Star magnolia, Magnolia stellata – planting and care

In contrast to its big sisters, the tulip magnolias, whose great flowers often freeze to death in April due to late frosts, the star magnolia reacts much more skilfully. If it’s still too cold, the flowers won’t even open. Only when the frost penetrates the open flowers will they freeze to death and turn brown. However, that is the only negative thing to report about these beautiful early bloomers. The maintenance effort is spectacularly low. There is little to consider. You can find out what that is and what great varieties there are in our text. Continue reading!

Characteristics

  • genus of magnolias
  • Originates from Japan
  • Deciduous shrub, deciduous
  • Grows 2 to 5m tall
  • broad crown
  • Flowers before leaves shoot in spring, around the end of March
  • flowers are fragrant
  • They can reach a diameter of between 10 and 15 cm
  • Always form on one-year-old wood
  • Hide in thick buds covered with a protective “fur” in winter
  • Flowering for about 3 weeks
  • Often bloom as biennial plants
  • Form accumulator fruits

Varieties of star magnolia

Many varieties are available in specialist shops. They differ primarily in the shape and color of their flowers. Double star magnolias or those with a particularly strong scent are particularly impressive.

  • ‘Royal Star’ – large flowers, pink in the bud, white when they open, somewhat more frost hardy than other varieties, flowers 1 to 2 weeks later than the other varieties, broad, bushy habit
  • ‘Scented Silver’ – most intense scent of all star magnolias, bright white flowers
  • ‘Leonard Messel’ – hybrid breed, soft pink flowers with great luminosity, vigorous growth
  • ‘Kikuzaki’ – profuse pink buds, later white, double flowers, bear a close resemblance to a water lily
  • ‘Jane Platt’ – double pink flowers, light fragrance only, very slow growth
  • ‘Chrysanthemiflora’- one of the loveliest star magnolias, delicate pink double flowers, similar to water lilies, strong upright growth
  • ‘Rosea’ – deep pink buds, pink tepals with an intensely colored stripe
  • ‘Rubra’ – purple-pink flowers, compact growing shrub, grows quite tall
  • ‘Shi Banchi Rosea’ – water lily-like double flowers of a darker pink
  • ‘Waterlily’ – creamy white flowers, good fragrance, stronger grower

The largest selection of magnolias can be found at: http://lunaplant.de/index.html

The care of the star magnolia

Star magnolia care is easy. The plants are usually free from any diseases and pests. They need a bright and sheltered place and a very humus-rich soil. When planting, a large planting hole and appropriate substrate are important. It is better to refrain from tilling the soil, as the roots are quite sensitive. Drought is unfavorable for the magnolias. They should be watered regularly in hot and sunny weather. Long-term fertilizer is suitable as fertilizer. Star magnolias look best uncut. If disturbing or diseased branches still have to be removed, there are a few things to consider. Basically, most star magnolias are hardy, but not all are equally strong. Therefore, a good variety selection is important. The plants are propagated by lowering or sowing.

Note: The choice of variety is important. When choosing the right star magnolia, you should not only choose according to the appearance of the flowers. Depending on where you live and have your garden, hardiness and flowering time must be crucial. Even those who live in very frosty areas can cultivate a magnolia in the garden. The frost hardness must be correspondingly high and the flowering time as late as possible. Late flowering is also important in locations where there is a risk of late frost. If these two points are taken into account, one can surely experience many beautiful blooms of the star magnolia.

location

Star magnolias should be sunny. They are great as solitaires. However, due to their short growth, they also fit well in flower beds. It is important to plan the final size from the beginning. Magnolias are very difficult to transplant after a certain age and they are not well contained by pruning measures. This will disfigure the crown or the entire plant.

  • Sunny
  • Protected, especially from late frosts
  • In a somewhat half-shady location, the flowers open a little later and often appear around late frosts.
  • If the location is too shady, only sparse flowers will form
  • good frost hardiness, therefore also suitable for cool locations

plant substrate

The star magnolia does not make too many demands on the plant substrate. It is important that there is enough hummus. Otherwise, she does well in most garden soils as long as they are not too dry or too wet. When planting, put moor bed or rhododendron soil in the planting hole, this helps the wood to grow and forms a good basis.

  • Thrive in any well drained, humus rich garden soil
  • Deep and humus-rich soil with a good water supply is ideal
  • Can also cope with calcareous soils if there is enough humus.

plant

Star magnolias are usually sold as container plants or with a root ball. When planting, it is important that the planting hole is not too small. It should be about 1 m in diameter and 50 to 60 cm deep. The finishing point must also be taken into account.

  • Best time to plant – spring or fall
  • Fill a sack of bog soil or rhododendron soil (60 to 70 liters) into the empty planting pit
  • Peat-based products are cheap.
  • Now fill in about the same amount of garden soil and mix the two soils.
  • Submerge the root ball in water so that it can really soak up water.
  • Detangle marginal roots with your fingers.
  • Place the star magnolia in the planting hole.
  • Leave bales wrapped in jute inside. The material decomposes quickly.
  • In the case of jute with plastic, to be recognized by the colored lines and threads, loosen the bale cloth, spread it out and leave it there.
  • Press the bales firmly into the substrate, not with your feet!
  • Form a pouring rim around the planting pit.
  • Water plentifully.
  • Scatter coarse horn shavings over the planting area.
  • Then there is a thick layer of mulch.
  • Avoid regular tillage, as this can damage the sensitive roots.
  • It is much cheaper to underplant a tolerant ground cover such as the foam flower.
  • Low azaleas or delicate rhododendron repens hybrids are suitable as plant partners. Daphne, snow heather, Japanese quince or hazel also do well in the neighborhood. Spring bloomers, bulbous plants that bloom at roughly the same time, always look great with magnolias.
Note: Never plant deeper than the current “end mark” on the trunk of the magnolia. If this is not observed, the plants will stop growing, and fungi and bacteria can also nest at the grafting point.

watering and fertilizing

Star magnolias don’t like drought, but they don’t like waterlogging either. A layer of mulch covering the soil is ideal. This protects against dehydration. It only needs to be watered if it is dry for a long time. Compost or long-term fertilizer is suitable as fertilizer.

  • Don’t let it dry out!
  • When dry, water regularly and deeply.
  • Do not fertilize until next spring after planting!
  • After that, always provide nutrients in the spring
  • Pearlized long-term fertilizer is ideal as fertilizer
  • You can also use your own compost for fertilization

To cut

You should only cut magnolias in exceptional cases. In fact, there is no need to use scissors. The shrubs are the most floriferous if simply left to grow undisturbed and unpruned. You have to know that the trees and shrubs sprout from trimmed branches only very hesitantly. Larger wounds do not close. If possible, make pruning corrections only on young plants. One or two-year-old shoots can be pruned without any problems. This can encourage branching.

  • For older star magnolias, only cut out branches that are dead or rubbing against each other
  • Take out the most unfavorably placed shoots.
  • Prune immediately after flowering.
  • Always cut right at the roots and don’t leave any stubs.
  • More should not be cut.
  • Regular pruning measures disfigure the crown.

hibernate

Not all star magnolias are created equal. Depending on the area in which you live, the appropriate variety should be selected. With a sufficiently frost-resistant variety, winter is no problem in our latitudes. Late frosts are often more dangerous. They don’t damage the wood itself, but the flowers. They turn brown in a flash and look unsightly. A fleece can be used to cover small shrubs or trees, but this is often difficult, if not impossible, for large plants.

multiply

The best way to propagate star magnolias is through sinkers. This is how they are propagated from the roots. But you can also use seeds. The best time to do this is right after they ripen in the fall. Many magnolias are also grafted.

sowing

  • Cold germs, a cold stimulus is required for germination
  • It can take up to a year and sometimes longer for a seed to germinate
  • Soak the seeds in warm water with a little dish soap for 1 to 2 days to loosen the waterproof shell.
  • When the flesh is soft, drain the water.
  • peel off the pulp.
  • Rub the seeds dry with a kitchen towel.
  • It is best to sow and overwinter in a cold box.
  • Alternatively, store the seeds in the refrigerator. Simply place in sand and keep cold for about 8 weeks.
  • Plants grown in this way need 4 to 5 years until they are really presentable.

lowering

  • Possible from June
  • Carefully bend a strong, young and elastic side shoot down to the ground.
  • Where the rooting is to take place, i.e. where the shoot touches the ground, make a 4 cm long incision on the lower side that inclines towards the ground.
  • It mustn’t be too big.
  • A small stone is clamped into the slit so that this wound cannot be closed.
  • Stick the interface about 5 to 7 cm into the ground and fasten it with a hook or something similar so that the shoot does not snap up and linger in the ground.
  • Always keep the substrate moist.
  • Root formation is usually complete by April.
  • The rooted shoot can be separated.
  • It should not be placed in the bed straight away, but first cultivated in a container.
  • Plant out the following autumn, but with winter protection.

diseases and pests

Diseases and pests are extremely rare in star magnolias. If the plants have a good location and soil, they are robust and grow well.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it better to remove the magnolia’s infructescence so that it doesn’t wear itself out as it ripens?
No, that’s not necessary. The development of the seeds has no influence on the number of flowers in the following year. You can let them mature. They then fall off on their own.

Are star magnolias also suitable for keeping in containers?
You probably have to answer that. Young plants can certainly be cultivated in a planter. The plant substrate must be similar to that of planted specimens. It would be important to have drainage so that excess water can run off. Overwintering is crucial. Star magnolias in pots must be protected from frost, especially from freezing. It is best to place the bucket on styrofoam plates, wrap it up thickly and set it up in a protected place. In front of a warm house wall would be ideal. Don’t forget to water, the substrate shouldn’t dry out, but it shouldn’t be too wet either. If severe, prolonged frosts are forecast, I would put the jar in the garage or basement where it’s cold but not frosty.

Why do some star magnolias (also other types) sometimes bloom a second time in summer?
For some, it is breeded that way, but rarely. Most of the time, the conditions for the plants are simply good. If you look around the neighborhood, you can usually find even more flowering specimens. It does not depend on the species and varieties. The last two years (2013 and 2014) many magnolias bloomed in summer. We have noticed this both down in the south of Germany and here in the north. I asked at the botanical garden in Munich and was told that magnolias sometimes do this, although tulip magnolias are much more affected. It is quite rare in star magnolias. In any case, there is no need to worry. At most, flowering next spring can (doesn’t have to) be a little more sparse.

Kira Bellingham

I'm a homes writer and editor with more than 20 years' experience in publishing. I have worked across many titles, including Ideal Home and, of course, Homes & Gardens. My day job is as Chief Group Sub Editor across the homes and interiors titles in the group. This has given me broad experience in interiors advice on just about every subject. I'm obsessed with interiors and delighted to be part of the Homes & Gardens team.

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