Reed is ideal for large natural ponds, regardless of whether they are used as a swimming pond or just as an ornamental pond. This reed plant, which produces many runners, is rather unsuitable for small ponds and those that have been laid out with pond liner. Care is easy if you do a few things right from the start. The rhizomes should be planted in a bucket right away, which limits the spread and makes maintenance easier. We have compiled everything else you need to know about the culture of the reed for you. Continue reading!

Characteristics

  • Belongs to the sweet grasses, it is also a meadow grass
  • Often referred to simply as reed or common reed
  • Distributed almost worldwide
  • Grows in reed beds near lakes and slow-flowing waters
  • Three subspecies: dwarf reed, common reed, giant reed
  • swamp plant
  • Can grow up to 4 m tall, giant form up to 10 m
  • Suitable as a privacy screen
  • Leaves blue-grey
  • Flower spikes up to 50 cm long
  • Flowering from July to September
  • Fruits ripe in December
  • Great coloration from blue-green to yellow in autumn
  • Forms runners up to 10 m long
  • Ideal for water purification in swimming ponds

sorts

  • Phragmites australis ssp. australis – common reed – up to about 4 m high, ideal for clarifiers, most used variety
  • Phragmites australis ssp. humilis – dwarf reed, up to 1.20 m high, just as rampant
  • Phragmtes australis ‘Candy Stripe’ – white green foliage, can grow to 1.5m tall
  • ‘Variegatus’ – slow-growing, only 1.5 m tall, yellow-green leaves
  • ‘Aurea’ – bright reeds, showy yellow-green variegated leaves, can reach 2m tall
  • ‘Pseudodonax’ – up to 5 m tall

maintenance

Phragmites australis has many good qualities that make the reed so popular in many ponds. For example, it is colonized by microorganisms that release antibacterial substances into the water. In this way, it is freed from pathogens as it flows through. That is why reeds are so popular for cleaning waste water and swimming ponds. It is used to naturally maintain good water quality without the use of chemicals. The principle is simple. The reed draws plenty of nitrogen, phosphate compounds and other nutrients from the water. This alone clears the water. Despite fishing in the pond and intensive feeding, algae blooms are prevented, at least as far as possible. In addition, the reed destroys salmonella and coli bacteria and contributes to water hygiene, especially in swimming ponds. Substances that have a similar effect to antibiotics settle in the root area of ​​the reed.

However, reeds also contribute to the silting up of water bodies. Over time, a lot of mud accumulates between the numerous and dense stalks, and the body of water silts up bit by bit.

Note: reeds are unsuitable for liner ponds. The strong roots will damage the foil. It just gets pierced. Although it is often stated that the plants are only unsuitable for the rim and shallow water zones, but because reeds spread so widely, it is often difficult to keep an eye on all the rhizomes. One that steals away and explores the area on its own is enough to do a lot of damage.

Alternatively, a large bucket can be used as a planter. But you have to check this regularly so that no rhizome that grows over the edge remains undetected.

location

Reed grows in the reed zone of standing and slow-flowing water and is therefore best kept at the edge of a garden pond. Depending on the type and variety, it should be planted more or less deep in the water.

  • Water depth up to 1 m, preferably in the edge area
  • Slow-growing varieties only up to 40 cm deep in the water
  • A sunny water’s edge is ideal
  • Also feels comfortable at the temporarily dried-up water edge
  • Fluctuating water levels are not a problem
  • Sun is important for reeds, but a partially shaded place is also sufficient
  • Sensitive to strong waves

plant substrate

It is important for the plant substrate that it is rich in nutrients and quite heavy. The roots need support. However, reeds are also satisfied with less suitable soil, mostly at least. In the best conditions, it naturally grows vigorously and spreads.

  • Mud and mud soils that are not too cold, contain nitrogen and are rich in bases, but are low in oxygen
  • Nutritious – high nutrient requirements, but can also handle fluctuations
  • Quiet heavy soils
  • Soaked soil is also sufficient
  • However, it also grows in gravel and sand

plant

There are a few things to consider when planting. The plants grow vigorously. To curb this, it makes sense to plant them in buckets and put them in the water. This limits the massive spread and you have less work. However, if you want to achieve a large-scale protection, you have to use several buckets.

  • Plant flat, in large colonies
  • Planting distance 20 to 50 cm
  • Can be planted at any time, except during frost
  • Concrete is well suited as a planter, but very heavy
  • Better is rot-proof geotextile, which is laid around the root ball to a depth of 50 cm
  • The vessels must not be too small either, because then they inhibit growth too much
  • Water holes are important so that water can flow. However, rhizomes also use these holes
  • That is why geotextile barriers are ideal. They can be easily removed from the water along with their contents.

watering and fertilizing

Watering is of course not necessary if the reeds are growing in the water. However, if the water level falls sharply in the summer when it is very hot, water must be discharged. There is nothing for plants to stay dry for a long time. Fertilizer does not necessarily belong in the garden pond either. The water is usually rich enough. Caution: High nutrient requirement

To cut

Cutting the stalks is not an act. It’s done quickly. Where you have to be careful, however, is that the long rhizomes do not spread too much. These rhizomes have to be trimmed regularly, otherwise it doesn’t take long and everything is overgrown with reeds.

  • Can be cut in autumn, but doesn’t have to be
  • Leaves and seeds look very pretty in winter
  • They also protect against frost
  • Only cut back in early spring, just before they sprout
  • Cut radically to just above the bottom
Tip: Anyone who cuts down reeds in autumn should cut off the stalks slightly below the water surface. This enables further gas exchange between the pond bottom and the water surface, even if the pond is frozen over. In addition, this prevents water from getting into the cavities and then freezing in frost. This would destroy the stalks by expanding.

In addition, the clippings should not be composted.

hibernate

Reed is sufficiently hardy. You really don’t have to do anything else. If you want, you can tie the stalks together, make bundles out of them, which of course depends on the area that the reed occupies. Large areas are simply left as they are. Small groups can be tied together. Many animals hide in the reeds in winter. Tied together, the stalks provide a little more protection.

multiply

Propagation is very easy. It is much more difficult to prevent reeds from reproducing themselves. If you are not careful, the plants will overgrow the whole area and crowd all other plants from the bank edge and from the shallow water zone.

  • In spring by division
  • Sowing, also self-sowing
  • Germinate on moist soil

diseases and pests

Diseases and pests are rare, but do occur from time to time. Most of the time, the damage isn’t even noticeable. In most cases, gross maintenance errors cause greater damage.

  • “Reed Owls” – A species of butterfly whose females lay their eggs under the leaves of reeds. The little caterpillars hatch between April and May. These live and feed in the hollow stalks and often change their quarters whenever it has become too narrow. The reeds are dying. Reed owls are important for many creatures in and around the pond. You should let them do it. The damage is usually not significant.
  • Aphids – simply rinse off with a strong jet of water

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you get rid of reeds when they have overgrown areas where you don’t want them?
Only with a spade, a lot of strength and patience. It’s a lot of work, you have to cut and dig everything. There are many reports online of desperate gardeners struggling to get all the rhizomes out of the ground. The important thing is to dig up any seedling that shows up right away, no matter how far from the original plant it got out of the ground. This is often incredibly time-consuming and you have to dig in the entire garden. Anyone who has had to do this once will never plant reeds again. I have read reports of those affected who have pulled rhizomes weighing over 100 kilograms out of the ground.

Can you eat reed?
Yes, you can use the rhizomes and tubers. They can be boiled or ground into flour. Mainly those from the giant reed are used. They have stored strength and energy, so they are nutritious. However, the whole fresh sprouts, which look like bamboo shoots, taste better. However, they have a rather tart taste, even a bit bitter. When cooking, however, the bitter substances go away a little.

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