Succulents – plants, care & types

Almost all succulents need a bright location with as much direct sunlight as possible and good ventilation. The only exceptions are some members of the genus Liliaceae, which also get by with less light. The large opuntia are prone to sunburn. A year-round cultivation in a window seat is not particularly suitable for succulents, as the window glass largely filters the UV light necessary for the plants.

• if there is too little light, the succulents grow old and sparsely
• So that the entire plant gets light from the skylight, the pot should be turned a quarter every two to three days
• an outdoor space is ideal, especially in spring and summer
• in this case, plants with soft, hairy, small leaves should be protected from heavy rain
• The species Echeveria and Pachyphytum are particularly sensitive
• if you have succulents of the genera Aloen, Gasterie or Hawothie, you should choose a partially shaded location
• all other succulents like it really sunny

What temperature succulents need

In nature, succulents tolerate considerable temperature fluctuations. Epiphyllum colonizes hot, humid primeval forests, while Oreocereus, which comes from the Andes, tolerates both sun and night frosts well. The genus Sempervivum even lies partially under snow in winter.

• In general, the warmth in our living rooms and especially on windows that are very sunny is very beneficial for the succulents
• this is especially true for popular succulents such as agave, aloe or senecio
• the ideal temperature is between 19 and 23 degrees C.
• this also applies to the majority of succulents in winter
• some succulents like facurias like it much cooler in winter with 10 degrees C.
• For these plants, the winter break with low temperatures and direct sunlight is a necessary prerequisite
• Before the nights and days get really cool in autumn, the natural succulents should move back into the apartment

What to watch out for when pouring

Compared to many other plants, succulents tolerate long periods of drought much better. However, you should not overuse this frugality of the succulents. Many owners are wrong in assuming that these plants mostly come from very dry areas and therefore require very little or no water. If water is used sparingly, succulents will also die, if not quite as quickly. The other extreme, i.e. abundant watering of the plants, should also be avoided.

• Rainwater is more suitable for irrigation than commercial tap water
• at the time of growth the succulents should be watered abundantly
• Only pour enough water during the resting period so that the potting compost does not dry out completely
• accidental splashes of water from watering or rain could damage the leaves
• You can get rid of excess water by placing the pot on two parallel wooden strips for 15 minutes
• watering can be done with a watering can, which has a slim and long pipe
• Here, too, care must be taken that the leaves are not splashed with water
• Particularly with containers made of plastic, caution is advised to avoid waterlogging of the root ball
• too much water, along with cold drafts and poor drainage, inevitably leads to rot

Correct use of fertilizer

Care with fertilizing is similar to that with watering. Less is often more here and fertilization is rarely used during the flowering period.

• Especially faster-growing succulents are happy if they are given liquid fertilizer every 14 days during the main growth phase
• A commercial fertilizer is sufficient for many plants of this genus
• however, some species, such as aeonium, agave, stapelia or sedum, require a complete fertilizer with excess potash
• in the case of Gasterien, Senecio and Haworthia, fertilization is not advisable
• Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum and Lithops need only be fertilized very rarely
• if succulents get too much nitrogen from fertilization, their shoots grow weak and soft and the leaves do not grow either
• In principle, the fertilizer administered should not be too concentrated
• in most cases a concentration of 0.1 to 0.2% is completely sufficient for the succulents
• In order to be able to absorb nutrients, the root balls of the plants must be kept evenly moist for a few days after fertilization
• Slowly growing plants do not grow faster even with a lot of fertilizer

Repotting succulents properly

If the soil is too old or the roots are too big, it is time to repot. There are a few aspects to consider:

• Well-growing succulents should be repotted in a larger planter about once a year
• Slowly growing species only need to be repotted every 2 to 3 years
• An ideal time is when the pot is already completely rooted
• to do this, the plant must be checked regularly during the growth phase
• if this is the case, the plant should be repotted in a larger container
• If the current size of the pot is sufficient, it can still be used after cleaning
• So that the base of the plant is just as deep as before, you can top up with fresh soil as required
• Repotting these plants is also advisable when the offshoots or side shoots have grown to the edge of the pot
• most succulents can be handled by hand, although this does not apply to prickly cacti, of course
• As a precaution, succulents are best handled at the base of the trunk just above the surface of the earth

Substrate and soil for succulents

Even if you carry out the watering strictly according to the culture instructions, damaging waterlogging at the roots must be avoided. The best way to prevent the risk of rot is by creating ideal conditions for a water outlet.

• Ideal is in a substrate based on compost
• Coarse-grained perlite or somewhat sharp sand should always be mixed carefully
• two parts of earth and one part of sand represent the best ratio
• in addition, some species require a more permeable substrate
• with certain species, such as cotyledon or ceropegia, you are welcome to put coarse pebbles or a layer of potsherds on the bottom of the planter
• a ready-made mixture of cactus soil is often a good choice
• In certain cases, simple, commercially available standard soil or potting soil is sufficient

How to Successfully Propagate Succulents

Almost all succulents can be propagated. Branching plants mostly form kindles, i.e. side shoots. These usually form at the base of the plant.

• When propagating by Kindel, these side shoots are to be cut off
• after you have planted the young plants in a small pot, you can start cultivating them like a full-grown specimen from now on
• If the child sits too tightly on the mother plant, a knife should be used
• The cut surface should be allowed to dry for two to three days before planting
• In contrast to many other plants, it does not matter with succulents whether the adjacent shoots have already developed their own roots
• it is sufficient to place the side sprout in slightly moistened potting soil and set it up in good temperature and light conditions
• in some species, such as the Crassula, propagation by leaf cuttings is possible
• to do this, a sheet must be carefully cut or separated
• then the cutting should be left to dry for two to three days
• You can now stick the dry leaf with the cut surface in the ground or lay it flat on the ground
• branching succulents can also be propagated by division
• this is possible with Lithops and Faucaria, for example
• Propagation by sowing is of course also conceivable
• For this purpose, 2/3 of the earth should consist of humus soil and 1/3 of sharp sand
• it should be noted that the succulents cannot tolerate a soaked substrate
• If the sowing soil is thoroughly and evenly watered, the seeds can be distributed so that they are not covered with sand or soil
• the best time to sow is in late spring or early summer
• in many specimens, the young plants germinate within two to three weeks

Can succulents be cut?

• This is by no means possible for all species
• euphorbias are suitable for this
• a sharp knife or a small saw must be used for this
• then the sap must be dabbed off and sealed with a wound medicine

Diseases and pests

Although succulents are very resilient, they can be attacked by a variety of pests and diseases. These are at risk from excessive fertilization, little sunlight and excessive watering. The most common pests are fungus gnats, spider mites, root and mealybugs and scale insects.

Sciarid gnats

• can be found in dark places when the substrate is relatively moist
• the animals are slimmer than common fruit or mayflies
• Damage is caused by the larvae, which can destroy the entire seed
• If possible, avoid using humus when sowing
• in an emergency, the mosquitoes can be caught with yellow boards
• in case of infestation you should prick out immediately and continue cultivating in a drier place

Spider mites

• Most insecticides do not help against them
• the pests can usually be recognized by the fine cobwebs between the leaves
• Unfortunately, the animals can multiply quickly and cause great damage as a result
• put the plant in a plastic bag if it is infected
• moisten the plant well and keep the bag closed for two weeks
• the pests will not survive the high humidity

Root lice and mealybugs

• hide well and can hardly be seen
• the lice surround themselves with a white, furry coating
• take the plant out of the pot and look specifically for an infestation
• the pests like to hide in the corners of the pot
• in most cases you cannot avoid a complete removal of the substrate
• In addition to shaking it off, we recommend showering with a hard shower jet
• then the plant has to dry for a week
• then repot and treat with a systemic insecticide
• usually scale insects can be found on the leaves
• the succulents are damaged by sticky waste

Scale insects

• When buying the plant, it should be checked for scale insects
• infected plants are to be separated from healthy ones immediately
• Pests can be removed by rinsing or rubbing with your fingers
• a systemic insecticide may well be necessary for larger plants

Conclusion
The robust succulents require relatively little maintenance, as they store water in roots and trunks and can withstand longer periods of drought. In order to thrive well, the plant needs a lot of light, so the location is of great importance. Large-scale pouring is not required. Placed next to each other in numerous small pots, the splendid variety can be arranged on the sideboard or kitchen table.