If a hydrangea, which is also known botanically as a hydrangea, does not sprout, this does not necessarily mean that the plant has died. There are various reasons that delay the point in time, but can also mean that the shrub does not bud as strongly as usual. With a few measures, the shrub can be reactivated at least enough so that it has a good basis for the next year.

Shoots grow early

When the shoots sprout cannot be determined exactly and depends on the weather. If the winter is very mild and wet, the hydrangea may start opening buds as early as February. In principle, this is not a problem as long as it doesn’t get wintery again.

As a rule, however, most varieties do not begin to sprout until March. If hardly anything happens to the plant by April, you should investigate why the hydrangea is not budding.

frost damage

Frost damage can mean a massive loss of shoots and is one of the most common reasons why no shoots form. The upper area in particular is massively damaged and with a bit of luck shoots will form near the ground, which at least ensures the survival of the plant.

It will not bloom this year under any circumstances, it can even take several years for the hydrangea to recover from severe frost damage. But as long as there are still a few shoots, gardeners do not have to give up hope and can bring the perennial to new splendor.

Care after frost damage:

  • Cut off dead plant material
  • loosen soil
  • supply plants with nutrients
  • no more pruning in late autumn
  • maximum topiary in early fall
  • Protect the plant from frost in the future with a cover
Note: Not every type of hydrangea can be cut in autumn. If you are not sure whether your species should be cut back in autumn or spring, you should only cut it in spring to be on the safe side.

plant too young

One reason why hydrangeas thrive only moderately is the age of the plant itself. Very young plants in particular, which have just been pulled from sticks, like to take a little more time in spring. With such perennials just wait and see. After two to three years, the drive will also increase if you take good care of it.

Lack of nutrient supply

Hydrangeas like to be planted in places where there are few opportunities for flowering plants. They tolerate shady locations, but must be supplied with nutrients regularly. When it comes to fertilizer, however, the shrub is picky. The wrong fertilizer can also be a reason why the hydrangea does not drive. Commercial flower fertilizers are not suitable for her, because she needs a special fertilizer for hydrangeas, which consists of the following components:

  • a lot of nitrogen and potassium
  • lots of iron, manganese, sulfur and zinc
  • little phosphorus

The hydrangea appreciates a lot of nitrogen, but only likes little phosphorus, which, however, makes up a large proportion of normal perennial fertilizer. If no suitable fertilizer is available for hydrangeas, a fertilizer for azaleas or rhododendrons can alternatively be used.

Tip: Hydrangeas like humus from the forest, which has the ideal composition. A few buckets of forest soil worked around the plants replace any fertilizer from the specialist trade and not only promote beautiful shoots, but also vigorous flowering.

Wrong location

Although the hydrangea is very flexible in terms of light conditions, a location that is too shady can postpone the time of budding. Very shady spots mean that it takes longer for the snow to melt, the soil takes longer to warm up and unless the conditions are right, the shoots will not show.

The ideal location for hydrangeas looks like this:

  • sunny to semi-shady
  • no to moderate competition from other plants
  • sheltered from the wind

It is often sufficient to provide the hydrangea with some light, for example by cutting trees or shrubs in the immediate vicinity. If the hydrangea is used as underplanting for trees, pruning or thinning out the crown of the tree should be regular maintenance measures. They not only promote healthy development of the tree, but also give the hydrangea the chance to develop well.

If you cannot improve the light conditions, which means that the hydrangea only blooms weakly or very late, you should consider changing the location of the plant.

Wrong floor

Not only the location can delay the time of budding by weeks, the soil conditions can also be responsible for the plant taking its time with the shoot. Hydrangeas love slightly acidic soil, which should always be taken into account when planting new plants. It is sufficient if special soil for hydrangeas is worked into the soil. Alternatively, you can also use some compost from the forest.

So that the hydrangea has a slightly acidic soil in the long term, you can mulch with leaves. This naturally keeps the soil acidic and the rotted leaves even add nutrients to the soil.

cutting error

A very common problem, which not only delays budding, but can even damage the plant permanently, is the wrong cut . In the case of radical pruning because the plant has grown too large, there is a high risk that the willingness to shoot will be slowed down next year. Care cuts should therefore only be carried out in emergencies in the fall. Because that also destroys the systems for the next year. In spring, the buds can at least be guessed at and pruning can be planned better so that not too many are removed.

Cutting back faded flowers has no effect on the shoots. This can take place immediately after flowering, in autumn, but no later than spring of the following year.

The hydrangea is a very easy-care perennial that only requires a few care measures. Above all, the location and a wrong cut are the reasons why the hydrangea does not drive. But too much shade also affects the hydrangea. With simple measures, however, the shoots can be forced and the plant rewards this with beautiful flowers.

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