In the kitchen garden, the imposing habit of the horseradish immediately catches the eye. In the typical cottage garden, it is part of the indispensable standard range. However, it is not their up to 60 cm large, lush green leaves or their wonderfully fragrant, snow-white flowers from May to July that make horseradish so popular, but rather their thick taproots. These are white on the inside and, as a grated ingredient, give numerous dishes a spicy, sharp finishing touch. In the southern regions of Germany and Austria, horseradish is also known as horseradish.
Table of Contents
Cultivation of the plants
The edible taproot of the horseradish plant develops several side roots called fechser. These about 30 cm long and 6 mm to 8 mm thick Fechser are planted at an angle in the ground in March or April. The upper end is about 5 cm below the garden soil and the lower end about 10 cm. The planting distance is 40 cm to 50 cm. The row spacing is 60 cm to 80 cm. These seemingly large spacings are necessary because a horseradish plant needs a lot of space around itself. Since it tends to overgrow, it is advisable to plant the Fechser in a bucket with small air holes or to enclose it with a root barrier made of geotextile so that the plant does not displace other garden plants and ultimately mutate into a nuisance. The following growing tips should also be considered:
- Plant only annual, healthy and flexible fechers.
- Nutrient-rich, humus-rich, slightly sandy garden soil.
- The more acidic and leaner the soil, the hotter the horseradish.
- The ideal pH is between 6 and 7.
- The soil must be loose and rootable.
- Enrich the soil with manure or compost 4 to 6 weeks beforehand.
- Water well after planting.
The angle at which the Fechser are planted in the earth requires a little dexterity. If it is too shallow, the taproot will not be strong enough. If it is too steep, the plant shoots into the herb rather than the tasty root forming. Hobby gardeners who are growing horseradish in their garden for the first time will appreciate the horseradish, a special kind of wood that does not leave the right planting angle to chance.
maintenance
If the most important premises for growing horseradish are observed, further care of the plant does not require much effort:
- Water regularly.
- Water daily, especially in dry periods.
- Fertilize with ripe compost in May / June and July / August.
- Weed weeds regularly.
- Remove the side shoots from the upper half of the Fechser in June.
- Rub this part with a cloth to remove the roots of the hair.
- Carry out the measure under blazing sunshine.
- Repeat after 6-8 weeks if necessary.
- Then cover with soil again.
- The result is even, smooth bars.
The purpose of removing the side shoots is to encourage taproot growth and increase crop yield. However, experienced hobby gardeners do not go to work without hesitation, because cuts occur that open the door to root diseases. If the side shoots are not removed, the roots may still be a bit thin and weak in the first year. In this case, it simply remains in the ground until the next year, when it is harvested as a healthy, strong stake of horseradish.
harvest
As soon as the leaves of the horseradish plant wither, this is the signal that the root has stopped growing. Harvesting can begin from September or October and continue in all subsequent months that contain an ‘r’. If the ground does not freeze over in winter, nothing stands in the way of harvesting fresh horseradish stalks even in the cold season. Since horseradish sprouts even the smallest remains of roots, it is important to lift the entire plant out of the ground when harvesting. This is achieved with the help of a spade, which is pushed about 40 cm below the root and then carefully lifted so that any fechers that may be present do not break off. Unwashed horseradish sticks can be stored in damp earth or sand in a cool place for a long time.
Multiply
If you want to multiply your horseradish plant, you can do so easily with the help of the Fechser. Immediately after harvest, they are cut off at an angle from the horseradish stick so that the top and bottom are not confused. Side shoots that are crooked or have bumps are unsuitable for propagation because they will only produce inferior horseradish roots. During the winter they are stuck in earth or sand and wrapped in newspaper and kept in a cool, dry place. The Fechser must never be washed beforehand, because then they are threatened with rot and will not survive the winter. In the next spring they are then planted in the garden at their new location after the potting soil has been enriched with manure or compost a few weeks beforehand.
Mixed culture of horseradish
Hobby gardeners usually practice mixed cultivation in their vegetable garden. This means that you cultivate different types of vegetables and herbs in your garden. In order for this activity to be crowned with success, only those plants are placed in the vicinity that get along well. The cruciferous plant horseradish cannot cope with it at all if other cruciferous vegetables grow in the immediate vicinity, such as radishes, kohlrabi, cress and all kinds of cabbage. On the other hand, there is best agreement with the following garden plants:
- potatoes
- all fruit trees
- Salat
- tomatoes
- Carrots
- Parsely
- fennel
- Dill
Planted at all four corners of the potato patch, horseradish, for example, keeps the slugs away from them. The large leaves lure the pests as a hiding place for the day, where they can then be easily collected. Planted under cherry trees, horseradish prevents the Monilia peak drought. In addition, horseradish is an excellent post-crop of cucumbers, beans and peas. Horseradish, on the other hand, is completely incompatible with itself. This means that the cultivation should take place in a different location every year, with a crop rotation of at least three years.
Diseases and pests
Although horseradish brew plays a role in biological pest control, the plant itself is not immune to infection and attack. Among the fleas, one species has specialized in infesting horseradish, the horseradish flea. Their larvae dig into the ground to the roots and eat them. Since these pests prefer a dry and warm soil, it is advisable to water and spread fresh, moist mulch regularly. It is also helpful to use the broom to cause unrest by sweeping over again and again. The frightened fleas jump away and usually cannot find their way back to the horseradish.
Horseradish blackness caused by a fungus (Verticillium albo-atrum) causes more serious damage. First the leaves wither and dry up. Then rot spots appear on the roots, which become glassy and brittle at the same time. Effective control agents have not yet been developed. Therefore, infected horseradish plants must be completely removed and must never be disposed of on the compost. As a preventive measure, only a small amount of fertilizer should be used and the recommended crop rotation should be strictly observed. Every fechser that is used in cultivation must be thoroughly examined for its health.
Probably the most important pest that can tamper with the horseradish plant is the cabbage white butterfly. The moth is 50 mm long, white and has a black head. While the first generation does their mischief on wild plants from April to June, it is the second generation that is also dangerous for horseradish in July and August. The leaves are completely eaten bare by the larvae, which means that the roots wither and rot. The following control methods are available:
- Cover plants with nets or fronds of ferns.
- Mulch made from tansy or peppermint drives away the moths.
- Preventive application of spray containing no spray.
- Plant thyme between horseradish.
- Collect the caterpillars daily.
Natural enemies of the cabbage white butterfly and the larvae, besides birds, are primarily parasitic wasps. These can be purchased in garden centers and immediately pounce on the voracious larvae. Incidentally, the infestation by the cabbage white butterfly is one of the few cases in which the nettle liquid manure does not help as a biological control agent. Rather, the opposite is the case, because the pest is attracted as a result of the application.
Japanese horseradish – the hot rarity for the bucket
In addition to the domestic horseradish (Armoracia rusticana), the cruciferous family has another member that is native to Asia. Japanese horseradish (Eutrema japonicum), also called wasabi, is not only much smaller, but also much hotter than the classic version. A height of up to 60 cm and the small, edible rhizomes with a diameter of 3 cm make the Japanese horseradish the ideal candidate for cultivation in the tub. The early flowering from March to May adorns the balcony and terrace. Since wasabi likes to be in the shade, it can also be used to fill difficult areas in the garden. For healthy growth, the plant needs a nutrient-rich, humus-rich, permeable substrate that is abundantly watered. Japanese horseradish is a perennial plant, but does not tolerate frosty temperatures. It is therefore necessary to spend the winter in the house. Incidentally, the leaves and stems of Japanese horseradish can also be used in the kitchen in addition to the roots. Together with wine vinegar and salt, the famous wasabi paste is created in the mixer, which is only available as a finished product in special delicatessen shops at an expensive price.
Conclusion
The history of horseradish goes back to antiquity, because people knew early on to appreciate the aromatic flavor with the sparkling heat. Horseradish, as horseradish is called in many parts of Germany, is an integral part of numerous dishes to this day. Growing, caring for and harvesting are quite straightforward, but they require a certain amount of time. It is not for nothing that an old farmer’s saying goes: ‘A field with horseradish wants to see its master every day’. Even the cultivation is unusual, because every single Fechser has to go into the ground at an angle, but not too at an angle. There, gardening enthusiasts will not leave them alone, because at least twice a season the roots are partially dug up and freed from side shoots. When harvesting it is important to really remove all parts of the plant, otherwise it will continue to grow happily. At the end of the day, the hard-working hobby gardener can of course expect a fresh, aromatic treat that cannot be offered by purchased horseradish in a glass or tube.
