Herb garden on the balcony – herb care

With a well thought-out plan, even the smallest herb garden on the balcony can produce a rich harvest. As decades of experience have shown, a mixed culture is generally preferable to a monoculture, even in the herb garden. In a first step, personal favorites are therefore determined among the herbs that will be planted on the balcony. Simply sowing or planting these in the nearest flower box could lead to a nasty surprise, because not all herbs harmonize with one another.

Basil should not be placed next to lemon balm and thyme should not be placed next to marjoram. Fennel and coriander go just as little as dill and tarragon. As a rule of thumb, herbs that have the same nutritional needs should not be placed next to each other. In addition, the biennial and perennial species in particular are so vigorous that they can only thrive in a solitary pot, such as lovage and lavender. On the other hand, there are numerous herbs that get along very well with each other or even strengthen their neighbors, such as sage and oregano, parsley and dill. So it pays to invest some time in planning the optimal combination of your preferred herbs before you start sowing or planting.

Herbal care

Whether the selected herbs are now sown or purchased ready-made in the garden center; The quality of the potting soil is decisive for lush and healthy growth. Herbal varieties that naturally prefer poor soil are planted in a mixture of one part sand and three parts good garden soil. Those herbs that need nutritious potting soil come in a mixture of humus and soil. Alternatively, the specialist trade offers special herbal soil. The most popular herbs and their care requirements are presented below:

Parsely

• biennial
• partially shaded location
• nutritious soil or herbal soil
• Pour only moderately
• fertilize with horn meal or horn shavings
• goes well with dill and chives
• Winter protection required

basil

• annual
• sunny location
• grows well in a mixture of soil and sand
• normal water requirement
• fertilize organically
• cut the shoot tips regularly
• does not get along with lemon balm

chives

• perennial
• sunny to partially shaded place
• prefers loamy soil
• water abundantly
• fertilize organically every now and then
• hardy
• goes well with chamomile, dill, chervil

Real thyme

• perennial
• Bees and butterflies pasture
• sunny location
• sandy, nutrient-poor soil
• pour little
• Do not fertilize any more from August
• not hardy
• goes well with fennel, coriander, tarragon, savory
• not compatible with marjoram

Dill

• annual classic
• location in full sun
• Deep roots
• preferred humus garden soil
• high water requirement
• does not require fertilizer
• goes well with chives, chamomile, marjoram
• not compatible with fennel

marjoram

• perennial
• sunny, warm place
• normal garden soil or herb substrate
• water sparingly
• fertilize only a little
• not hardy
• goes well with dill, chives, chervil
• do not plant next to thyme

rosemary

• perennial
• lots of sun and warmth
• prefers a mixture of earth and sand
• water regularly
• fertilize organically in spring
• needs winter quarters
• goes well with sage and basil

Lemon balm

• perennial
• sunny and sheltered place
• loves sandy, nutrient-rich loamy soil
• can also handle normal garden soil
• light winter protection required
• compatible with almost all herbs
• no neighborhood to basil

sage

• perennial
• full sun, warm location
• ideally a mixture of earth and sand
• pour only a little
• does not require fertilizer
• conditionally hardy
• goes well with oregano and savory

Estragon

• perennial
• sunny to partially shaded place
• very vigorous
• water regularly
• grows in normal garden soil
• fertilize organically every 2 weeks
• not hardy
• goes well with rosemary, sage, chives
• does not go well with dill

Liebstöckel (Maggikraut)

• perennial
• very vigorous
• should be planted alone
• sunny to partially shaded location
• prefers humus-rich substrate
• water sufficiently
• give liquid fertilizer monthly
• goes well with fennel and parsley
• hardy

lavender

• perennial
• sunny, dry location
• nutrient-poor, calcareous substrate
• only water sparingly
• cut in spring and summer
• some varieties not hardy
• fertilize organically in spring
• goes well with savory and lemon balm
• does not go well with wormwood

Caraway seed

• biennial
• sunny to partially shaded place
• Thrives in a mixture of garden soil, compost and sand
• water regularly
• fertilize organically during spring and summer
• evergreen and hardy
• goes well with dill, parsley, marjoram, rosemary

Savory

• annual and biennial varieties
• location in full sun, sheltered from the wind
• loose, slightly sandy potting soil
• fertilize regularly
• prune back in spring
• goes well with lavender
• conditionally hardy

coriander

• annual
• sunny to partially shaded location
• humus garden soil or herb substrate
• pour moderately
• no fertilizer required in the pot
• goes well with thyme, savory, parsley
• never plant next to fennel

Garden cress

• annual
• Ready for harvest within 2 weeks
• water abundantly
• Thrives in normal garden soil
• does not require fertilizer
• does not go well with dill

Oregano

• perennial
• sunny to partially shaded place
• Bees and butterflies pasture
• normal garden soil or herb substrate
• pour little
• fertilize organically in spring
• needs some winter protection
• goes well with sage and savory

chervil

• annual
• partially shaded location
• pour evenly
• Thrives in a soil-sand-compost mixture
• popular insect pasture
• no fertilizer required
• goes well with dill, chives, chamomile, savory
• Risk of confusion with highly toxic hemlock

Avoid waterlogging

As different as the care of the various herbs may be; They have one thing in common: Aromatic plants do not tolerate waterlogging at all. Whether they are planted in a flower box, in a tub, in a flower pot or in a clay bowl; the vessel should definitely have a drainage hole for excess water. Before the substrate is poured into the container, the knowledgeable hobby gardener lays a drainage system, which can consist of expanded clay, perlite, gravel or pottery shards. An additional piece of garden or weed fleece that is permeable to water and air, which is spread over it, reliably prevents the drainage from clogging through the potting soil.

To cut

With most herbs, the cut is not only used for harvesting, but also functions as an indispensable maintenance measure. In particular, the perennial types of herbs that lignify over time should be pruned regularly. Thyme, basil, sage and rosemary are regularly cut at the tips of the shoots. In this way, the kitchen not only has a complete supply of herbs, but the aromatic plants are also stimulated to branch out and bushy. Experienced gardeners only harvest dill, parsley and chives in portions. This gives them enough space to sprout again unhindered. The ideal time to prune the perennial aromatic plants is early spring, before the growth phase begins or, alternatively, after flowering in late summer. The experienced hobby gardener takes care not to cut into the old wood, as this causes injuries that may prevent it from sprouting again. The thin tubular leaves of the hardy chives, on the other hand, are cut with a sharp knife to 2 or 3 centimeters above the substrate. The same is done with perennial parsley. Annual herbs, such as dill and chervil, are cut whole because they will be planted or sown again in the next year. The thin tubular leaves of the hardy chives, on the other hand, are cut with a sharp knife to 2 or 3 centimeters above the substrate. The same is done with perennial parsley. Annual herbs, such as dill and chervil, are cut whole because they will be planted or sown again in the next year. The thin tubular leaves of the hardy chives, on the other hand, are cut with a sharp knife to 2 or 3 centimeters above the substrate. The same is done with perennial parsley. Annual herbs, such as dill and chervil, are cut whole because they will be planted or sown again in the next year.

Overwinter

With perennial herbs, the question of correct overwintering also arises. The conditionally hardy varieties, such as rosemary and sage, are ideally placed in a cool but frost-free, light winter quarters. A dark basement room is rather unsuitable, in contrast to an unheated staircase or winter garden. Little is poured during this time. The application of fertilizer is completely dispensed with. Herbs that can survive the winter outdoors, such as parsley and oregano, are still given winter protection. For this purpose, they are placed on a styrofoam block on the south wall of the house, the planter is wrapped with bubble wrap or garden fleece and covered with brushwood or straw. To prevent the herbs from drying out, they are given a little water every now and then if it doesn’t freeze.

Pests and diseases

Like most garden and balcony plants, herbs are not immune to pests and diseases. The plants in the herb garden on the balcony should therefore be examined regularly in order to react immediately in the event of an infestation. Since the nudibranchs and vine weevils, which are feared in the garden bed, rarely get lost on the balcony, it is in particular aphids, whiteflies and scale insects that mess with the herbs. A chemical agent should only be used as the very last measure, because the aromatic plants are intended for consumption. For this reason it is advisable to use biological control agents first. A mixture consisting of 1 liter of water, 1 tablespoon of alcohol and 1 tablespoon of soft soap has proven effective against aphids. If this solution is sprayed onto the infested herbs for several days in a row, with a little luck this measure will put an end to the pests. The use of parasitic wasps as their natural predator against whiteflies and scale insects has achieved good results. The small beneficial insects are now available in many specialist shops. Savory, sage, lemon balm and basil are not infrequently plagued by cicadas sucking plant sap. With diluted vinegar essence, these pests can be driven away by spraying the underside of the leaves of the herbs. If leaf spot diseases occur, such as rust fungus or powdery mildew, it can be sufficient if the herb is pruned vigorously. The chances are good that it will then sprout again healthy. As a preventive measure, the herbal plants should only be watered at the roots early in the morning. In addition, in the herb garden on the balcony, the use of nettle manure as a biological remedy against powdery mildew has made a name for itself.

Conclusion
Even on a balcony, no matter how small, there is space for your own herb garden, which – with the right care – provides aromatic spices for the home kitchen all year round. Almost every planter is suitable for sowing or planting herbs, as long as no waterlogging can develop in it. A shallow bowl offers enough space for the garden cress and the large tub is an ideal home for deep roots such as lovage and dill. Experienced gardening enthusiasts plead for a mixed culture, also in the herb garden on the balcony. Before doing this, however, you should research carefully whether all of the aromatic plants that come into question are compatible with each other. Once this question has been clarified, the location and substrate are also correct, the herbal plants hardly have any further care requirements, apart from the correct dosage of the irrigation water. If you keep a close eye on your herbs, you will quickly recognize an infestation with pests and diseases and take action against them in good time. By the way, the care and maintenance of a herb garden on the balcony is the perfect introduction to hobby gardening for children.