Most cultivars of the Hibiscus syriacus are not only characterized by their special, external shape, but also by a particularly lush and long bloom. The mallow family fascinates with its exotic, unusual flower shape in many colors. Despite all the exoticism, you can also plant a hibiscus tree in our field, there are some quite hardy varieties.


  • Hybrids of hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus)
  • Other names: Sharon rose, garden hawk, Syrian marshmallow
  • Genus: Hibiscus
  • Family: Malva plants, Malvaceae
  • Country of origin: China
  • Flowering period: July to September
  • hardy
  • Height: 1 – 2 meters
  • Foliage: mostly glossy dark green, shedding leaves
  • Flower color: white, pink, orange, red, purple, yellow and two-tone
  • Propagation: sowing, cuttings


Like all hibiscus species, the hibiscus high trunk loves sunny to partially shaded locations that are sheltered from the wind. Even if it is a relatively robust and hardy breed, it remains an exotic species. So it’s best to choose a place where you won’t be too exposed to extreme weather conditions.


Calcareous clay soils are ideally suited for the Hibiscus syriacus hybrids. Light and humus soils are also tolerated. In no case should the soil be compacted and acidic. With this type of soil, it only helps to loosen the soil deeply and to help with a little garden lime.


The garden hawk must never dry out completely, that would make it particularly susceptible to pests. The best thing to do in early spring is to ensure that it always gets enough water in dry periods. Regular goats throughout the summer promotes its growth and, above all, a splendid bloom. However, it is also sensitive to waterlogging. So it is important to develop a feeling for the right amount of water over time.

Tip: It is best to give the hibiscus soft rainwater. If not available, leave the tap water to stand overnight before whipping.


The hibiscus tree does not place particularly high demands on the fertilizer. A commercially available fertilizer for flowering plants is sufficient. When planting a bucket, the first application of fertilizer begins as early as March. The other doses depend on whether you are using a slow-release fertilizer or working with a short-term fertilizer. The short-term liquid fertilizer for flowering plants can then be mixed into the irrigation water every two weeks.

In the open field, it is sufficient to apply ripe compost at the beginning of the season in March. If the soil conditions are right, that is enough to enjoy abundant flowering in summer.


When autumn sets its first signs and the hibiscus sheds its last blossoms, then you can start pruning. In the case of a hibiscus tree, too, a distinction is made between upbringing, maintenance and rejuvenation pruning.
Basically, a cut is always carried out early in spring or in autumn, after flowering. If you don’t want to be too precise with the cut, you should do a pruning at least once a year. This is the only way to keep enjoying the shape of the tree and, especially in summer, a rich bloom. The rose hawk only produces flowers on its new shoots.

Cut back

  • each year
  • best in spring
  • shorten all branches to a few eyes
  • take the shape of the crown into account


Young hibiscus trees need a parenting pruning. This gives the shape by supporting the desired branches.

  • cut back all branches except for four eyes
  • Cut back side shoots except for one eye
  • if the crown is the desired height, then
  • completely remove further side shoots

A re-education cut should not be confused with a re-education cut. This is due if you want to grow a sapling from a Hibiscus syriacus bush.

Conservation cut

The maintenance pruning is actually a pruning that ideally takes place twice a year to increase the flowering pleasure and maintain a beautiful shape. The conservation pruning changes into the rejuvenation pruning as the tree ages.

  • cut to shape
  • Thinning out the crown
  • Shorten branches for abundant flowering
  • Remove shooting shoots
Tip: If you prune the flower branches of your hibiscus tree annually after flowering, you can expect not only more flowers, but also larger flowers in the next year.

Taper cut

  • Remove dead branches
  • thin out
  • Topiary
  • in the bucket: shorten the height if necessary, before overwintering


In contrast to the varieties from the rose hibiscus, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, the standard hibiscus hybrids from Hibiscus syriacus are hardy. Only young plants and trees in pots should be protected in winter.

Hibernate young plants outdoors:

  • wrap the trunk with a fleece
  • Put brushwood, mulch, or leaves around the root area

It is best to overwinter the container plant as follows:

In winter quarters

  • Temperature around 10 ° C
  • hell


  • Wrap tubs with foil or sacks
  • Place the bucket on a styrofoam plate
  • Weather protected location


The best thing to do is to plant your new hibiscus tree in the ground in spring. So it has enough time to gather strength and take root before winter. After planting and after a thorough watering, a little mulch is applied around the root area. This prevents the root area from drying out too quickly right from the start.

The hibiscus tree is planted in good potting soil in a tub. From spring onwards you shouldn’t move or turn the bucket if possible. The hibiscus is generally very sensitive to this and sheds flowers and leaves prematurely.


If you like, you can also try to propagate your hibiscus tree. In autumn, after flowering, capsule fruits form. The seed from it can stay in place. In the spring we will see what will become of it. Of course, with special care, the seeds can also be grown in small pots in early spring. However, one should not expect that a hibiscus high trunk will form from it again.

Another, quite uncomplicated, possibility of propagation is to plant cuttings. The branches for this are cut and defoliated in summer. Then you simply put them in the ground and ensure that there is sufficient moisture throughout.


As a rule, hybrids from the Hibiscus syriacus, also called shrub marshmallow, are bred for a hibiscus high stem. The following popular standard strains are available in stores:

Hibiscus syriacus ‚Hamabo’-Stamm

  • hardy, strong growth
  • Flowering period: July to September
  • Blossom: pink with a dark red center
  • Foliage: dark green, autumn color, falls off in winter
  • Height: 1.40 to 2 meters

Hibiscus syriacus ‚Woodbridge‘ – Stamm

  • hardy, easy to care for
  • Flower: pink-red, dark red center
  • Foliage: green, shedding leaves
  • Height: up to 2 meters

Hibiscus syriacus trio-stem hibiscus

  • three trunks, twisted
  • from the three varieties Red Heart (white), Woodbridge (pink), Blue Bird (blue)
  • hardy
  • Height: up to 2 meters

Hibiscus syriacus ‚Red Heart‘ -Stamm

  • Flower: white, center red
  • Late bloomer
  • frosthart
  • slow growth
  • easy-care

Hibiscus syriacus ‚Blue Chiffon‘-Stamm

  • Flower: large, blue-purple, double
  • conditionally hardy
  • growing densely
  • almost sterile flowers

Pull up the trunk yourself

Who is not afraid of the regular re-education or upbringing, can pull a hibiscus tree from a garden hibiscus. Hibiscus grows very slowly, so a little patience is required before you can admire a handsome sapling.

  • young hibiscus with a well-developed main stem
  • cut down all branches on two eyes in early spring
  • do not prune the desired trunk
  • leave around five shoots with one eye each at the top
  • Cut the side shoots on the trunk in between
  • when the desired height is reached, shorten the trunk extension
  • Form a crown starting from the five main branches
  • Pay attention to an even branching
  • then regularly shape the crown, remove all trunk shoots

Diseases & pests

The standard hibiscus in the open air is very robust and less susceptible to diseases and pests. Basically, it is only maintenance errors that make it lose its robustness. Above all dried out roots, followed closely by waterlogging in the root area. Weakened in this way, it becomes susceptible to aphids, spider mites, leaf spot diseases and chlorosis.


The black or green lice sit close together on the young buds and shoots. The only thing that helps here is to rinse them off with water and then regularly spray them with soapy water or nettle broth. Ladybugs are the aphid’s natural enemies.

Spider mites

Spider mite infestation usually occurs when potted plants are overwintered when it is too warm and dry in winter storage. It is essential to check the plant regularly here, because spider mites spread very quickly. A gentle control method then usually no longer helps. The infestation can be seen in the fine webs on the shoot forks and under the leaves.

Leaf spot diseases

As a rule, it is fungal diseases or viruses if the leaves of the hibiscus stem get yellow or brown spots. Here it only helps to notice the infestation as early as possible and to destroy the infested leaves. If the hibiscus is properly cared for and given the right water supply, it can recover.


In the case of chlorosis, the hibiscus tree gets yellow leaves, while the leaf veins are bright green. This is a sign of iron deficiency. But be careful, a special fertilizer alone does not have to bring about any improvement. It may also be that the hawk cannot pull the iron out of the earth. In most cases, this is either due to compacted soil, waterlogging or a root area that is too dry.

Even if the Hibiscus syriacus comes from the warm regions of our earth and needs some care: It rewards with a long and abundant, large flower in clear, magnificent colors. Another great advantage is that the standard hybrids from the hibiscus hibiscus almost all get through the German winter effortlessly.

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