Rose hibiscus, garden hibiscus – care and cutting

The plant, which is very popular among gardeners and belongs to the mallow family, reaches a total size of up to two meters. A circumference of 1.5m can be achieved. The very large flowers can have different colors depending on the variety, for example white, pink, purple or blue-violet. Well cared for and carefully overwintered, especially in the first two years of life, amateur gardeners can enjoy the decorative plant for a long time.

Location and soil conditions

The location of the plant should be carefully chosen so that the flowers of the rose hawk can develop optimally. The plant feels at home in sunny areas in the garden as well as in partial shade. However, places that are in full shade should be avoided; the plant is very lazy to flower in such locations. It is essential to ensure that the rose hawk is supplied with sufficient heat; for this reason it has proven useful to choose a sheltered location. Here the plants are protected from cold winds, which can cause long-term damage.

Note: The garden hibiscus also tolerates urban climates.

The decorative plant feels good as a single plant, for example on the terrace or balcony. In a solitary position, the garden hibiscus is also suitable as lawn decoration or in beds and simple hedges. With Weigelia, the rose hibiscus forms particularly decorative mixed hedges. In addition, a combination with other shrubs or within small groups of trees is possible. Last but not least, the plant is also suitable for cultivation in pots or tubs.For the development of a rich bloom, in addition to the ideal location, the use of the right substrate is necessary. The potting soil used here should meet certain criteria:

  • weakly acidic to alkaline pH
  • permeable
  • evenly to moderately moist
  • rich in humus
  • rich in nutrients
  • low calcium content is tolerated

Sandy loam soils, which allow good drainage of water, are particularly suitable. If there is a very heavy loamy soil or clay substrate, overwintering can cause certain difficulties, as these soils have an aggravating effect on frost. Then it is worth adding fine gravel or some sand to the substrate. The nutrient content of the soil can also be detrimental; Particularly poor soils can mean that only a small amount of flowers can be seen. In this case, the existing substrate should be improved with compost and potting soil.

Watering, cutting and fertilizing – caring for the garden hibiscus

Optimal care of the rose hibiscus begins with the watering. The crop must be watered regularly, especially during the first six months after planting. In the case of established specimens, on the other hand, targeted irrigation is sufficient on particularly hot days. An additional supply of moisture may also be necessary if it has not rained for a longer period of time. Persistent drought is to be avoided as a matter of principle; in this case the garden hibiscus reacts by shedding buds and turning the leaves yellow. In order to protect the plant from such symptoms, care should be taken to ensure that the underplanting is low, which prevents the soil from drying out quickly. In addition to persistent drought, waterlogging can also be problematic, which can cause the roots to rot.

Young plants in particular should not only be supplied with sufficient water, but also with additional nutrients. Targeted fertilizers reduce the susceptibility to aphids, which particularly often attack plants that are still growing. In potted plants in particular, there should be an additional supply of nutrients, which can be ensured by a liquid fertilizer. This is issued every two to three weeks during the summer months. In addition, the occasional incorporation of horn shavings is also suitable.

In order to support the shoot, it has also proven to be useful to cut the garden hibiscus vigorously. The targeted pruning not only stimulates the formation of flowers, but also achieves a particularly compact growth. This measure can be carried out every two years, with early spring being a particularly favorable season. However, frozen shoots should be removed every year after winter. Due to the excellent cut tolerance, the garden hibiscus can also be shortened considerably. In order to achieve a compact growth habit, several shoots from the previous year, which are located on the thick main branches, are cut off. This targeted lighting ensures that the remaining shoots are supplied with sufficient light. The remaining branches are then shortened by about a third. If the garden hibiscus is grown as a high stem, the bare stem and the round crown are in the foreground. All year round, all shoots that have outgrown the trunk are removed as soon as possible. The spherical shape is retained during the cutting process. To prevent too dense growth, some shoots can be cut completely.

Overwinter

When hibernating the rose hibiscus, different aspects should be considered:

  • Wintering is possible down to -20 ° C, depending on the variety
  • variegated leaves are more sensitive
  • double varieties need more protection

Basically, the rose hibiscus is hardy. However, according to its origin from China and India, the plant is very warm and sensitive to frost. Special protection is therefore particularly beneficial in the first two years of life. If the rose hibiscus has survived the young stage well, it can cope well with the western European winter temperatures. Exceptions are filled varieties that should be grown in pots and wintered in the house at a light temperature of 15 ° C. Young plants of all other varieties that are left outside during the cold season should be protected accordingly. For this purpose, the root area and the stem base should be carefully covered. Later, thick leaves made of leaves are sufficient. The precautions should be taken as early as autumn.

Propagation and sowing

The propagation of the rose hawk can be done with the help of different methods:

  • Together
  • Cuttings
  • Head cuttings

In order to reproduce with the help of cuttings, they are cut off from woody, annual shoots in late autumn. The transplant does not take place until the following spring. The cuttings are best cut from straight, pencil-thick shoots that are well stocked with eyes. The length of the wood should be around 20cm. Appropriate marking has proven to be effective so that the root pole and the scion pole can be kept apart later. For this purpose, the upper end is cut just above one eye, the lower end just below one eye in an oblique position. The cuttings are bundled after the cut and overwintered in a sheltered place, for example in a cool cellar. Here the wood can be stored upright in a half-filled container. In March or April of the next year, the cultivation can take place in large flower pots or outdoors, whereby the diagonally cut end must point downwards when it is put into the ground. Ideally, the upper end protrudes from the ground with two eyes. The cuttings are kept well moist; When the leaves have sprout, the woods are successfully rooted and can be moved.

If the garden hibiscus is to be propagated via cuttings, the tips of the shoots are cut and transplanted directly. Spring is the best time to do this, as the plant then still has enough time to grow. Either the cuttings are pulled out in the pot or put directly into the soil. The cut shoots come with the originally basal part down into the substrate. After plugging in, at least one eye should look out of the ground. When new leaves have unfolded, the cuttings are planted out unless they have already been grown in the field.

Tip: The shoot tips take root faster if they are pulled out in a container filled with water.

In principle, the plants themselves reproduce via seeds. However, the ability of self-sowing due to falling seeds in the immediate vicinity of the plant is not particularly pronounced, so that targeted sowing must be carried out for successful cultivation. When sowing and when planting, there should be a distance of half a meter between the individual specimens. Transplanting should be done in later spring; however, this measure is only tolerated to a limited extent. The rose hawk has fleshy and particularly deep roots that can be easily damaged when transplanting.

Fight diseases and pests effectively

The garden hibiscus is attacked by different pests. The classic pests include aphids, which mainly appear on the shoot tips and buds. The infestation can be easily identified using the characteristic damage pattern:

  • leaves strongly rolled up, partly blistered
  • sticky parts of plants
  • caring, deformed shoots
  • densely packed clusters of lice on shoots and buds

In order to effectively prevent an infestation, the plants should be sufficiently watered, especially in dry times. In addition, special attracting plants such as nasturtiums are an effective preventive measure. In addition, the natural enemies of aphids can be promoted. The use of ladybirds in particular has proven itself in this context. If the plant is already infected, the affected parts of the plant are removed. Alternatively, targeted spraying of the plant with a powerful jet of water is also worthwhile. The repeated introduction of tansy tea, soap solutions and nettle extract has also proven its worth.

Another typical pest of the rose hawk is the spider mite, which lives mainly under the leaves. Tiny, light-colored dots, which appear in large numbers from spring onwards, so that the leaves appear speckled, are characteristic damage. Later the dots merge into light gray or bronze colored spots. In the further course of the disease, leaf shedding may appear. The targeted introduction of predatory bugs, predatory mites and ground beetles is worthwhile as a preventive measure. Sufficient irrigation in dry phases and targeted mulching also prevent infestation. If the plant is already infected, the affected leaves should be removed. It is also worth using rapeseed oil-based insecticides that are gentle on predatory mites.

Sometimes, however, the garden hibiscus also shows symptoms of disease that cannot be explained by the infestation of pests. In this case, location or care errors are often responsible for the disease. Buds can be shed, for example, if the location is very draughty. But too little irrigation water or a sharp change in temperature can be the cause. If, on the other hand, the leaves show yellow discolouration, the plant is usually lacking nutrients. Then the targeted application of a fertilizer is indicated.

Conclusion
With its large and decorative flowers, the garden hibiscus is a real asset to any home garden. Once the plant has survived the first two years of life and, in particular, has successfully hibernated, the plant requires little maintenance. From the beginner to the passionate hobby gardener, the rose hibiscus is equally suitable for every plant lover.

Kira Bellingham

I'm a homes writer and editor with more than 20 years' experience in publishing. I have worked across many titles, including Ideal Home and, of course, Homes & Gardens. My day job is as Chief Group Sub Editor across the homes and interiors titles in the group. This has given me broad experience in interiors advice on just about every subject. I'm obsessed with interiors and delighted to be part of the Homes & Gardens team.

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