Grow winter cabbage, kale yourself

Green cabbage is not only one of the most popular types of cabbage in northern Germany. The Dutch and many Scandinavians also love the versatile winter cabbage. When next to nothing is growing outside, kale is in top form. The plant only develops its full aroma when the frost sweeps in at least once. Hardy and low maintenance, winter cabbage is easy to grow in the garden. Especially the low and medium-high varieties are recommended. It should be noted that kale does not go well with all types of vegetables.

Characteristics

  • Cruciferous family
  • Cultivated form of cabbage
  • Different varieties
  • Derived from wild cabbage
  • Fast-growing cabbage species
  • Flowers only in the second year
  • Large inflorescences with yellow flowers
  • There are pods with many seeds
  • High content of vitamin C, but in the raw state
  • There are also brown-leaved varieties
Tip: Many people know kale mainly with bacon and sausages or meat, but there is much more to this kale. Kale is rich in valuable vital substances. It is traded as a ‘superfood’ because its antioxidants are considered a protective shield against various diseases. Its protein and iron content makes even beef look pale. 

growing kale

Growing kale is easy. It is important to choose the right winter cabbage variety for your planned location and the associated soil. There is plenty of that. For most areas, the common varieties are sufficient. For rough locations, however, the more robust, lower varieties are recommended. No cabbage or other cruciferous vegetables should be planted in the same bed for three years between growing seasons, simply to avoid leaching the soil and preventing disease. This is a particularly good way to prevent clubroot. Otherwise there is not much to consider.

location

Kale likes it sunny. It also thrives in partial shade but should get a few hours of sun. He also likes it warm. Tall varieties should be sheltered from the wind to prevent the stems from breaking.

  • Sunny
  • Warm
  • Tall varieties sheltered from the wind
  • Goes well in the vegetable patch with tomatoes, spinach, beans, radishes and salads
  • Do not plant near potatoes and bulbous plants such as leeks, garlic and onions

plant substrate

The winter cabbage thrives on quite different soils. It makes few demands on the substrate. He prefers a loamy, nutrient-rich soil. Sandy soils are not suitable for growing kale.

  • Loamy and nutritious
  • Water storage and at the same time permeable
  • No sandy bottom
  • Adaptable

sowing

A distinction is made between summer-winter culture and spring-autumn culture. The former is best sown as a follow-up crop for early potatoes between mid-May and mid-June. In spring-autumn culture, sowing takes place in July. The young plants need winter protection and are planted out in early spring. It is sown in a seed bed or a cold frame.

The ground must be prepared accordingly. Medium-heavy clay soil that has been fertilized with humus is ideal. Prepare the bed a few weeks in advance, i.e. dig up and enrich with compost. It is not sown until no more night frosts are to be expected, i.e. from mid-May. Put the seeds about two centimeters deep in the ground or cover two centimeters with soil. It is best to make furrows beforehand to ensure that the seeds sprout in a row. If you don’t want to prick out and sow on the spot, leave a distance of 40 cm.

Small sowing containers can be used to prefer them on the windowsill, or alternatively egg packs. Only use one grain per box.

Keep the soil slightly moist throughout, but never wet. Light is important, but avoid glaring sun. Once the seedlings are 5 to 10 cm tall, they can be transplanted to their final location.

  • Summer-winter culture or spring-autumn culture
  • Different sowing times, either from mid-May or in August
  • Prefer on the windowsill or sow directly outdoors
  • Sow individually
  • Keep light and evenly moist
  • Don’t let it dry out and don’t keep it too wet

plant

When planting, the planting distance is particularly important and that the kale is planted relatively deep. The planting distance is 40 cm on all sides. Planting deeper is therefore important to prevent cabbage fly infestation.

The soil should again be well prepared. Compost and stable manure are suitable for this, but well deposited. Rake the planting site well before planting and remove all weeds. Maybe you should sprinkle some lime so that the soil stays in the neutral area. This prevents clubroot. If you don’t want to use normal lime, you can use algae lime instead. Work some compost into the top layer of soil about two weeks before the actual planting date.

  • Planting distance at least 40 cm
  • Plant deep enough, the soil must reach the cotyledons
Tip: Alternatively, you can pile up after planting or place a collar of cabbage around the young plants – this way the cabbage fly cannot lay eggs.
  • Prepare soil well
  • Start 14 days before planting
  • Incorporate compost
  • Remove weeds before planting and rake well again

maintenance

The young plants should be freed from weeds, because they are food competitors. When the kale plants have developed strong roots, they can pull their water from deeper soil layers and cope better with competition. To give the plants more stability, they can be mounded if they have not been done before.

  • remove weeds
  • loosen soil
  • pile up

watering and fertilizing

Kale is not demanding, but it will not thrive without adequate water. The supply of nutrients also determines a good harvest. Nutrient deficiency becomes visible on yellow leaves. The drier the existing soil, the more water has to be added. If the soil can store water well, that’s cheaper. However, it is essential to avoid permanent wetness.

  • Nettle manure is good for fertilizing. It strengthens the plants and can also ward off pests.
  • Never let the soil dry out
  • Water regularly
  • Provide constant light moisture
  • Fertilize in September
Note: Fertilizer will directly affect the flavor of the kale. Therefore, raw manure should not be used under any circumstances. Rotted manure, castor bean meal, dried cattle manure and horn shavings are more suitable.

hibernate

Kale is hardy down to -10°C, some varieties even down to -20°C. The low varieties usually survive the winter without any problems, the higher ones often collapse under the weight of snow. If you want to avoid this, you either have to shake off the snow or protect the plants with an improvised roof. Frosts can also lead to leaf loss.

  • Hardy to -10°C, some varieties to -20°C
  • shake off the snow load
  • Protect from frost
  • Wind and constant moisture can cause the leaves to turn brown and inedible.
  • A winter protection fleece can ensure that the kale survives the winter well

diseases and pests

Mainly the cabbage fly can affect the harvest. Vegetable fly nets can prevent incursion. Fleas can also cause damage. The most feared disease is clubroot. They destroy the harvest, but also make cultivation on the affected area impossible for years.

  • Clubroot – slime mold disease, pathogen lives in the soil, affects the roots, affected plants die and wilt, leaves appear gray or blue-green and limp, many causes, kale is the least endangered of all types of cabbage – destroy plants immediately, remove and remove surrounding soil, Put calcium cyanamide in the cavities created by tearing out. Replace earth if necessary.
  • Cabbage Fly – Vegetable Nets
  • Fleas – Keep soil evenly moist
  • Cabbage gall weevil – spray tansy tea
  • Cabbage White Caterpillars – Collect
  • Keep whitefly wetter – especially in dry conditions
  • Lice – rinse off with a strong jet of water
  • Snails – collect, snail fence, grow in raised beds

A mixture of neem oil, rimulgan and water, which is sprayed, works against pests in general. The pests can no longer reproduce. All ingredients are allowed in organic farming and have no harmful side effects.

  • Powdery mildew – initially white-grey, later almost black spots on leaves and stems, fungal infection, control is usually not necessary, pesticides change frequently, so ask for a suitable variety in specialist shops
  • Downy mildew – dense fungal growth on the underside of the leaf, lightening and yellow spots on the upper side, wilting leaves, premature leaf fall, do not water on the leaves, water better in the morning than in the evening, remove affected areas in the case of a light infestation, use appropriate control agents in the case of a heavy infestation

kale harvest

Kale is harvested in the second year. It is best to wait until the first frost before harvesting. You can then continue harvesting throughout the winter. Temperatures below minus 10°C should be avoided. The leaves are harvested from the outside in, which also stimulates further growth. Also, always work from the bottom up. The tender, fresh leaves taste particularly good. If the leaves stay on the plant for too long, they develop bitter substances. Multiple picking increases the yield. Young leaves are ideal for green smoothies.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which types of kale do you recommend?

That depends somewhat on the location and also the location of the garden. In cold high altitudes, other varieties are recommended than in low river areas.

  • Vitessa – early harvest, rather low, not quite frost-resistant, for warmer areas
  • Half-high green Krauser – dark green, medium-crimped foliage, medium-high, medium frost hardiness – not for cold locations
  • Nero di Toscana – dark, blue-green leaves, palm-like growth, medium-tall, mildly sweet taste, low frost hardiness, thrives in tubs
  • Redbor – red-leaved variety, turns green when cooked, fine ripples, tall, extremely hardy
  • Winterbor – medium to tall, blue-green to dark green, heavily curled leaves, very hardy to frost
  • Larch tongue – finely curled, long, slightly drooping leaves, good frost hardiness
  • Frostara – particularly frost-resistant, lush green, broad leaves, up to 70 cm high
  • Black Magic – Tuscan palm cabbage, very dark green leaves, dense tuft, almost no stalk, high ornamental value, suitable for containers
  • East Frisian palm – old variety, up to 1.80 m tall, only the upper leaves are really tasty, hardy

Are all types of kale hardy and can they remain in the garden until they are finally harvested?

Not all are equally hardy. Newer varieties, which are mainly intended for professional growers, are less hardy because the kale is harvested all at once and does not remain there all winter. If you want to be on the safe side, use old varieties such as ‘Half-High Krauser’, ‘Lower Krauser’, ‘Lerchenzungen’ or ‘Frosty’.

Kira Bellingham

I'm a homes writer and editor with more than 20 years' experience in publishing. I have worked across many titles, including Ideal Home and, of course, Homes & Gardens. My day job is as Chief Group Sub Editor across the homes and interiors titles in the group. This has given me broad experience in interiors advice on just about every subject. I'm obsessed with interiors and delighted to be part of the Homes & Gardens team.

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