Raspberry bush: location and care from A to Z | Raspberry bush

The raspberry bush can be found commercially in numerous varieties, all of which differ slightly in their properties. In addition to different harvest periods and various disease resistances, it is also the taste characteristics that a raspberry bush tries to convince with. But good taste is ultimately an individual matter.

Before buying, just take enough time to carefully examine the descriptions of the individual varieties. Reach for the variety that suits you best.

Whichever raspberry bush you choose, always make sure that the plant material is above all healthy. Raspberry crops suffer from a number of diseases that are often already visible in young plants and, if they are careless or ignorant, are brought into the garden when they are bought.

Optimal location and soil requirements

Raspberries are humble plants to which exaggerated claims are alien when cultivated in the garden. However, the sun, with its warmth and brightness, has to reach it unhindered, otherwise a lush harvest remains just a dream.

• reserve the sunniest spot
• Sun from morning to evening is ideal
• no shade-giving plants nearby
• also no other obstacles on the south side

A raspberry bush drives out very long but comparatively thin rods that cannot withstand a strong wind. Even if they are tied to a supporting trellis, the planting site should still be protected from the wind.

A loose and humus garden soil forms the ideal basis for shallow-rooted raspberry bushes. The soil, which encourages the plants to produce many berry fruits, is also slightly acidic with a pH value between 5.5-6.

• a slightly higher pH value is tolerated
• Too high a pH value, on the other hand, leads to a lack of iron and manganese
• this turns the leaves yellowish (chlorosis)

A sandy soil is not necessarily an obstacle, because it can be upgraded to a worthwhile raspberry location with the addition of compost or rotted manure.

• mulch regularly
• Pay attention to moist soil during fruiting
• water more often if necessary

On the other hand, if the soil is too firm, it would have to be loosened up with sand so that water can seep away at all.

Ideal planting time

The best season for planting soft fruit is and remains autumn; this also applies without restriction to a raspberry bush.

• Prefer autumn planting
• plant in spring only in exceptional cases
• but then as early as possible

A raspberry bush that is offered in a container can theoretically be planted in the garden all year round – with the exception of frosty days. However, this should not hide the fact that not every point in time is equally good. In particular, high temperatures cause stress for the plant, which is not necessarily conducive to successful and rapid rooting.

Plant out step by step

When planting raspberries, start with choosing the right location, which, in addition to the features described above, should also offer sufficient space. If several plants are planted at the same time, which is usually the case, it is conveniently done in rows. Only in this way can a single scaffolding serve as a common support.

• The planting distance between two bushes is 40-50 cm
• Row spacing for several rows is 150 cm
• never plant more closely
• every raspberry bush must stand airy and be able to dry off well

1. Loosen the soil well.
2. Be sure to remove all weeds and roots.
3. Dig a sufficiently large planting hole for each raspberry bush. It is essential to keep the required planting distance.
4. Insert the young plants so deep that you can then cover the soil buds with about 5 cm of soil.
5. Water the plants.
6. Cover the soil with rotted manure, coarse compost, or lawn clippings.
7. Finally, shorten the shoots to 20-30 cm in length.

Planting container goods The procedure described above applies to the planting of container goods. However, there are two exceptions: the root ball should be watered thoroughly before planting. To do this, the container pot is completely submerged under water until the earth has absorbed enough water and no more bubbles rise. Unlike with bare-root specimens, no pruning is required after planting.Bucket culture
The raspberry bush was a typical garden plant for a long time. Smaller varieties are now also available so that the delicious berries can also be cultivated on the balcony:

• choose a large bucket with at least 25 l capacity
• Drainage holes and a drainage layer are mandatory
• plant in humus garden soil
• fertilize more often and water regularly
• if necessary, connect to supporting rods
• prune back after harvest

Simple trellis framework

A few raspberry varieties are now available with stable shoots that can safely defy the winds and bear the weight of the berries even without a supporting structure. Most raspberry varieties, however, depend on a framework, which should ideally be available to them as soon as they are planted.

• a simple wire frame is usually sufficient
• at the end of the row come two impregnated wooden stakes
• Knock about 50 cm into the ground
• should protrude at least 1.80 m
• stretch wires in between
• each in 60, 120 and 170 cm heights
• Late-bearing varieties can also get by with two rows of wires
• each at a height of 60 and 80 cm
• Tie rods to it

For raspberry varieties that bear twice, two bamboo sticks per plant are also tied to the wire frame at regular intervals. The two-year-old shoots are tied to the left stick and the two-year-olds to the right. It is of course also possible the other way round; it should only be kept this way for all plants.

Knot grating as an alternative
A knot grating is stretched and fastened over the raspberry plants at a height of 1 m on four stable posts. The rods of the raspberry plants grow through the openings in the grid and at the same time find support. A wide-meshed wire mesh or a climbing net is ideal, as is a knot grid from the building needs.

V-frame for summer
raspberries The shoots of summer raspberries can be spread out on a V-shaped trellis so that each individual shoot receives sufficient air, light and warmth.
On a large, stable and 2 m high post, three cross braces are attached at heights of 60, 120 and 170 cm, their length increasing towards the top. Several wires or cords are then stretched diagonally to create a v-shape. The rods are tied to these wires.

Fertilizing and watering

Enriching the soil with compost during planting and regular mulching with organic matter provides the berries with plenty of nutrients. The nutrient depot also has to be replenished annually through fertilization.

• Compost or rotted manure are good long-term fertilizers
• apply in spring
• or use commercially available organic-mineral complete fertilizers
• observe the manufacturer’s information here
• Use blue fertilizer containing magnesium if necessary

Additional fertilization with carbonate of lime should only be used if the pH value of the soil falls below 5.5-6. A soil survey should be carried out regularly to determine whether this is the case.

Raspberry plants do not tolerate soil that is too wet or severe drought. Since their roots spread only shallowly under the surface of the earth, they cannot absorb moisture from the depths of the earth if necessary.

• water regularly
• as soon as the top layer of soil dries up
• The watering amount depends on the weather
• the need for water is great during fruit formation
• however, do not water too much at once
• Waterlogging causes roots to rot
• Do not wet leaves, branches and fruits with water

Useful layer of mulch

The raspberry bush spreads its roots flat under the surface of the earth. That is why the soil must not be loosened after planting in order not to damage the roots. Otherwise, growth delays can quickly occur. Mulching raspberry beds makes sense because it combines several advantages and makes maintenance much easier. The root-damaging chopping can be omitted.

• the mulch layer prevents weeds
• the few copies can easily be pulled out
• The surface of the earth does not dry out that quickly
• reduces the casting intervals
• the decomposition provides new nutrients

Cut once-bearing varieties

Anyone who cultivates a raspberry bush has to use scissors every year. But the cut is not a book with seven seals.

• cut off all harvested rods close to the ground
• Remove weak and too dense new shoots
• 8-12 rods per meter of planting row is sufficient
• Dig up shoots far from the rhizome
• Keep the row in shape
• shorten long shoots to 2 m in spring

Cut twice-bearing varieties
With a twice-bearing raspberry bush, all shoots are cut off either in winter or in early spring. The reason is that these varieties only ever produce their fruits on annual shoots. In June, the weakest of all newly driven routes will be cut off again, leaving only 8-12 pieces per meter.

harvest

Depending on the variety, the harvest time can begin as early as the end of June and last until the first frost.

• Fruits ripen one after the other on the raspberry bush
• only fully ripe berries are harvested
• if they are really red in color (except for yellow varieties)
• when ripe, they can simply be removed from the cone
• test the taste if necessary

Raspberry fruits can become overripe very quickly. They are therefore picked promptly at intervals of a few days. In summer this has to be done every day because of the warmth.

Multiplication

The propagation of raspberry plants is very easy, because an existing raspberry bush itself provides new growth every year. In autumn or spring, the strongest saplings can be separated from the mother plant and planted in a new location. However, this is only worthwhile:

• when the mother plant bears abundantly
• if the fruits have a good taste
• if the plants are healthy, ie virus-free

Winter protection

An old raspberry bush does not need any protective measures in winter. The situation is different with young plants. Light frost protection makes sense for them:

• a thick blanket of mulch
• Cover with fir branches
• Straw or fleece

Raspberries that grow in pots are also more sensitive to frost and should therefore overwinter in a protected place. The bucket is wrapped with plant fleece so that the cold cannot reach the roots with full force.

Diseases and pests

A misplaced and inadequately cared for raspberry bush is prone to diseases, including:

• Botrytis fruit rot
• Raspberry rod disease
• Phytophthora root rot
• Raspberry Mosaic Virus
• Dwarfism disease
• Raspberry rust

If your raspberry plants are no longer looking healthy, you should find out the cause as soon as possible and take possible measures. In order to save yourself the trouble of fighting, you can also rely on resistant varieties right from the start. Otherwise, good care prevents many diseases.

Aphids and spider mites are common visitors to raspberry plants. But raspberry beetles, raspberry gall mosquitoes and raspberry blossoms can also cause damage.

• Rinse lice and mites from the leaves with a jet of water
• spray several times with a soapy solution
• Use lacewing larvae and predatory mites
• An insecticide can help against the other pests
• Cut off severely infested and damaged rods and dispose of them

Conclusion
Raspberries are a delicious snack that is particularly fresh and organic in your own garden. For this, mindfulness is required in the care, so that the shrubs really lack nothing. However, if the care is as desired, they will stay healthy and a rich harvest is assured year after year.