The fuchsia has been a popular ornamental plant since the 19th century. And there are good reasons for that. Of course, the most striking are the brightly colored flowers and the matching green leaves. The great diversity of species, from ground-level fuchsias for the rock garden to meter-high trees, does the rest of the enduring popularity. Easy care and the possibility of simple propagation round off the advantages and make it clear why fuchsias have been found in so many gardens and households for more than two centuries.
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Balcony or bed – choose the right location
Although fuchsias originally come from tropical areas, they are not really tropical plants. They thrive in rather barren but still damp areas with relatively nutrient-poor soil. Here they are bright but usually not in direct sunlight and prefer temperatures between 16°C and 24°C.
Exactly these factors should also be implemented on the balcony or in the garden, depending on the exact type of fuchsia. A location that only gets some sun in the morning and evening or is in the shade of trees and larger shrubs is ideal. This means that fuchsias are in good hands on north-facing balconies, terraces and window sills. Shady and reasonably damp corners in the garden are also suitable.
Because there are now more than 100 species, there are exceptions here. Very small fuchsias, for example, can enrich the rock garden and thrive here with sufficient water even in midsummer. In any case, it should be noted that fuchsias need high humidity and do not tolerate stagnant heat. Locations that are very dry or that heat up a lot during the day must therefore be avoided with all fuchsia species.
Care of the fuchsia
Fuchsias have quite small demands when it comes to care. As long as they are in a reasonably cool, damp and shady place and you water them regularly, they usually thrive without any problems.
In addition to watering, you can also do the plant a favor by spraying it frequently. Fertilizing in summer is also an advantage if the fuchsia is in the right substrate. If you meet these requirements and carry out pest controls from time to time, then the plant can flower for a long time and can also be propagated without any problems.
The right substrate
Fuchsias that are planted in pots or tubs do very well in normal, pre-fertilized potting soil. This can be stretched by adding sand, peat, compost or coconut fibers. But the main thing is not to use cheap earth. This is because it often consists of inferior components.
In the garden should be placed on a loamy soil that is rich in humus and compost. Sand or white peat should also be mixed in here.
Fuchsias require soils with a pH between 5.5 and 7.5. So the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic. In addition, the substrate must be airy and allow a sufficient supply of oxygen.
Water and spray fuchsias
Fuchsias come from rainy areas, so they have a large water requirement. Regular watering, up to twice on particularly hot days, is therefore a must. Roots and soil should still be allowed to dry out a bit between waterings. If the soil is still damp, it does not have to be watered.
Due to the warm areas of origin, the water for balcony and potted plants must never be too cold. The irrigation water must be tempered to around 20°C before it has contact with the leaves and roots. Normally it is sufficient for this purpose to store the water at room temperature for a few hours. It should also never be poured onto an overheated root ball – so it’s better to only use the watering can in the morning and in the evening.
Fuchsia – when and how to fertilize?
Although fuchsias tolerate poor soil, they still need a large amount of nutrients for healthy growth and full flowering. Pre-fertilized soil or weekly fertilizing is therefore advisable.
It should be noted that weak but regular fertilization is better for the plant than large amounts at long intervals. A simple liquid compound fertilizer is sufficient for this purpose.
Healthy plants with large roots can hardly be oversupplied in this way. The situation is different with sick fuchsias or a pest infestation. In these cases one should not apply fertilizer until the plant is completely parasite free or has recovered.
Cut for rich blooms
Withered and dried out parts of the fuchsia plant should be removed as soon as possible. At least if the plants are to have lush flowers and full foliage. The same applies to withered leaves and stems or parts of plants that show discoloration.
In the case of very narrow, airy fuchsias, the leaves can become denser if the end shoots are cut off in spring. However, this removal of the fuchsia’s end shoots should not be done too late, otherwise flowering will be delayed. A cut immediately after wintering is ideal.
Repotting and transplanting the fuchsia
Fuchsias in pots or tubs benefit from an annual replacement of the substrate, and transplanting smaller fuchsias in the garden can also lead to new and stronger growth.
It does not depend on a larger pot or more soil – except for already heavily matted root balls. A change of soil brings new, unused nutrients and often improves the oxygen supply. Used soil tends to silt up with fuchsias. The vital gas exchange is then no longer possible.
It is ideal to transplant and repot immediately after wintering. In this way, the fuchsias can start the new flowering season stronger.
Multiply the fuchsia
Fuchsia can be propagated in three ways. On the one hand, the berries can be won and used for sowing. On the other hand, it is possible to take cuttings from the plant and to prefer them. Foothills of the roots are also used for propagation.
The easiest and most reliable method of propagating fuchsias is by cuttings. It doesn’t matter whether you use soft shoots – so-called head cuttings – or woody plant parts – so-called autumn cuttings.
The extraction of seeds and offshoots, on the other hand, is more difficult. Especially with the seeds, both quick action and patience are required, as they only have a very short germination capacity. Therefore, the berries containing the seeds must be removed immediately after ripening, opened and the seeds planted. After sowing, however, patience is required. Because not all seeds sprout and every fuchsia seed seems to follow a different germination rate. The first young plants can already have reached a considerable size before the remaining seeds even come close to germinating.
To remove offshoots, the plant root must be freed from the earth. Underground shoots, from which their own roots emanate, must be removed with a sharp knife and planted in flower pots.
Leaf cuttings, on the other hand, can be taken all year round. After separating it from the mother plant, you can place it directly in potting or pricking soil, or you can put it in water until the roots develop. Depending on the type and size of the plant, a 10cm cutting is sufficient on average.
Overwintering fuchsias – in the house or garden?
The great diversity of species includes cold-sensitive and hardy fuchsias. Hardy fuchsias can be left outside if planted in the garden, protected with garden fleece and brushwood. Plants that are sensitive to cold, as well as balcony and container plants, must always spend the winter indoors.
However, they should not simply be placed in the cellar until spring. Fuchsias also need sufficient light and a temperature of about 16°C to 20°C during the hibernation, so they should be in heated rooms with sunlight.
Watering can be kept to a minimum during this time. However, the dry indoor air will cause some problems for the plants with tropical origin. Spraying with water, about every two days, should therefore not be missed under any circumstances.
Harden off and acclimate
Fuchsia generally do not tolerate abrupt changes in temperature. In spring and autumn, the plants should therefore not simply be placed indoors or outdoors. It is better to get used to them step by step or to harden them off. Ideally, they are only transferred when the outside and inside temperatures are roughly the same.
The same applies to young plants that have been brought up indoors. If there is still night frost or sudden drops in temperature, these should be transferred back indoors immediately.
Common diseases and pests of fuchsia
Fuchsia rust and botrytis are fungal diseases that usually attack fuchsias when the soil is waterlogged or the climate is too humid. Other reasons can also be insufficient ventilation or a plant stand that is too narrow. The fungal infestation is shown by colored, sometimes furry coverings on the leaves. Only appropriate fungicides, which are used as early as possible, can help here. Plants should be placed in well-ventilated areas and spaced farther apart.
Aphids, whiteflies and red spiders like to perch on Fuchsia leaves. In addition to the pests themselves, feeding damage is normally visible. Appropriate pesticides and isolation of the affected plant help to combat it.
Are fuchsias poisonous or edible?
Fuchsias are not poisonous per se. However, consumption of larger amounts is not harmless either. Ingesting large amounts can be a problem, especially for small children and pets.
Ingesting the fruits and parts of the plant can cause significant gastrointestinal discomfort, including vomiting, diarrhea, cramps and nausea. If in doubt, keep the plants out of reach and consult a doctor if you suspect excessive consumption.
Despite these possible symptoms, the berries of fuchsias are edible. With proper preparation, you can process the ripe fruit into a tasty and unusual jam, for example.
Conclusion
From the small fuchsia for the rock garden to the fuchsia tree, which can reach a height of several meters – the colorful plant fits in every garden and on every balcony due to the variety of species. Single and double flowers as well as different colors expand the variety of long-flowering plants once again and make you spoiled for choice. In addition, there is a care that takes only a little time with the right location and substrate. Much effort is not necessary. Even people without a lot of patience and green thumbs will enjoy fuchsias for a long time.
