Primroses, primula – location, planting and care, varieties

Primin is a contact allergen with one of the strongest sensitization potencies of all. Primin is found in the fine hairs on the stems and underside of the leaves. The substance is even detectable in the flowers. Even the slightest touch breaks the hairs and can penetrate the skin. If the leaves and stems are wilted, the primin also rises to the surface and there is an even higher risk of allergies. The hands are usually particularly affected. Eczema appears, initially tiny blisters that itch, break open and ooze. The eczema is spreading. It hurts and is very uncomfortable. I am also an allergy sufferer. But things aren’t that bad. When I’m dealing with primroses, I put on disposable gloves and they work great.

Primrose species and varieties

There are over 500 species of primula. I am only listing some of the most common ones here, otherwise things would get out of hand.

• Globe primroses (Primula denticulata) – comes from the humid mountain meadows of the Himalayas, can be recognized by their spherical corolla on a longer stalk, grows to about 30 cm high, flowers in numerous colors (white, blue, violet, red and pink), flowers in April
  • ‘Rubin’ – Pink cultivar with a small yellow centre
  • ‘Alba’ – white spherical flower

• Pillow Primrose (Primula vulgaris) – one of the best selling plants ever, bright flowers in many colors and color combinations, propagates by seed, self seeding, one of the most common primroses
  • Hybrid ‘Miss Indigo’ – blue flowers with delicate white edges
  • ‘Lilac Sensation’ – purple with white border

• Cowslip (Primula veris) – also called cowslip, is under protection, fragrant yellow flowers in spring, spreads through self-seeding
• Japanese primrose (Primula japanica) – flower color depending on the variety in pink, purple or white, flowers from May, 40 to 50 cm high, propagation by division, comes from Japan and Taiwan
  • ‘Atropurpurea’ – showy crimson flowers
  • ‘Postford White’ – white flowers with a red eye, unfortunately now often with a yellow eye

• Carnival primrose (Primula vulgaris subsp. Sibthorpii) – flowers first, often as early as February, originally comes from the eastern Balkans, flowers in pink, red and purple to yellow tones, self-sowing, suitable for naturalising
• Auricula (Primula auricula) – originally from the Alps, many varieties are collector’s items, beautiful color combinations of the flowers, flowering in April, caution: all parts of the plant are poisonous!!!
  • ‘Lisa’s Smile’ – Warm yellow flowers with a large white eye
  • ‘Elizabeth Killelay’ – maroon flowers edged with yellow, historic cultivar

• Orchid Primrose (Primula vialii) – resembles a native orchid, the orchid. Originates from China, looks very exotic, flowers from June, flower shape is completely different from that of the usual species, flower is flask-shaped
• Candelabra primula (Primula chungensis) – blooms between June and July, bright yellow flowers with an orange-red tinge in loose whorls one above the other
• Rose primrose (Primula rosea) – comes from the wet meadows and swamps of the Himalayas, flowers on the stem like the ball primrose, but does not form a ball, flowers from April, flowers crimson
  • Crosses with Primula clarkei and Primula warshewskiana produced robust, large-flowered varieties such as ‘Johanna’

• Sibold’s primrose (Primula sieboldii) – flowers on the flower stem, 5 to 15 flowers each in pink to lilac-violet, rarely white, flowering period from May, comes from south-eastern Siberia, the northern provinces of China and Japan
  • ‘Snowflake’ white, very large flowers

• Cup primrose (Primula obconica) – flowers on the flower stem, comparatively large flowers in pink to lavender-pink, rarely white, not hardy, often sold as a houseplant, comes from Southeast and East Asia, known as poison primrose because its glandular hairs cause skin irritation on contact and can cause allergic reactions
  • ‘Touch me’ Twilly series – specially bred with significantly less primin, pink-white flowers, also available in other colours

Special Varieties

• Primula ‘Belarina Cream’ – numerous large, creamy white double flowers with a light yolk yellow base
• Primula Belarina ‘Nectarine’ – yellow double flowers with a rich pink border
• P. Belarina ‘Miss Indigo’ – violet-blue double flowers with a white border
• P. ‘Fringed Mix’ – very large, mostly semi-double flowers of various colors on one plant, almost always with a yellow center and ruffled petal edges

The care of the various primula

The various types of primrose have very different requirements for their location. Many like it sunny, others semi-shady. Most love fresh, humus-rich soil. While some prefer to stand on the edge of a pond, others can cope quite well with drought.

By the way, cushion primrose and some other types of primula can also be cultivated as houseplants. They just don’t last long at temperatures above 15°C. As in nature, they do not like direct sun and air that is too dry. If the leaves wilt quickly, you have overwatered. But watering too little is not good either. The plant substrate should never dry out completely, better always be slightly damp. When the primroses have faded, they do not need to be thrown away. It is better to plant them in the garden. In the right location, they thrive for many years and also spread through self-sowing. They form dense flowering carpets.

location

The location varies for each species. Almost everyone doesn’t like the midday sun. Many prefer to stand in the light shade, under trees, without bright sunlight. But there are exceptions, which like the sun very much. These usually also have other demands on the soil.

• Globe primrose – partially shaded, ideal in the light shade of trees and walls and at the edges of ponds
• Pillow primrose – cool, so rather semi-shady and shady, light shade is best
• Carnival primrose – very good in partial shade under trees, does not like open garden soil
• Orchid primrose – semi-shady or shady, good between trees and shrubs
• Layered primrose – partially shaded, best under trees and shrubs
• Rose primrose – sunny to partially shaded location
• Auricula – mostly cultivated in planters, need a bright location, likes the sun, but preferably no midday sun
• Cowslips – one of the few species that like it sunny

plant substrate

There are also clear differences in the plant substrate. Most primroses are not demanding, but some have their own peculiarities. It’s always good to know what you’ve bought.

• Globe primrose – moist, humus rich garden soils
• Pillow primrose – moist substrate, but not standing water, loamy soil is ideal
• Auricula – absolutely permeable substrate, does not tolerate moisture, prefers dry soil, needs lime
• Orchid Primrose – moist, humus rich soil
• Tiered primrose – likes damp meadows and wooded swampy soil, humus-rich soil is important
• Rose primrose – moist substrate, tolerates even waterlogging and especially likes it on the bank of a stream or pond
• Cowslip – permeable, rather dry soil, especially no winter wetness

plant

There is not much to consider when planting. Most primroses are bought in the spring and put directly into the field. Potted plants should definitely be planted out in the garden after they have faded.

• Plants can be planted all year round except during frost
• Before planting, soak the root ball in water until no more air bubbles rise.
• Work a good amount of compost into the soil when planting
• Press down the soil, but don’t trample it down
• Water well

watering and fertilizing

Most primroses do not like really dry soil. They love something wet. The soil should not dry out. Therefore it is important to water frequently. The sunnier the plants are, the more water they need after all. However, waterlogging must be avoided at all costs. Primroses are happy about a load of compost in the spring. Further fertilizing throughout the year is then usually not necessary.

• Water regularly
• Don’t drown
• Don’t let the soil dry out
• Adding fertilizer or compost once a year is enough

To cut

Primroses generally do not have to be cut. However, it makes sense to regularly remove faded flowers so that new flowers have an easier time fighting through. Removing will prevent seeds from forming. In this way you can suppress the unwanted spreading of the plants. It also costs the primroses strength to form the seeds. It is better if they put this energy into the formation of new flowers.

hibernate

Primroses are sufficiently hardy. They can also be planted in winter, but only if they have been raised outdoors. Incidentally, the primroses that are often sold in stores and can be bought at the beginning of the year were mostly grown in greenhouses. They are not hardy and cannot tolerate sub-zero temperatures. Blossoms of freshly planted primroses should be covered with fleece during frost.

Overwintering primroses as a houseplant is usually not worthwhile. If you still want to try it, you have to keep the containers cool and bright. The cooler the temperatures, the less watering is allowed. However, the plant substrate should not dry out completely.

multiply

Each species can be propagated in different ways. Many reproduce by self-seeding. This works best in loamy soils. Otherwise, for some species, however, sharing is a good option or, of course, targeted sowing. Root cuttings are also possible. To do this, however, the primrose must have very strong roots. Simple sharing is usually more appropriate.

• It is best to sow directly outdoors. Since some primroses are cold germs, the seeds are planted in the ground from November to February.
• Cold germs are: cowslip, ball primrose and forest primrose
• Another option is to use seed boxes. Cover the seeds 3 mm with sand and moisten everything well.
• Close seed boxes and place outside at temperatures between 10 and 15°C. The seeds germinate at 10 to 12°C. When the first leaves are visible, the lid can be removed.
• Cushion primroses – bloom less profusely over the years and should therefore be divided. Replant the individual parts. This also has the advantage that the colors appear stronger again.

diseases and pests

Actually, primroses are quite healthy and robust. If there are problems, it is usually due to incorrect care. Too much or too little water is being poured, the water is too cold or too hard, or there were too big temperature differences. Waterlogging must be avoided as well as ball dryness.

• Cup primroses are sensitive to salt.
• Cushion primroses are prone to leaf spot diseases. Affected leaves should be removed
• Vine weevils appear as pests. You can recognize the infestation by the typical signs of feeding.
• If the soil is too wet, the leaves will turn yellow and mushy. This is the same for all types of primroses.
• Primroses tend to be infested with aphids.

Conclusion
Primroses are simply part of spring. Its numerous flowers in bright colors are the first bright spots in the garden. The buds will last for a while in a warm living room, but the conditions are not ideal. A cool location is better. Freshly bought primroses should not be exposed to too cold temperatures and above all not to sub-zero temperatures. They have been raised in greenhouses and need to get used to being outdoors. Primroses can be planted out and come back quite reliably. They are easy-care garden plants that also spread out in a good location and consequently form dense carpets. I can only recommend primroses as a herald of spring.