If a cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) is to change its location, it is relatively easy to do it yourself. A little effort is required, but can be carried out by anyone with the appropriate step-by-step instructions. Some professional expert advice will help to make the work as easy as possible, but still create an optimal base for the cherry laurel so that the move does not have any negative consequences.
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Best time
Choosing the right time for transplanting is an important factor so that the roots can establish themselves in the new soil as quickly as possible. Only then does the optimal supply of vital substances work via the roots into the interior of the plant. In addition, the roots can be damaged by unfavorable weather conditions.
The best time is spring, when ground frost is no longer to be expected. This is the case at the latest after the ice saints in mid-May.
Alternatively, a transplant can also be carried out in late summer or early autumn between the months of August and September. Here the Prunus laurocerasus gets enough time until the first frost break. Transplanting at this time is advantageous because the cherry laurel puts a lot of energy into root growth. This means that the root system can establish itself more quickly and the shrub recovers more quickly from the rigors of the move.
Step 1: pruning to prepare the plant
To make digging up and transplanting easier, it is advisable to give the cherry laurel a more manageable, more compact format by pruning it back. In addition, pruning before transplanting has the advantage that fewer leaves cause less moisture evaporation. This is exactly what the plant needs in abundance after transplanting.
When pruning in autumn, the plant should be shortened by a maximum of a third. If replanting in the spring, the pruning can be done more generously.
Step 2: Prepare the new location
The new location should meet the demands of the rose family in terms of soil quality, light and sufficient space.
Before the cherry laurel is dug up, the planting hole should be prepared so that the plant can be put back into the ground immediately after it has been excavated. The longer the roots have to do without moisture and the nutrients in the soil, the greater the stress on the plant.
Dig the planting hole
To prepare the new planting hole for transplanting, proceed as follows and observe various points:
- Plant hole depth: about ten centimeters deeper than the “tap roots” (which run vertically downwards)
- Planting hole width: so wide that the laterally running roots fit into it without kinking (roughly the circumference of the bush)
- Put a layer of compost on the bottom of the planting hole
- alternative to compost: use blue grain or horn shavings for long-term fertilization
Step 3: dig out
Heart roots
When digging up it should be taken into account that cherry laurel bushes are heart roots. The main roots first run vertically downwards. Later on, further roots will form on these main roots, which will spread laterally in all directions and turn upwards. This creates a heart-like structure on which the name Herzwurzler is based.
Exposing the roots
As the heart root of the cherry laurel, the earth must be excavated over a large area and at the same time deeply so that a Prunus laurocerasus can be removed from the earth without damaging the important roots. If you water the earth vigorously before digging it up, it can be dug up with significantly less effort and faster.
As a rule, a depth of 60 or 70 centimeters is sufficient. If the roots tend to grow deeper into the earth, they can be cut at this height.
The lateral fiber roots are also essential for survival. With this rose plant, these reach approximately to the level of the outer circumference of the bush. Depending on the size of the shrub, this can mean digging out two to three meters in diameter.
After excavation, the sensitive roots should be protected from damage during installation and transport.
Step 4: transplant
Once all the preparations have been made and the cherry laurel has been dug up at the old location, it can be planted at the new location. This is done as follows:
- Unwrap the burlap sack from the root ball
- Place the plant in the center of the planting hole
- If the planting hole has not been dug sufficiently large, correct it again
- Refill the planting hole with the previously excavated soil
- The superficial roots must be well covered with soil
- Strike the surface of the earth vigorously so that the cherry laurel gets stability
- Pour moderately
- In the following two to three days, observe whether the soil settles and fill in more soil if necessary
Step 5: pour
After transplanting, it is important that the cherry laurel is watered regularly because it needs a lot of water to “start” at the new location and only then can it grow well.
In principle, winter does not exempt from watering. On dry days it is essential to check the moisture content of the soil and, if necessary, to apply irrigation water.
If yellow leaves form on the cherry laurel after transplanting to a new location, this is normal. If enough water is poured without causing waterlogging, the “problem” will quickly disappear and the cherry laurel will soon reappear in its usual splendor.
Conclusion
Hobby gardeners do not have any special specialist knowledge to transplant a cherry laurel, they only need to follow the instructions above. The Prunus laurocerasus usually copes well with a change of location, as long as the new place meets its requirements and regular watering takes place.
