leaves. A change of location is absolutely necessary in this case.

Drafts
Since drafts in the room are always associated with temperature fluctuations, this is one of the main causes of leaf loss. The window does not have to be tilted at all; it is enough that it leaks slightly and therefore lets in cool outside air for the sensitive ficus to shed its leaves.

Cold from below
Just as the Ficus on the window sill cannot tolerate dry heating air from below, it can cope with it when it is on the cold tiled floor. To prevent the leaves from being thrown off, the planter or bonsai pot is placed on a wooden block or a plant stand.

How to wire a Ficus Ginseng as a bonsai

The ficus naturally strives to grow tall. However, that would mean that the desired, delicate and small growth form as a bonsai would be gone. In order to get the plant into the desired shape, the experts advise to wire it in early spring. The twigs and branches still need to be pliable and just a little woody. The wire is loosely attached at a 45 ° angle from the thick end towards the thin end. Buds and leaves must not be injured and the wire must never cut into the branch. Wires made of aluminum or copper, which are a third of the thickness of the branch wrapped around, are best. The wire remains on the plant for a maximum of 4 to 6 weeks. If it becomes apparent beforehand that it threatens to grow into the bark, it is immediately carefully unwound with the wire cutters.

Multiply

The Ficus Ginseng can easily be propagated with the help of cuttings. Suitable shoots are as young and strong as possible. Except for two opposite pairs of leaves, all leaves are removed from the cutting. The remaining leaves are cut in half so that the cutting uses as little energy as possible to supply it. Prepared in this way, the cutting is placed in a nutrient-poor substrate because the roots are encouraged to spread quickly in search of food. A transparent film with several small air holes is stretched over the cultivation vessel. This measure supports a warm, humid and thus growth-promoting climate without mold forming. The potting soil is kept slightly moist for the following weeks. If enough young roots have developed, they can be repotted in a larger container that is filled with bonsai soil or another permeable substrate. From then on, the young ficus is treated like an adult plant and can be directed into the desired shape right from the start.

Repot

Depending on the rate of growth and the condition of the Ficus Ginseng, it is necessary to repot it either annually or at least every 2 to 3 years. After a pest infestation, for example by aphids or scale insects, replacing the substrate ensures that any eggs that may have been laid are also eliminated. If the roots of the Ficus Ginseng push up through the surface, this is the signal that the previous plant pot has become too narrow. The following information is important when repotting:

• The new planter has a water drainage hole.
• Spread drainage from potsherds or pumice gravel.
• Mix the substrate with 1/3 Akadama soil.
• Examine the roots after potting.
• If necessary, trim the roots.
• Rinse roots with water.
• Release a pouring margin.
• Water well after repotting.

Especially with older ficus ginseng, which are grown as bonsai, a third of Akada soil is added to the substrate because it is a mineral granulate that is obtained from volcanic ash, among other things. Since the larger the size, especially with bonsai, there is less and less space available for the roots to develop, a more intensive application of fertilizer is necessary. However, this harbors the risk of salination and root rot. The use of the purely mineral Akadama earth compensates for this shortcoming, because more water can be stored due to the porous structure.

Popular houseplant with a pronounced talent for attractive bonsai
You can now find Ficus Ginseng on every corner, even in the supermarket. It is not only beautiful to look at with its slightly shiny, deep green leaves and numerous branches; the Ficus is also inexpensive to purchase and not particularly expensive to maintain. One of its outstanding advantages is that it can be cultivated as a bonsai, whereby even beginners among hobby gardeners have good prospects of successful breeding. However, a sound basic knowledge is essential so that the Ficus Ginseng feels good and thrives splendidly. Its requirements in terms of location and water supply are a bit tricky. Anyone who invests the time to familiarize themselves with the most important care conditions