The gardenia is originally native to the tropics and belongs to the red family. In the open it grows up to 1.50 m high, with only a single flower appearing at the end of the branches. The dark green, glossy leaves create an attractive visual contrast to the white flowers, which change to a creamy-white hue with age. More than 250 species are known worldwide, most of which thrive as shrubs, less often as saplings. Outside of the tropical and subtropical areas, the gardenia is usually not planted outdoors, but preferably in warm greenhouses with a correspondingly high level of humidity. That is why it is mainly known as a houseplant or cut flower in the local regions.
Table of Contents
Gardenia love the light
As a marked natural beauty, the gardenia is one of the more demanding plants. She prefers a bright location, but you only get direct sunlight for a short time. It is therefore ideal to place it on an east or west window, whereas sun protection against the blazing midday sun is advantageous on a south window. In summer the gardenia also feels at home on the terrace or balcony, because it is familiar with the temperature fluctuations between warm days and cool nights from its tropical home. This also has the advantage that it triggers flower induction, i.e. increased growth of the white flowers.
Sowing and planting
Gardenia seeds can be sown indoors or in the greenhouse all year round. In special, lime-free potting soil, this can also be done easily in a small pot on the windowsill. It is important that the seeds are given a warm and humid environment. Nevertheless, it should be aired daily to prevent mold growth. If the germination succeeded, 2 to 3 real pairs of leaves have formed. Then it’s time to repot the seedlings. Experienced hobby gardeners use a pricking wood for this, which creates a small planting hole in which the seedling is sunk.
In the first year, the young plant is repotted several times, later at most every one to two years. Hobby gardeners ideally plant the ornamental shrub in a glazed pot or tub. Humic, slightly acidic and, above all, lime-free soil, to which a little rhododendron earth is added, is suitable. In any case, the planter must have a drainage hole that is covered with a pottery shard or pebbles. In this way it cannot become clogged with substrate, which reliably prevents the formation of waterlogging.
Advice on care
During the growth phase, which lasts from March to September, the following care instructions must be observed:
- the gardenia needs a lot of moisture;
- Avoid waterlogging with drainage;
- Lime-free rainwater is suitable as irrigation water;
- as soon as the surface of the earth dries, watering begins;
- provide weekly with rhododendron fertilizer;
- To pluck out faded things immediately;
- add some iron fertilizer to the irrigation water every 14 days;
- Spray the leaves regularly, but not the flowers;
- Temperatures between 17 ° and 24 ° Celsius are ideal;
- strong temperature fluctuations cause bud loss.
In contrast to many other plants, the gardenia does not take a complete break in winter. It is therefore important to keep them moisturized during this time too; but to a lesser extent than during the summer months. No fertilizer is required for maintenance in winter.
Hibernate gardenias successfully
A vigorous gardenia can withstand brief freezing temperatures, but for a healthy winter it needs a roof over its head. This can be a cool winter garden or an unheated greenhouse, provided that the temperature does not drop below 0 ° to 5 ° Celsius. At higher temperatures, on the other hand, there is a risk that no flower buds will form or that those that have already formed will be thrown off. In addition, the plant will get over the winter well if it is in a bright spot. As spring approaches, it’s time to prune back the gardenia.
The cut back is made up to one eye that is directed outwards. This will ensure that the plant does not get too big and grows evenly in the coming season. At the same time, a new shoot from sleeping eyes is animated, which are located below the interface. The experienced hobby gardener recognizes a sleeping eye by a slight bulge in the bark. The cuts in the upper part of the shoots tend to heal quickly and the result is further branching of this shoot for an even bushier appearance. If the gardenia is planned to spend the summer outdoors, the move should take place after the ice saints, in mid-May, at the earliest. Ideally, the plant initially spends a few days in the shade or comes outside on a cloudy day,
Encouraging gardenia to
bloom in winter Most gardenia species bloom in summer and early fall. With a little skill, however, it is possible to stimulate the ‘Veitchii’ variety to bloom in winter. This is achieved by breaking out the buds in late summer or early autumn. With the help of this measure, the gardenia becomes a winter bloomer. It is important to note that, despite this, the water is only moderately poured during the winter months and only when the upper layer of soil begins to dry out. This can be determined with a simple thumb test.
Spring time is repotting time
The gardenia can be repotted in a larger container every one to two years. However, this measure will only be tackled when the previous pot is fully rooted. If the gardenia is well watered a few hours beforehand, it can be removed more easily from the pot. If an unglazed pot is intended as a new home for the flower, it is immersed in water for a few minutes, because dry clay immediately removes moisture from it. If the gardenia is removed from the previous pot, the opportunity should be used to examine the root ball thoroughly. Rotten and dried up roots are carefully cut off and pests removed. A lime-free substrate, such as rhododendron soil, to which a little compost and sand is added, is very suitable for repotting. Hobby gardener, Those who prefer a mixture of peat and foliage soil should keep in mind that in this case important nutrients that are added with the help of fertilizer are missing. Of course, the drainage hole, which is provided with a drainage made of pottery shards or pebbles, should not be missing in the new planter or flower box. If the gardenia is already in the largest possible pot, the upper layer of soil can be removed about 3 cm to 5 cm deep with a small hand spade. No larger roots may be damaged in the process. Now it can be filled up with fresh earth up to the previous level. So the plant still gets a good boost of fresh food. Of course, the drainage hole, which is provided with a drainage made of pottery shards or pebbles, should not be missing in the new planter or flower box. If the gardenia is already in the largest possible pot, the upper layer of soil can be removed about 3 cm to 5 cm deep with a small hand spade. No larger roots may be damaged in the process. Now it can be filled up with fresh earth up to the previous level. So the plant still gets a good boost of fresh food. Of course, the drainage hole, which is provided with a drainage made of pottery shards or pebbles, should not be missing in the new planter or flower box. If the gardenia is already in the largest possible pot, the upper layer of soil can be removed about 3 cm to 5 cm deep with a small hand spade. No larger roots may be damaged in the process. Now it can be filled up with fresh earth up to the previous level. So the plant still gets a good boost of fresh food. No larger roots may be damaged in the process. Now it can be filled up with fresh earth up to the previous level. So the plant still gets a good boost of fresh food. No larger roots may be damaged in the process. Now it can be filled up with fresh earth up to the previous level. So the plant still gets a good boost of fresh food.
Propagation by head cuttings
Once you have got to know and appreciate the beauty and the wonderful scent of the gardenia, you will want even more specimens of this lush plant. Hobby gardeners prefer propagation by head cuttings because this method can be carried out quite easily. After overwintering, the cuttings are cut with at least three to four flowers, just below a knot. So that the rooting works better, they are briefly dipped in a rooting hormone and then put in a mixture of peat, sand, compost and rhododendron soil. It is advisable to sterilize the sand in the oven at 200 ° before using it. In addition, it is essential to ensure that the earth is free of lime. In the next step, it is important to protect the cuttings from evaporation. This succeeds by putting a plastic bag over the planter with one or two small air holes. For the next four to five weeks, the cuttings should be as warm as possible, which is beneficial for rooting. As soon as the first new shoots appear, this is the signal that the rooting has succeeded. Now it is time to repot the cuttings and from now on care for the offspring as well as the adult plants. The young plants should only be watered lightly, because otherwise they are susceptible to cuttings rot. Now it is time to repot the cuttings and from now on care for the offspring as well as the adult plants. The young plants should only be watered lightly, because otherwise they are susceptible to cuttings rot. Now it is time to repot the cuttings and from now on care for the offspring as well as the adult plants. The young plants should only be watered lightly, because otherwise they are susceptible to cuttings rot.
Care for diseases and pests
If the leaves of the gardenia turn yellow and fall off, this is usually a sign of aging. These symptoms are especially common if the plant has not been pruned regularly. The branches grow old, as a result of which they become bald from below and only bloom in the upper parts. This negative process can be prevented by regularly exposing the plant. This encourages the gardenia to keep producing new, young shoots, which significantly delays the aging process.
Another cause of yellow, falling leaves can be chlorosis . This disease is triggered by calcareous irrigation water or calcareous fertilizers.The situation becomes more serious with yellow leaves when spider mitesthat have attacked gardenia. As the name suggests, these are not insects, but a type of mite. These are tiny red spiders that attach themselves to the underside of the leaf. The main cause of the infestation is insufficient ventilation. Therefore, daily, thorough ventilation is an effective prevention that certainly does not harm the human inhabitants. The preventive measures also include thorough cleaning of the plant leaves from dust and debris. At least once a month, the leaves should be cleaned with room warm water. The gardenia leaves can then breathe better through the free pores, which strengthens their resistance. If the spider mites have spread anyway, severely infested leaves should be removed.
Gardenias can also get from aphidsbe attacked against which action must be taken immediately. In the first step, the plant can be carefully showered. If this doesn’t get rid of the aphids, a tried and true home remedy can be used. To do this, 1 tablespoon of soft soap and 1 tablespoon of alcohol are dissolved in 1 liter of water (room temperature) and the infected leaves are carefully sprayed with it. Scale insects also like to tamper with gardenias. These 1.5 to 3 mm long pests are brown or yellow and are located on the underside of the leaves. If you don’t want to use the chemical club to fight these pests, carefully clean all the leaves with a soft cloth. Hiding places for the tiny ones can be found quickly with the help of a magnifying glass. Then the above mentioned soft soap solution should also be used in this case. If the gardenia plant is still small enough, it can also be briefly dipped upside down in this solution, then all infested areas will be reached with certainty.
Conclusion
The gardenia enchants with wonderful flowers and a beguiling scent. Therefore it is very popular as a houseplant. In the summer months it beautifies balconies and terraces. In order for their splendor to come into their own, constant attention and careful maintenance are required. It is not for nothing that it is also called the buttonhole to this day. In the Romantic era, a gentleman wore a gardenia in his buttonhole in honor of his beloved; a tradition that can still be seen today at many weddings.
