Marsh marigolds need a lot of moisture. They thrive best at the edge or in shallow water zones of a garden pond. It is good if they always keep their feet in the water. The water level is allowed to change, but the soil should never dry out. As a substrate, the plants need a nutrient-rich, heavy and humus-rich soil. If these two conditions are to your satisfaction, the marsh marigold grows and blooms vigorously, long and spreads. Otherwise there is almost nothing to do in terms of maintenance. You can find out what needs to be considered during care in our text. Continue reading!
Table of Contents
Characteristics
- Ranunculaceae family
- Also known as lard flower, buttercup, eggplant, meadow gold or gold rose
- About 10 species
- Is widespread in Europe, in temperate and northern Asia, in northern and arctic North America
- Perennial herbaceous plant
- 15 to 50 cm high
- Has strong rhizomes
- Grows upright to slightly arching
- Heart- to kidney-shaped leaves, slightly toothed
- Simple, golden-yellow, shiny bowl-shaped flowers, rare varieties also white
- Flowers from March to April, depending on the location also until June
- Occasional second flowering from July to October
- Can self-pollinate by rain pollination
- Small follicles
- Slightly toxic to toxic!!!
- Symptoms of poisoning in sensitive people just by touching it
- Skin and mucous membrane irritation, occasional swelling of the face
- Consumption may cause dizziness, vomiting and cramps
Interesting Varieties
As more and more ponds and streams are being created in home gardens, the marsh marigold has become a popular plant. Through numerous gardening efforts, some interesting new varieties of Caltha palustris have emerged in recent years.
- Caltha palustris ‘Monstrosa’ – pompom-like, very double and large flowers in yellow, 15 to 25 cm high, flowers from April to May, often later, high nutrient requirements, quite rarely available
- C. palustris ‘Flore Pleno’ – very densely filled yellow flowers, flowers from March to April and in September, up to 30 cm high, cut back a little after flowering for fresh flora and against mildew
- Caltha palustris var. Alba – white flowers, single, flowers a little earlier (March to May), squat growth, 15 to 25 cm high, low-lime soil, also thrives in quite the shade, better not in direct water, just keep moist
- ‘Auenwald’ – yellow, single flowers from April to May, 15 to 25 cm high, particularly rich in flowers, flowers often have 1 or 2 petals more than the wild form, good moor plant
- ‘Gold Bowl’ – strong orange-yellow single flowers, plus reddish flower stalks, should be cut back after flowering so that they do not self-seed (not varietal)
- ‘Multiplex’ – double, golden-yellow flowers, flowers a little earlier, frequent repeat flowers in midsummer, needs a sunny spot and very nutrient-rich soil, 15 to 20 cm high
- ‘Honigtau’ – large single flowers in lemon yellow, plenty of foliage, English variety, rarely available from us
- ‘Plena’ – double double flower in chrome yellow or golden yellow, very early flowering, blooms slowly, when opening it looks as if the flower is sitting on a saucer, later like a ball, spreads little
- ‘Stagnalis’ – single yolk-yellow flowers, spreads quickly, even over large areas, not for small ponds and gardens, flowers in April, gets quite tall, English variety
- Caltha palustris var. radicans – miniature marsh marigold – small, but plentiful yellow single flowers, ideal for small ponds, flowering April/May, only about 10 cm high, rare, English variety
The care of the marsh marigold
Unfortunately, the marsh marigold has become quite rare in the wild. Many wet meadows are drained, streams are straightened and ditches are piped. Because they are easier to mow, more and more meadows are being leveled, eliminating depressions and hollows. However, the plants feel most comfortable precisely where the water can collect. In some federal states, the marsh marigold is therefore already on the red list. It’s a good thing that it’s now appearing in home gardens again. It is important that you do not take the plants from nature, but buy them in stores.
In the ideal location, marsh marigolds require almost no care. They do well at the edge of a pond. In the pond they are best placed in a plant basket. If koi live in the pond, the basket must be weighed down with river pebbles, otherwise they will drag it around and like to tear out the plants. You can save watering with pond culture, but of course not so much water should evaporate that the marsh marigolds suddenly stand on dry land. Fertilizing the pond promotes algae growth. You hardly have to cut. In most cases, hibernation does not cause any problems. Propagation is easy, by seed or division. Diseases and pests are rare.
location
In its natural environment, the marsh marigold grows in marshy meadows, at springs, streams and ditches. She loves changing water levels. In the garden she likes similar, slightly damp conditions. It doesn’t have to be a pond, but dry locations are absolutely unsuitable.
- Sunny to semi-shady
- If the location is too dark, long, misshapen shoots form. The compact growth is lost.
- A place in the shallow water zone (moist and swamp zone) of a pond is ideal
- Maximum water depth 10 cm
- No water flow!
- Alternatively, moist and humus-rich beds
- No dry locations
plant substrate
The most important thing for the plant substrate is that it is permanently moist. Most species and varieties like it really wet. They stand well in the pond. Of course, normal garden soil must not be used there. When planting in beds, the soil must be really nice and moist.
- Prefers nutrient-rich or groundwater-moist, humus-rich loam and clay soils
- In any case, the soil should be heavy and well soaked
- Some varieties prefer slightly acidic soil
- Others like calcareous substrates
- All like a nutrient-rich substrate
plant
Pond plants are best placed in special plant baskets. They can keep well there and spreading is prevented as far as possible, or can be cut well. This is how you get runners under control if you want to prevent propagation.
- When planting in a small pond, a plant basket should be used. This keeps the plants in place and prevents them from spreading uncontrollably.
- Loose substrate can be used in larger ponds (from 15 m²) with a larger edge zone. This allows the plants to develop and spread better.
- Plant in groups, 3 to 5 plants in small tuffs
- Planting distance 20 to 30 cm
- No strong spreading neighboring plants
watering and fertilizing
Watering is not necessary if the plants are in water. You should be very careful with fertilizing the pond, because nutrients promote the formation of algae. When cultivating in the bed, care should be taken to ensure that the soil always remains properly moist to wet.
- Provide plenty of moisture in the bed.
- You can fertilize well here.
- It is advisable to work in compost or horn shavings in the spring.
To cut
You don’t have much to cut with marsh marigolds. The plants die above ground in autumn. They move in and overwinter in the rootstock. They can easily be removed in spring by twisting them off.
hibernate
Marsh marigolds are very robust and hardy. You don’t need any protection. However, you have to be careful in the spring when the pond is covered and cleaned. The buds are already established and tear off quickly. You have to be very careful about that.
multiply
The marsh marigold propagates itself with the help of its underground rhizomes. Where she feels comfortable, she can form dense carpets. Otherwise it can be propagated by sowing and dividing. Double varieties can only be propagated vegetatively.
About seeds
- Direct sowing on the spot
- Kaltkeimer
- Plant bowls without drainage holes are also suitable
- Cover the seeds very lightly with soil
- It takes a while for the seedlings to show up
By division after flowering
Double varieties only by vegetative propagation, they are sterile. Simply cut off underground runners and plant them separately.
diseases and pests
Marsh marigolds are robust and healthy. Diseases are quite rare. Powdery mildew may appear in dry and hot weather. Rust fungi also occur from time to time.
- Rust Fungi – Recognized by elongated, rust-brown pustules along the leaves. These leave dusty spores behind. Often triggered by nutrient deficiencies. Affected leaves should be cut off and discarded. Under no circumstances should they be put in the compost. Disinfect cutting tools afterwards so that the spores are not transferred.
- Powdery mildew – recognizable by mealy, white to gray deposits on the leaves. Prevent by thinning the leaves in summer when it is hot. You can fight it by spraying it with a water-milk mixture (9:1), which is of course unfavorable in the pond. It is helpful to cut back and remove all affected parts.
Frequently Asked Questions
The seeds are quite different in color. Why is that?
This can be explained by the different degrees of maturity. This is important if you want to sow seeds. The green seeds are absolutely immature and will not sprout. They are not suitable for propagation.
How deep can the marsh marigold stand in the water?
Not too deep. The heart of the plant should sit no more than 5 cm under water. The plants are best placed on the bank, at the edge of the pond, so to speak. The name says it all, marshy area and at the edge of the pond it is accordingly, unless the edges are too steep and the plants cannot find a hold there. If the roots are too deep, for example in plant baskets, the plants will not grow well and only form small leaves and few flowers.