Propagate orchids – offshoots (Kindel) and division

Unfortunately, the propagation of orchids is not as trivial as with some other houseplant. As a rule, orchids do not form seed pods that can simply be sown, nor do shoots grow that can be cut and planted as cuttings. In principle, there are only three simple methods left to multiply the plants. And these methods are only possible if the plant wants it to be. In all cases it is an asexual increase. This means that you get completely identical duplicates of the mother plant:

• Propagation via offshoots (also called Kindel or Keiki)
• Multiplication by division
• Propagation by head cuttings

Although there are other ways of propagating orchids for professionals, these can usually not be done at home or on the windowsill:

• Propagation through meristems (young tissue is removed and processed further in the laboratory in nutrient solution).
• Propagation by seeds (if a seed capsule is formed by pollination, the seeds usually have to be grown in special nutrient media in a sterile environment).

Risk of infection with orchids

Orchids are very susceptible to bacterial or fungal infections. Experts advise disinfecting the interface with activated charcoal powder or sulfur when cutting or in the event of injuries. In addition, all utensils or equipment that the orchid comes into contact with should be thoroughly cleaned or even disinfected beforehand. This is especially necessary if you have already been in use elsewhere:

• Cutting devices such as knives, scissors or razor blades
• Flower pots
• Plant pots

Propagation by offshoots (Kindel)

Sometimes leaves suddenly develop on the orchid where flowers should actually appear. In Phalaenopsis this phenomenon occurs on the flower stem, in other species on the bulbs. Bulbs are the balloon-like swellings at the lower end of the plant, from which the leaves grow out at the top. These offshoots, also called Kindel or Keiki, are the best chance for successful propagation. Kindels occur, for example, in the following common genera of the orchid family, whereby their external appearance differs significantly from each other:

1. The orchid consists of a vertical stem axis, at the center of which new leaves are formed on the right and left. For example with Phalaenopsis and Vanda
2. The plants have bulbous parts of the shoot in the lower area, which are also called bulbs or pseudobulbs. Water is stored in these thickenings. The roots of these genera grow horizontally, with new plants constantly developing at their ends. For example with Dendrobium, Cattleya and Cymbidium.

After the first joy about the offspring, the orchid lover now has to be patient. At least two leaves, three to four are better, and several roots a few centimeters long are necessary for the child to be able to survive on its own. Until then, it will be supplied with water and all the nutrients it needs from the mother plant. This state is then reached after at least six months – often only after a year. In principle, the larger the offshoot, the higher its chances of survival.

• Spray the child with water during the growth phase.
• If leaves are forming but no roots, help is needed.
• To do this, put the moist substrate in a small plastic bag, pierce a few air holes and carefully attach to the lower part of the child (for example with a rubber).
• Alternatively: tying moss around the lower part of the child.
• Spray the moss with water every day.
• Is the plant big enough or the stem on which it sits slowly turns yellow: Separate from the mother plant.
• The best time to do this: from the end of April.
• During this time, the increasing supply of light offers better chances of survival.
• A very sharp knife is used to cut.
• The small orchid is now planted in the orchid substrate.
• Moisten the substrate.
• Put as many roots as possible in the substrate.
• Be careful, the small roots break easily!

In order to grow properly, the new orchid now needs a lot of humidity. To ensure this, the young plant is either placed in a small window greenhouse or a transparent plastic bag is put over the pot, in which there are some air holes. To prevent the substrate from rotting or mold, it must be thoroughly ventilated once a day. After a few weeks, if the soil is well rooted, the plastic bag can be removed.

Multiplication by sharing

Dividing as a method of propagation only works with genera of the orchid that have bulbs. The possibility of division does not exist with the Phalaenopsis. Really large orchid plants that have already turned blooming are significantly rejuvenated as they are divided.

• A division can only be made for larger plants.
• Minimum requirement: more than eight bulbs and two new shoots in different directions of growth.
• It is better to wait a little longer before dividing the orchid.
• A good time for division: when the orchid is to be repotted anyway.
• In this way, additional stress and disruptions are avoided or at least minimized.
• Carefully detach the intertwined roots from one another.
• Be careful not to tear off or break off as few roots as possible.
• If some roots are nevertheless damaged: Cut off with sharp, very clean scissors.
• Cut the connections between the bulbs, called rhizomes, with a sharp, sterile knife or secateurs.
• Really divisible plants sometimes fall apart almost all by themselves.
• Each section must contain at least four bulbs.
• Put both parts in separate, sufficiently large and, above all, clean containers.

Propagation by head cuttings

Some species are suitable for propagation by head cuttings. Air roots form in the upper third of the plant – often in climbing species such as Epidendrum or Vanda.

• Attach moss to the roots to support root formation.
• Dust the moss nest with water from the spray bottle every day.
• As soon as the roots have grown a few centimeters: separation from the mother plant.
• To do this, cut off the upper part of the plant below the newly formed roots with a sharp, clean knife or razor blade and plant.

The right orchid substrate for young plants

The orchid’s greatest enemy is rot. In nature, the plants grow on huge trees and feed primarily on nutrients from the air and rainwater. If orchids are covered with potting soil, they will rot within a few weeks. Therefore, especially with the sensitive young plants, a special, commercially available orchid soil should be used. This usually consists of:

• Yields
• peat
• Styropor

It is important that the substrate holds the water, but is otherwise very air-permeable. When buying, you should make sure that the peat content is not too high. If the substrate is very coarse, i.e. the individual pieces of bark are very large, it should be crushed a little before potting a young plant, i.e. the child, in order to adapt it to the still tender roots. A substrate especially for young plants is also available from specialist retailers.

Planting

The young orchid does not necessarily have to be planted in a pot with substrate. A very nice alternative is to put it on and tie it to a piece of wood, a branch or a root. With this method, it’s important to embed the root area in moss so that the roots can get enough moisture. The moss nest can then be wrapped with a wire to secure the plant to the ground and to hold the moss together.

When potting in a plastic pot, as much roots as possible should be carefully inserted slightly down into the pot and covered with orchid soil. The longer the roots have grown, the easier it is to bend them. However, since the roots are very inflexible when they are only a few centimeters long, this procedure should never be carried out with force, otherwise they will break off. Now fill the substrate in portions between the roots. Firm placement on the subsurface facilitates the distribution of the substrate. Pressing and compressing with the fingers is not permitted, as this also causes the roots to break off.

• Use special orchid pots: In the bottom area there is an elevation in the middle and many drainage holes.
• It is not necessary to choose a transparent pot.
• Additional protection against waterlogging: pour a layer of granules or expanded clay into the planter.
• Planter: always at least two sizes too big to ensure good ventilation.
• The roots can largely fill the new pot.
• Let the loose substrate trickle in portions between the roots.
• Every now and then, hit the pot lightly on a firm surface so that no cavities are formed that are too large.
• The next repotting will not be necessary for two or three years.

Fertilizing and watering of young plants

When fertilizing the children, less is sometimes more. Orchids are true starvation artists once they are large, but they should be provided with a few additional nutrients for the first growth and the formation of the aerial roots necessary for survival.

• Commercially available orchid fertilizer
• Note: Use a significantly lower concentration on the young plants than it says on the packaging.
• Usually a few drops of the fertilizer in the irrigation water are enough.
• Period of fertilization: spring and summer
• Interval: every two to four weeks.
• Always water with fertilizer-free water between fertilizing.
• Use rainwater or stale, room temperature water.
• Water young plants a little more often than adult plants.
• Water about twice a week, or even better, dive.
• The same applies here: never allow waterlogging in the pot.
• Optimal solution: Pour outside the planter and let all excess water run off first.

Conclusion
Anyone who is lucky enough that their orchid is diligently forming new bulbs or even kindles, actually only needs a good deal of patience to propagate the plant. Because in order to be able to survive, the small plants need enough time to form their own roots. As long as this is not the case, they must absolutely remain on the mother plant. Frequent spraying with water or the application of moss can promote root growth. Once the roots have grown several inches long, it’s time to cut them off and plant them in shredded orchid soil.