Cut orchids – instructions for pruning

• Only use sterile, freshly cleaned cutting tools
• Do not cut into living shoots
• If possible, find out the exact species before cutting the orchid
• If there are signs of disease, disinfect the cutting tools between each shoot, even if only one plant is being cut
• Keep cutting the orchid to a minimum

The disinfection of scissors or knives is particularly important and should be done with boiling water, alcohol or disinfectant.

Multi-shoot species

Orchids are basically divided into multi- and single-shoot species. This distinction is not only important for general care, but also for cutting orchids.
The multi-shoot species include:

• Phalaenopsis
• Oncidium papilio
• Oncidium kramerianum
• Cypripedium
• Miltoniopsis

However, the term multi-shoot is somewhat misleading, since it does not just mean the current presence of several shoots. Instead, these species are capable of sprouting multiple times from the same shoot. This makes cutting these orchids much easier. So much so, in fact, that you don’t even need instructions to cut it back.

Unipod species

Single shoot orchid species are not necessarily plants with only one shoot. Instead, new flowers simply do not sprout from old inflorescences. In these species, on the other hand, a completely new shoot develops from the lower part of the plant. They include, among others:

• Cambria
• Paphiopedilen
• Cymbidium
• Cattleya
• Dendrobium

A pruning after the flowers have withered and fallen off is therefore possible without any problems. However, it is not necessary for these species either. Alternatively, you can wait until the stem has discolored or completely dried up. After that, you don’t have to use scissors either. Plucking out the parts of the plant is usually easier and much more thorough than cutting the orchid, since no residue is left behind.

inflorescences

Orchids are usually sold or given away when they are in bloom. If the flowers fall off, many want to grab the scissors and remove the bare stalks. In the case of multi-shoot orchids, however, this would be to the detriment of the beauty. Even after the shoots have faded, do not cut back immediately, as this would destroy the chance of subsequent flowers or new side shoots from the faded stem. These are only blended when they have turned completely yellow or brown or have dried up.

In some cases only a piece or even just the tip can dry out, even then only this part is removed in such a way that the living tissue is not cut. This may not look very decorative at times, but it can allow for several new side shoots or renewed flowering. Of course, the other conditions must also be right for this.

leaves

Whether they have one or more shoots, all orchids occasionally discolor or dry out some of the leaves. Some species even drop all their leaves after flowering and are completely bare during dormancy. This is normal, but depending on the species, it can also be a sign of disease or pest infestation.

It is advisable to research as much information as possible about the cultivated species and to carry out regular checks.
The pruning of the leaves is possible but not necessary when withering. Again, you can and should wait until they are completely dry or discolored. If they are withered or dried up, a strong tug on the respective leaf is usually enough to remove it completely and without damaging the plant. Do not proceed timidly here, otherwise residues will remain. If you don’t dare to do this, you should rather use small, sharp scissors. With such, you can work very close to the living parts of the plant.

Bulben

When cultivating orchids, the language very often comes to bulbs. Beginners in plant care usually do not know what it is about.
The term bulbs refers to the storage organs, which are usually located at the lower ends of the leaves and are significantly thickened. Since the orchid attaches itself to this one supply, they should of course not be removed.

Nevertheless, this measure may be necessary, for example if the plant is to be repotted or kept compact. In some cases it is also optically advantageous, especially when the bulbs no longer have any leaves and thus spoil the appearance.
It should be noted that:

• A disinfected, sharp knife is used
• The orchid still has at least five bulbs after pruning
• The wet interfaces are disinfected and cared for

root

Not only when repotting can you notice that parts of the roots are dried up, withered or greasy. Such sections must of course be removed.

If the ends have dried out, pruning is done so as not to cut into the living area. Of course, this cannot be avoided in the case of withered or greasy roots, which is why the moist interfaces must be treated accordingly afterwards.

aerial roots

In the long run, many orchids develop so-called aerial roots, which then protrude above the substrate and pot. They can be visually disturbing, but they fulfill several functions at the same time. They stabilize the above-ground part of the plant, absorb water, oxygen and even nutrients and are therefore important for the care of the orchid. The aerial roots are correspondingly important, which is why they must never be cut off. This would cause great damage to the plant and could even lead to it dying.

Anyone who cannot get used to the sight can at least prevent the formation of new aerial roots. It is then advisable to repot the plant. As well as spraying with water, increasing overall humidity and providing better nutrition. In addition to fertilizing, a change of substrate is often sufficient. A strong formation of many aerial roots is therefore always an indication that there is a deficiency. Can be missing:

• water
• oxygen
• nutrient

Compacted substrate, an undersupply of nutrients or dry air are the most common reasons. The plant tries to ensure an adequate supply via the aerial roots. If these deficiencies are compensated for in other ways, the orchid will stop forming new aerial roots. Existing ones also often dry off and can then be easily plucked off. However, they should not be underestimated as a warning signal.

Corrections for diseases

In the event of parasitic or disease damage, it may be necessary to remove parts of the orchid. If these are not already dried up or withered, the interfaces must also be cleaned and protected after the measure. Otherwise, further damage and rot may occur.

risks

A pruning of the orchid may be necessary, but not only has advantages to offer. If not done correctly, blending involves risks. Below:

• Increased susceptibility to diseases
• Easier penetration of malware into the open interfaces
• Infestation with rot or mold
• Reduction of stored nutrients and consequent dying of the orchid
• Permanent absence of flowering

However, these potential adverse consequences can be avoided if the instructions described are followed. It is also important to ensure that scissors and knives are clean. These must be cleaned thoroughly before pruning so that they do not introduce any germs or pests into the interfaces. In addition, you always have to pay attention to appropriate protection when you cut into living areas. Such openings make the crop particularly vulnerable and therefore require appropriate treatment, which is described below.

protection

As mentioned, damp interfaces are particularly susceptible to germs and pests. Some protection is therefore necessary until they have dried and closed.

This can be reached in different ways:

• Disinfect interfaces, for example with special products from specialist shops, hand disinfectants or alcohol
• Cover with a pad of clean tissue such as gauze or bandage
• Use wound closure for plants
• Rub with charcoal powder, cinnamon or sulfur
• Ensure sufficient ventilation
• Remove any infested plants from the area

In addition, it should of course be checked regularly afterwards whether the interfaces show any pathological changes. Only in this way can appropriate treatment be initiated as quickly as possible.

Is a blend necessary at all?

Unlike many other plants, a blend does not make an orchid more luxuriant or dense in growth, and it also rids itself of unnecessary parts by drying out. A cut is therefore only really necessary if leaves and shoots affected by diseases or pests have to be removed.

All other measures basically only serve to improve the appearance of the plant or to keep the growth small. However, as mentioned, it is not absolutely necessary to carry out a pruning. Plucking off is also sufficient and is often faster, easier and safer for the orchid than cutting the respective parts, especially with thin stems or flat leaves.

Vegetative propagation

The vegetative propagation of orchid species with bulbs is also possible by cutting and is surprisingly easy. A sharp knife or pruning shears is required. Whatever the choice of cutting tool, it must be absolutely clean and free of germs.
In addition, the orchid should have at least eight bulbs in total.

The propagation is then proceeded as follows:

1. The orchid is freed from the pot and the entire substrate, the roots are thoroughly rinsed.
2. Large and older orchids that have already prepared themselves for division often fall apart at this point. Of course, you can then do without a knife or scissors.
3. If the plant has not already divided itself, it can be divided with the cutting tool in the middle in the area of ​​the roots. Care should be taken to ensure straight, smooth cutting surfaces in order to keep the risk to the plant as small as possible. In addition, each half of the orchid should have at least four bulbs.
4. The resulting plant halves should then lie in the dry for a few hours without substrate so that the interfaces can dry off. Only then are they returned to the substrate. Wetting or even watering should wait a few days to avoid rotting the open root ends.

Incidentally, this cut not only serves to propagate the orchid, but also has a rejuvenating and stimulating effect on the plant. As new roots, storage organs and leaves are formed again, the plant becomes more active and blooms again. Even if it is not a matter of letting one orchid grow into two, dividing it can make sense and helps prevent the loss of flowering power.