Growing jalapeños and habanero plants in the garden

Hot peppers are popular, including jalapeños and habaneros. The small to medium-sized jalapeños were named after a Mexican city, after Xalapa. They are typical representatives of the species Capsicum annuum, i.e. the Spanish pepper. Habaneros do not come from Havana, i.e. from Cuba, as is often assumed, but from the Yucatan peninsula, where they are still grown today. They are around 50 times hotter than jalapeños and should be consumed with care. You can also grow both types of plants with us, although there are varieties that are better or worse. Warmth and as much sun as possible are important. As a rule, the plants do not get that big in the Central European climate, but the harvest is usually quite good.

Profile of the jalapeños

  • About 1.5 m high
  • Mostly white flowers
  • Varieties with partially or completely purple flowers
  • About 30 fruits per plant
  • Between pollination and ripe fruit – 70 to 80 days
  • Fruit usually 7 to 8 cm long, narrow, up to 2 cm thick
  • Distinguishing feature from other varieties – clearly rounded tip
  • Unripe fruits mostly green, ripe red
  • Cultivated forms – dark purple to black or white fruits
  • Thick fleshed fruits
  • Above average number of seeds
  • Often corkings, looking like brownish cracks, no impairment
  • Sharpness on a Scoville scale between 2,500 and 8,000 units.

Profile of the Habaneros

  • Pflanzenart Capsicum chinese
  • Exceptional heat, are among the hottest chillies
  • Do not come from Havana (Cuba), but rather from the Yucatan peninsula
  • Plant up to 1.2 m high
  • Will be around 6 years old
  • 2.5 to 6 cm long fruits in yellow, orange, red or brown
  • Lots of new varieties
  • Tropical-fruity aroma
  • Appearance – like mini peppers with folds, usually in the shape of a lantern or lantern, rarely tapering
  • Usually takes about 100 days to mature
  • Habanero pods 100,000 to 500,000 units

Grow chillies, jalapeños and habaneros in the garden

A greenhouse is ideal for growing these hot pepper varieties, but even those who don’t own one can grow the delicious hot fruits. The plants do not get as big here as in really warm and sunny countries, but they do develop some fruits and they are also quite hot, depending on the variety.

Cultivation

Accordingly, it is best to buy seeds for cultivation from special seed mail order companies or in seed shops in the holiday region. When buying seeds, pay attention to the ripening times. They can’t be too long. Varieties with a ripening time of 70 days are ideal, 80 days are still possible, but at 90 days it gets a bit critical. To do this, you have to sow very early and allow it to ripen. Incidentally, a heated greenhouse is ideal here.

Alternatively, you can of course also buy fruit while on vacation and then take the seeds home with you. Asia shops are a good source in Germany. These often offer quite hot fruits. There are also many fans of the fruit, with whom you can trade or buy. After the first harvest, you can use your own seeds.

Note: If you grow different varieties, it can lead to crossbreeding. The offspring can possibly produce completely different plants and fruits.
  • Minimum temperatures for germination at least 20 to 22 ° C, better higher
  • A heated cultivation vessel simplifies and accelerates germination
  • Alternatively, use a thermostated germination box
  • Use a plant light in less than ideal lighting conditions
  • Use seed compost that is germ-free
  • Alternatively, mix peat culture substrate, agro-perlite and vermiculite
  • Pre-treat seeds
  • Soak for 24 hours
  • After that, still swim, soak for another 24 hours
  • Put one to two drops of washing-up liquid in the glass
  • Keep warm, preferably at around 28 ° C
  • Swap water every 12 hours to avoid putrefaction
  • Habaneros have a germination time of about 4 weeks, here you should start sowing in mid-February
  • Jalapeños germinate after 7 to 21 days, beginning at the end of February and beginning of March
  • Many chillies sprout after a week, which is why you don’t start here until mid-March
Note: If you have a heated greenhouse, you can sow in mid-January. Then the fruits are guaranteed to be ripe. If you don’t have this, you should wait until around mid-March and choose varieties with early fruit set.

Anyone who has bought a pack of seeds can usually read on it whether the seeds are light or dark germs. Not all varieties are created equal. Usually it is like this:

  • Jalapeños – light sprouts – do not cover with soil, just press down
  • Habaneros – light germinator – do not cover with soil, just press down (there are definitely exceptions)
  • Cover the chilli seeds 3 to 4 millimeters with soil
  • Put the seeds individually into the seed pots
  • Cover the vessels with a glass pane or plastic plate
  • Place warm and bright, preferably above 22 ° C, better 25 to 30 ° C, no sun
  • Keep the soil slightly moist. It must never dry out, but also not be too wet.
  • It is important to have enough light, otherwise the seedlings will ginger
  • When sowing individually, you save yourself singling, otherwise they have to be pricked out as soon as the plants have formed their second pair of real leaves

Plant substrate

A new substrate is used either when pricking out or moving the seedlings. You can use normal substrate, but mix in perlite or coarse sand to make it more permeable. It is essential to avoid water stagnation. Drainage in the bottom of the pot prevents excess water from draining off.

  • Permeable earth
  • Mix in perlite or coarse sand
  • Nutrient-rich – mix in primary rock flour and ripe compost
  • Always choose vessels one or two sizes larger
  • Drainage in the pot is helpful
  • At the end, use an 8 liter container, which is usually sufficient
  • Ornamental chilies usually get by with much smaller vessels
  • Use up to 30 liters for vigorous varieties

location

In mild areas, the plants can be planted outdoors. You then need a very sunny, warm and sheltered location. Planting will take place after the Ice Saints at the earliest. Sufficient planting spacing is important, between 30 and 60 cm depending on the variety, but a little more for fast-growing varieties.
Most chillies, jalapeños and habaneros stay in their containers. You can cultivate them yourself on a bright window sill, on the balcony (south-facing) or on the sun terrace. If the plants do not get enough sun, which can also be due to the weather, the fruits do not ripen. The plants are best protected from rain. Alternatively, they can be covered with foils.

  • Plant out only after the ice saints
  • Definitely sunny, warm and sheltered from the wind
  • Set up vessels accordingly
  • It is also best to protect it from rain
Tip: Do not put young plants in full sun straight away, as they are not used to that and burns can occur. It is better to get them used to the sun slowly.

maintenance

No matter which type of pepper you have chosen, they don’t like wet feet. Therefore, it should be poured with care. If it is too wet, the roots rot very quickly. However, the substrate should not dry out completely. Strong fluctuations are also unfavorable, i.e. no water for a long time and then a lot again.

Nutrients are important, but caution should also be exercised when fertilizing. Too much fertilizer will burn the tender roots. It is best to give a long-term fertilizer when pricking the ground. After 2 months this is used up and that is usually the time in which the plants finally start to bloom. Then you can re-fertilize, mainly phosphorus and potassium . Nitrogen is hardly needed any more.

Temperatures should be high as high as it gets outdoors in summer. Night temperatures below 5 ° C are unfavorable. If the temperatures drop that much, it is better to bring the plants indoors or to protect them.

  • Water and fertilize wisely
  • Don’t let it dry out, but don’t keep it too wet either
  • Add slow release fertilizer when pricking out or when transplanting for the first time
  • After 2 months fertilize phosphorus and potassium
  • Pay attention to the highest possible temperatures
  • No temperatures below 5 ° C, anything above 10 ° C is ok

To cut

When it comes to cutting, scholars argue and do not always agree with amateur gardeners. In principle, one can say that strongly growing species and varieties should be cut. The plants become bushier and have more flowers.

  • It is better not to cut weak-growing plants
  • The cut is always above a growth node
  • Refrain from skimming

Cutting before wintering

It is best to cut back after the harvest, but it can also be done in spring. The pruning before wintering has the advantage that the plants are smaller and more manageable and there is not so much dirt in the winter quarters. The main shoots are cut off at a height of 30 or 40 cm. It is important to keep a bushy shape. In spring you only have to remove the shoots that are dry and dead.

Chilli plant overwinter

Mostly it is stated that only Capsicum frutescens can be overwintered, for example Cayenne Chili and Tabasco, but in principle it works with almost all varieties. However, it is not worth the effort with fast-growing varieties, which the jalapeños belong to. It’s easier to bring them back up every year.

The plants must be cleared in good time, if possible as soon as the temperatures drop below 10 ° C. The place must be bright and cool. Ideal temperatures are between 10 and 15 ° C. They should not fall below 10 ° C, this has an impact on the next harvest. Rather higher temperatures, up to approx. 20 ° C, so the plants get along better. Sufficient light is important. One or more plant lamps are helpful.

You can cut back the plants a bit, but you don’t have to. If you have enough space, you can let it grow. It is watered sparingly, just enough so that the earth does not dry out completely. If there is too much water, the earth will go moldy and the roots will rot. The other way around, the roots must not dry out either. In heated rooms, pests usually spread within a very short time, especially aphids and whiteflies. Yellow stickers and cutting back the plants help here. The leaves are shed over time anyway and then the pests usually also disappear. There is no fertilization. In the spring it is repotted into a slightly larger vessel. It is best to exchange the earth abundantly.

  • Allow time, at temperatures below 10 ° C
  • Temperatures between 10 and 15 ° C are ideal
  • If necessary up to 20 ° C, but then there are usually problems with pests
  • Lots of light – use plant lamps
  • If necessary, cut back before loading
  • Pour little, but don’t let it dry out
  • The cooler the location, the less watering
  • Do not fertilize

Frequently asked questions

Which varieties are good for cooking?
Thai Dragon, Californian Wonder, Friggitello, Aji Dulce, Anaheim, Serrano, Thai Orange, Corno di Toro, Jamy Chili, Orange Lantern, Lemon Drop, Tabasco

Which ones are suitable for pickling?
Peter Pepper, Lombardo, Aji Cristal, Friggitello, Orange Lantern, Inferno, Jalapeño, Tennessee Teardrop, Purple Tiger, Jamy, Bishops Crown

Which varieties are best eaten fresh?
Jalapeños, Lombardo, Long Yellow Ringo, Californian Wonder, Friggitello, Anaheim, Apache, Lemon Drop, Tabasco, Habanero, Aji Habanero, Scotch Bonnet

Kira Bellingham

I'm a homes writer and editor with more than 20 years' experience in publishing. I have worked across many titles, including Ideal Home and, of course, Homes & Gardens. My day job is as Chief Group Sub Editor across the homes and interiors titles in the group. This has given me broad experience in interiors advice on just about every subject. I'm obsessed with interiors and delighted to be part of the Homes & Gardens team.

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