In summer they conjure up an opulent blaze of color on balconies and terraces. We are talking about petunias, which have become an indispensable part of the life of many hobby gardeners. Many hybrid varieties are now commercially available, which make the care of the impressive, herbaceous plants even easier. Although petunias are anything but undemanding and robust, their willingness to flower makes them a very popular ornamental plant.
Table of Contents
location and soil
In order to be able to enjoy the full splendor of the flowers, all the requirements for the planting site must be met:
- Petunias need a very sunny location.
- Half-shady places visibly reduce the growth of the South American plant.
- Protection from wind and rain should be guaranteed.
- Normal potting soil mixed is sufficient.
- Humus-rich substrate from the garden can also be used.
In order to increase the water flow and at the same time counteract waterlogging, you can also add small amounts of sand to the soil.
watering and fertilizing
Petunias are easy to grow, but they are anything but undemanding. The herbaceous plants need large amounts of water, but at the same time they have to be protected from waterlogging.
- The substrate of the Petunia must never dry out completely.
- Water two to three times a day on hot summer days.
- Use drainage to prevent waterlogging.
- Use stagnant rainwater for watering.
In order to drain excess water from the substrate and planter more quickly, you can use a thicker layer of gravel, lava grit or styrofoam balls on the bottom of the container.
The plants cultivated on the balcony and in hanging baskets are among the most consuming plants. Petunias need an enormous amount of nutrients to form their lush flowers. A need that cannot be adequately covered by compost in the substrate.
- fertilize with conventional universal fertilizer
- Special fertilizer for flowering plants is also suitable.
For optimal formation of the flowers, you should ensure that the fertilizer has a high phosphorus content. In order to distribute the supplied nutrients evenly over the substrate, use a liquid fertilizer. You can easily add this to the irrigation water and supply several petunias with minerals at the same time. Pay close attention to the enclosed instructions to avoid over-fertilizing the ornamental plants.
Note: To avoid damage, never water directly over the leaves and flowers of the petunia.
multiply
The summer flowers are usually only cultivated once a year. In order to be able to enjoy the distinctive balcony and terrace beauty in the following year, you do not have to resort to plants from specialist shops. Because petunias can easily be grown from seeds you have collected yourself.
For seed collection, do not immediately remove all wilted petunia flowers and shoots. The seed pods ripen immediately after flowering and must be cut off with sharp scissors before they burst open.
Once the seed pod has turned brown, pinch it away from the rest of the plant.
- Open and dry the capsule
- the best time for propagation is in February
- Prepare planters and fill them with conventional potting soil
- Scatter the seeds evenly into the containers and cover lightly with substrate
- Moisten the substrate regularly until germination
- Petunias need a warm climate and high humidity to germinate
- wrap the planters in a transparent film and perforate it
- Avoid direct sunlight during the cultivation phase
- As soon as the first shoot tips appear, remove the foil
- Prick out the individual plants from a size of approx. 8 centimeters
- Give seedlings a minimum distance of about 15 centimeters
- Place young petunias in their final location between the end of April and the beginning of May
- In the first few days, slowly get used to the direct sun, if necessary work with tools such as a parasol and cardboard walls.
In order to quickly turn your balcony or terrace into a blooming oasis, you can also take offshoots from the nightshade plants in summer.
- Cut a 6-8 inch side shoot from the petunia
- Cut off all flowers completely
- Remove the leaves to 5 centimeters
- Place the offshoot in a glass of lime-free water
- Root formation takes about two to three weeks
- Then cultivate the offshoot as usual
plant
The type of planting depends on which of the numerous petunia varieties you have chosen. In recent years, numerous hybrid varieties have appeared on the market. Many not only defy the first frost, but also no longer react sensitively to rain showers. These petunia varieties are also suitable for planting in ordinary flower beds.
The following steps are appropriate for any type of cultivation:
- Loosen up the soil.
- Mix large amounts of compost under the substrate.
- Give long-term fertilizer under the potting soil.
- Also take measures against waterlogging outdoors.
- Insert plants carefully and press down the substrate firmly.
- Water sufficiently and keep moist.
Transform your terrace or balcony into a colorful sea of flowers with mini and hanging petunias. Choose large, high-quality planters for the ornamental plants. These must not only protect the nightshade plants from windthrow, but must also not inhibit the growth of the petunias.
- Prepare the drainage at the bottom of the pot and fill it up with some substrate.
- Slow-release fertilizer provides petunias with important nutrients immediately.
- Maintain a planting distance of 15 centimetres.
- Water regularly and remove weeds.
Arrange the planters – in a suitable location – according to your own taste. However, always ensure that the planters are securely fastened. These can reach a high weight due to the lush growing ornamental plants.
To cut
A special cut is not necessary for the ornamental plants. Only remove faded inflorescences and withered shoots and leaves. This encourages the petunias to grow and form new flowers. Larger shoots that have been cut off can be used as offshoots.
hibernate
When it comes to the question of whether and how petunias will survive the cold season, many gardeners have different opinions. In general, it is possible to get the nightshade family through the cold season unscathed:
- Cut back heavily before moving into winter quarters.
- Move indoors by the end of September at the latest.
- A bright, cool room is suitable.
- Temperatures should be between 5 – 10°C.
- Avoid dry heating air.
- Water only moderately and do not fertilize additionally.
- Put back outdoors in the following year after the frost.
To avoid burning the leaves, slowly acclimate the petunias to the first direct rays of the sun. It is up to you whether you protect the plants with a parasol or choose a semi-shady place to start with.
Hibernation is not always successful. It is often due to pest infestation, room air that is too dry or a lack of moisture. As a precaution, remove a few seeds so that you don’t have to do without your distinctive oasis of flowers in the following year.
care tips
In order to be able to enjoy the petunias you have bought or grown yourself for a long time, the following tips are recommended:
- Use terracotta pots. Because these store the moisture better than plant bowls made of plastic.
- Do not choose the planter too small so that the roots of the petunia do not “suffocate”.
- Protect the flowers from torrential downpours and windthrow.
- If you don’t need seeds, remove wilted flowers and shoots as soon as possible. Otherwise, the plants would put the necessary energy into seed formation instead of into new blossoming.
- Mix long-term fertilizer under the substrate during planting.
- Remove excess water from the coaster immediately.
- Store the seeds in a dry and cool place until sowing.
- Protect the nightshade plants adequately from wind damage.
pests
Aphids – These sucking insects are among the most well-known pests in the world. Aphids are true survivors and not exactly picky about their host plants. If there is a strong overpopulation, shoots and leaves wither, and the honeydew excreted by the lice attracts ants and bees. Treating densely planted petunias is difficult, but by no means impossible.
- Soft soap and stinging nettle decoction have proven their worth.
- Aphids are the favorite food of ladybugs.
- Use chemicals sparingly and according to package instructions.
Whitefly – Also known as whiteflies, these insects are common on petunias. Heat and high humidity promote infestation. The pests also feel very comfortable in a winter quarter that is too warm and continue to multiply rapidly. An infestation is expressed by yellowed leaves that slowly wither and a sticky coating on the upper side of the leaves. However, there are a few ways to get rid of the tropical insect:
- Place the petunias in an airy spot.
- Rely on sticky yellow boards.
- Natural predators are also helpful.
- Hose down with a soft soap solution.
- Use chemical insecticides if necessary.
Numerous chemical products for effective control of whitefly are available in specialist shops. However, only use these remedies if all other measures have been ineffective and your petunias are suffering from severe overpopulation.
Diseases
Powdery Mildew – A white coating on the shoots and leaves of petunias could be an indication of powdery mildew. The spreading fungus deprives the plant’s outer epidermal cells of important nutrients, which is why the affected regions slowly wither and eventually die.
- Generously remove infected plant parts.
- Use a mixture of milk and whey.
Powdery mildew requires live host plants, so you can safely dispose of the removed petunia parts on the garden compost. There is no reinfection – also for other plants.
Root Rot – Like many plants, petunias are very susceptible to root rot. This is formed by long-lasting waterlogging or poor drainage of rainwater. Even before a musty smell escapes from the substrate, the plant is visibly taking care of itself and discarding leaves and flowers.
- Transfer to dry substrate.
- Do not remove rotting roots.
- Water only moderately in the coming days.
Root rot treatment is not always successful. Therefore, make sure that excess irrigation water can drain off without any problems and that it does not accumulate permanently in the outer pots.
