Fighting aphids – ways and means against lice

Aphids prick the plant’s pathways and suck out the nutrient-rich sap. The plant is weakened and is therefore more susceptible to disease. In addition, aphids can transmit viral diseases to plants with their saliva. They usually appear suddenly and epidemic-like. They often disappear quickly. Sometimes, however, they spread and keep growing. Then good advice is expensive. So what to do

Causes and Reasons of Lice

There are no real reasons or causes for aphids. The pests also have their raison d’etre. In principle, they’re not that much of a problem either. Worst of all, they transmit numerous viral diseases that can damage plants to the point that they die.

  • There are always aphids in the wild.
  • In the fall, eggs are laid on plants. The young aphids start multiplying immediately in spring.
  • Aphids can spread because there are winged specimens. In this way, the pests get everywhere, including apartments and houses.
  • The winged specimens are all female in spring. They form the wings specially to be able to populate other plants. No pairing is necessary for this. Now no eggs are laid, but living young are born. Winged aphids of both sexes are not born until autumn.
  • Certain weather conditions favor the massive spread of aphids. Especially in humid and warm weather there is a mass increase.
  • A new generation of aphids develops within just a week.

First step: biological aphid control

Of course, it is ideal if the natural predators take over the removal of the aphids. Ladybirds, lacewings and hoverflies are overwhelmed by millions of these small pests. They too now have to multiply quickly. That takes time, which is why you cannot see any improvement at first. Successes occur somewhat delayed. To keep aphid fighters in the garden, they should cultivate suitable plants and set up insect hotels. The beneficial insects can also be conveniently ordered on the Internet. The Neudorff order set “Beneficial against harmful insects” is available from Amazon, among others.

  • Aphids can also be rinsed off with a good stream of water. That already brings an improvement.
  • Infested shoots can also be cut off and disposed of.
  • Yellow stickers catch flying aphids, but unfortunately they make no distinction between harmful and beneficial insects.
  • You can also just crush the lice. It’s best to put on gloves and get to work. So the animals can already be decimated properly.
  • Nettle stock against aphids helps quite reliably, but it also smells pretty bad. It’s easy to manufacture. You use a few hundred grams of nettles and soak them in a bucket of water. This now has to pull for at least 24 hours. The brew is sprayed onto the infected plants.
  • Plants infested by aphids can also be sprayed with a water-washing-up liquid solution. Often the process has to be repeated. It is important that the soap solution does not penetrate the soil. It is best to cover it up beforehand.
  • A tobacco brew is also suitable. The remains of cigarettes are boiled until a brown broth is formed. Strain the brew and spray over the plant. Caution, do not use on fruit and vegetables!
  • Oil-based aphid sprays are also used. Neem or rapeseed oil is mostly used.
  • Houseplants can be immersed in water for 24 hours. However, no part of the plant may look out of the water.

Chemical control

The chemical club should only be used in an emergency. Chemistry usually proves to be extremely effective, but it is not always particularly environmentally friendly. Anyone who has children or pets should rather refrain from using the funds. It is also the case that beneficial insects that eat aphids are also decimated. In the long term, more pests will remain and the beneficial insects will disappear. They are either killed or migrate due to a lack of food. Either way, it’s not cheap.

Systemic agents that penetrate or are absorbed by the plant are particularly effective. If the aphids suck up the sap, they take the toxins with them and die.

  • It is fought against infestation, not preventively. The weather must be stable (no rain). It is best to spray in the morning or in the evening, not in the wind and not in the sun!
  • The protection lasts for several weeks. As long as the plants are protected against resettlement.
  • It is important that the manufacturer’s information is taken into account so that nobody is harmed!
  • It is ideal if the products are not effective against beneficial insects. Otherwise, do not spray near flowering plants, otherwise bees and other beneficial insects can also absorb the substances.
  • Do not use chemical agents on fruit, vegetables and herbs!

BI 58 is a very reliable remedy against aphids, but should be used with caution!
Lizetan is also often recommended. There are combi sticks, sprays and other products. A distinction is made between products for use in rooms, greenhouses and winter gardens.The combination preparation Compo Axoris insect-free is suitable for potted and container plants. In addition to the systemic thiamethoxam, the sticks also contain a fertilizer.

Prevention of lice

One cannot completely prevent the aphid infestation. In any case, healthy, strong plants get along better with the pests. It is also important that enough beneficial insects have settled in the garden to take over the aphid elimination. Ladybugs, earwigs, lacewings, parasitic wasps and others are hard-working helpers.

  • It is important to avoid dry air. A high level of humidity prevents the lice from spreading massively.
  • Use plant strengtheners, e.g. field horsetail or nettle stock.
  • Dispose of harvest residues in autumn! Eggs could stick to it.
  • Cut back trees in spring! The new population sits on them, so part of it will be removed in a moment.
  • Eggs can be killed by spraying something that contains rapeseed oil.
  • In order to limit the spread, do not fertilize with too much nitrogen! Blue grain in particular in too high a dosage can make plants susceptible to diseases and pests.

Adequate ventilation is important for indoor plants!

Plants susceptible to aphids

Unfortunately, many aphids can be found on the ever-popular roses. But also the false jasmine, hibiscus, red currant, all types of snowball and elder are often attacked. Petunias, margarites, nasturtiums and fuchsias are particularly afflicted in window boxes. In the garden, it is often the fruit trees, especially during the flowering period and when budding.

In any case, the pests spread far more vigorously on weakened plants than on healthy ones. So you always have to do something to strengthen the plant. In addition, it makes sense to put plants that do not like lice next to susceptible plants, although this is not a reliable protection. It is recommended to put lavender between the roses, this would prevent the aphids from settling. From my own experience I can say that this is not entirely true. I still had lice on the roses, although not very many.

Tips against aphids

  • Check regularly for infestation!
  • Use plant strengtheners!
  • Do not use too much nitrogen fertilizer!
  • Repeat the application frequently for home remedies to increase effectiveness!
  • In the case of chemical control, use systemic agents and be sure to take the manufacturer’s instructions into account!
  • Chemical agents endanger and often harm beneficial organisms!
  • Do not use insecticides on crops such as fruits, vegetables and herbs!
  • In the long term, insecticides favor aphids.

Conclusion
Aphids are an annoying plague, but usually not so dangerous that they have to be exterminated. Often it is enough if you support their natural fines and these then take over the removal of the pests. If someone absolutely cannot live with the pests and all home remedies or biological control agents fail, the chemical club is left as a remedy. However, this should be used with care and really only in an emergency. Other insects and birds can be harmed and the agents are often not entirely safe for humans and pets. It is important that you follow the instructions for use exactly and protect yourself and others. Personally, I always try to rinse off the pests, if I have to, every day (for a while) and to crush it. From my own experience I can also contribute that the ants, which the aphids keep as pets, and milk them or collect the excretions (honeydew) must always be eliminated. As long as there are Ameiaen, you can’t get the plague under control. The best and most gentle thing to do is to relocate the ants.

Kira Bellingham

I'm a homes writer and editor with more than 20 years' experience in publishing. I have worked across many titles, including Ideal Home and, of course, Homes & Gardens. My day job is as Chief Group Sub Editor across the homes and interiors titles in the group. This has given me broad experience in interiors advice on just about every subject. I'm obsessed with interiors and delighted to be part of the Homes & Gardens team.

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