Nectarine tree, nectarine – plants, care and diseases

Well-stocked tree nurseries offer the nectarine tree as a container plant and with bare roots. Since these are self-pollinating plants, all you need to do is buy one for a test run in your own garden. Since the nectarine does not have a particularly robust constitution due to its origin, the choice of the location is of decisive importance:

• Sunny, warm and sheltered location.
• Nutrient-rich, humus-rich and moist soil.
• Low-lime, slightly acidic potting soil.

Experienced gardeners choose a place on the south side of the garden based on the recommended site conditions. The required distance from the house should at least correspond to the expected height of the nectarine tree of 4 to 6 meters. If the border to the neighboring property is in the immediate vicinity, it is advisable to inquire about the local regulations regarding the planting border with the municipality or city administration.

Set the container tree correctly

The decisive advantage of a fruit tree in a container is that it can be planted all year round as long as the ground is not frozen:

• The planting hole is twice as large as the root ball.
• Enrich the excavation to 30% with garden compost.
• Loosen the sole thoroughly with the digging fork.
• Peel off the pot and scratch three 0.5 cm deep crosses in the balls.
• Immerse the root ball in water until no more air bubbles are visible.
• Insert the nectarine tree into the hole as straight as possible.
• Drive in a support post next to the root ball.
• Fill the planting hole with the soil-compost mixture and step on it.
• The root ball is covered with soil a maximum of 1 cm high.
• Form a pouring edge that slopes down towards the center.
• Connect the tree trunk and the support post with a wide strip of bast.

Careful scratching of the root ball is particularly advisable if the container is very densely rooted. The minor injuries to the roots heal quickly. In return, the young tree will spread its roots much faster and form new ones.

Plant the bare-rooted nectarine tree correctly

The period extends from mid-October to mid-May, during which time bare-root fruit trees come into the ground. With regard to the preparation of the soil, there are no differences to the process of planting nectarine in a container. In addition, the knowledgeable gardening enthusiast proceeds as follows:

• Cut out all kinks and breaks on the roots.
• Shorten the roots to a length of approx. 30 cm.
• Reduce the shoots by 1/3.
• Place in water up to the root neck for 1 hour.
• The planting hole is 1.5 times deeper than the length of the roots.
• A helping hand places the young tree vertically in the planting hole.
• If necessary, drive a support post into the ground.
• While the earth is being shoveled in, gently pull up the nectarine.
• The root neck must be flush with the surface.
• Step on, put on the pouring rim and water abundantly.

In whatever form the young nectarine is planted; Finally, the knowledgeable gardening enthusiast spreads a thick layer of mulch on the planting site. In the event that the soil quality turns out to be more dry than damp, he fills the planting hole 3/4 of the way with the substrate, thoroughly slurries everything and only then pours in the remaining soil, which also receives a well-measured dose of irrigation water.

Put the nectarine tree in the bucket

Much more often than in the bed, nectarine can be found in decorative planters on balconies and patios. With this form of cultivation, the hobby gardener has more leeway with regard to the choice of location and can convert the fruit tree, which is sensitive to the cold, into a protective winter quarters.

• A suitable bucket has a capacity of at least 30 liters.
• There is a drainage hole for excess irrigation water.
• Lay a drainage over the opening made of gravel, perlite or potsherds.
• Cover the drainage with a garden fleece that is permeable to water and air.
• The substrate is a mixture of garden soil, compost and horn shavings.
• Spread a layer of substrate over the drainage.
• Position the nectarine in the middle and dig in.
• The substrate ends a few centimeters below the edge of the tub.
• Possibly place a support next to the trunk and tie it up.
• In the last step, water the nectarine tree well.

Experienced hobby gardeners put the bucket with the nectarine on a mobile coaster right from the start, so that it can be easily maneuvered if necessary.

maintenance

Once the hobby gardener has assigned his nectarine tree an adequate location, only a few maintenance measures are required:

• Water the tree regularly for the first year.
• Remove the support pole in the course of the second year at the latest.
• From the second year onwards, only water when it is dry.
• Mulching will keep the root area moist and warm.
• Apply a complete fertilizer in spring and summer.
• Smooth out damage caused by browsing by hares and rabbits with a knife.
• Winter protection for roots, trunk and crown required.
• Place in the bucket in frost-free, light winter quarters.

When the cold season approaches, the nectarine receives winter protection outdoors in the form of a straw, brushwood or leaf cover in the root area. Wooden boards are leaned against the trunk to protect them from the winter sun. The crown is covered with garden fleece, bubble wrap or jute mats.

To cut

The majority of hobby gardeners let the young nectarine grow unhindered in the first two years. In the third year at the latest, a cut is made to maintain the vitality and shape of the tree. Unlike most other fruit trees, the nectarine tree is pruned in April or early May. Since it always bears its fruit on the shoots of the previous year, the hobby gardener must be able to recognize where the flowers are between two leaf buds. These branches should not get acquainted with the scissors, because it is there that the desired fruits will be formed. All other shoots may be cut:

• Remove all dead wood.
• Cut branches that grow inward.
• Cut branches that are pointing upwards (water shoots).
• Thinning out a crown that is too thick.
• Prune shoots nibbled by game.
• Never cut below a bud.
• Do not crush the branches with the tool.
• Diagonally cut shoots heal faster.
• Also remove the saplings at the base of the tree.

Too hesitant pruning does more harm to the nectarine tree than pruning it a little too vigorously. As a rule of thumb, at least a third of the shoot is cut off.

Diseases and pests

If you follow the instructions on planting and caring for the nectarine, you will noticeably promote its vitality and resilience. Nevertheless it can happen that it is attacked by diseases and pests, the most important of which are explained below:

The disease
is caused by the fungus called Taphrina deformans, which specializes in nectarine, peach and almond trees. An infection shows up as soon as it sprouts in the form of curled leaves, covered with green or red blisters. In the worst case, branches or the entire tree will die off or only a few flowers and fruits will appear. The hose fungus feeds exclusively on dead plant material, needs a lot of moisture to spread and stops its activities at temperatures above 16 ° Celsius. The control methods are accordingly:

• Plant the tree on a roofed house wall.
• Protect with a tarpaulin when it rains.
• Always remove all fruit mummies.
• Cut off dead and stunted branches.
• Preferably plant resistant varieties.
• Spray with plant strengthener in early spring.

Effective fungicides are only allowed in commercial fruit growing. When the curled leaves show up in the home garden, it is too late to fight.

Monilia fruit rot
Another fungal disease has attacked the nectarines when they show ring-shaped, brownish rot spots. The spores of Monilia fructigena and Monilia laxa use even the smallest wound on the fruit to infect it. Since there is no effective preparation available against Monilia fruit rot either, biologically oriented approaches are required:

• Immediately remove infected fruits from the tree and the ground.
• Do not dispose of on the compost, but in the household waste.
• Set up wasp traps to prevent them from stinging the bowl.
• Cut and thin the tree regularly.
• Spray with horsetail extract in early spring.

Forsythia, golden bells and almond trees act as indicator plants for Monilia disease. These early bloomers are first attacked by the fungus in the garden and reveal this through withered flowers and dried up leaves. Experienced gardening enthusiasts therefore observe the pointer plants with eagle eyes and cut them back radically into healthy wood at the first signs of disease. Thanks to this measure, the chances are good that the nectarine tree will not also be infected.

Aphids
If the nectarine does not really want to thrive in spring, the buds simply fall off and the leaves appear crippled, then the suspicion arises that aphids are tampering with the nectarine tree. Action is now required to prevent the pests from spreading explosively:

• Hang glue traps in the tree.
• Use organic insecticide made from neem oil extract.
• Fasten flower pots filled with wood wool for ear peasants in the tree.
• Nest boxes attract tits that eat aphids.
• Spray several times with manure from field horsetail.
• Injections made from diluted milk drive the pests away.

Rings of glue have proven to be one of the most effective weapons in the fight against aphids on the nectarine. If they are attached to the tree trunk in good time and exactly as instructed, they not only prevent aphids from their destructive work, but also mercilessly repel all pests that can crawl up a trunk.

Popular types of nectarines

Since nectarine is so popular, diligent breeders have tried to develop more attractive varieties:

Nectarines “Nectaros” (Prunus nuciperisa “Nectaros”)

• Growth height up to 400 cm
• strong growth of up to 50 cm per year
• richly bearing variety
• juicy, sweet and aromatic fruits
• Harvest from the end of August

Dwarf Nectarines (Prunus nuciperisca)

• Height of growth 100 cm to 150 cm
• ideal for the bucket
• beautiful pink flowers
• Flowering period March and April
• Ripe for consumption in August and September

Nectarines ‘Fantasia’ (Prunus nuciperisca ‘Fantasia’)

• Growth height up to a maximum of 400 cm
• very beautiful pink flowers from March onwards
• Mixed red and yellow fruits
• first harvest in the 2nd year of standing

Nectarines ‘Flavortop’ (Prunus nuciperisca ‘Flavortop’)

• Height of growth 300 cm to 400 cm
• perfect for the small garden
• yellow fruits with red coloring
• Harvest possible in the first year of standing

Tellernektarine ‚Mesembrine‘ (Prunus nuciperisca ‚Mesembrine‘)

• Growth height up to 300 cm
• Buschiger Attitude
• unusual flattened deep red fruits
• can also be pulled on the trellis
• Harvest from July

Nektarine ‚Kuresia ‘(Prunus nuciperisca‚ Kuresia)

• Height of growth 300 cm to 400 cm
• one of the most resistant varieties
• delivers particularly tasty nectarines
• Harvest from the 2nd year of standing

Aroma-Nectarines ‘Maria Aurelia’ (Prunus nuciperisca ‘Maria Aurelia’)

• Low trunk height of 200 to 250 cm
• climbs up to 300 cm on the trellis
• great red-cheeked fruits
• beautiful white flowers from April
• Harvest from the 2nd year of standing

Professionally managed tree nurseries usually offer nectarines as a low trunk, as a half trunk or on a bamboo stick for the trellis.

Conclusion
If you do not like the half-ripe harvested, cooled to 0 ° Celsius and therefore not very aromatic nectarines from the supermarket, it is best to grow the fruit trees yourself. If the frugal plant finds a sunny, warm and rain-protected location, it will delight garden enthusiasts in spring with wonderful white or pink flowers. Depending on the variety, the ripe fruits can be eaten straight from the tree as early as July. Care is limited to a little fertilization, regular cutting and vigilance against diseases and pests.