Rough hydrangeas, also known as velvet hydrangeas, are interesting hydrangea plants that differ from many other species in terms of growth, leaves and also the cup-shaped flowers. There are not yet as many different varieties as there are for example panicle hydrangeas, but new ones come onto the market every now and then. The care is easy, the plants are quite robust. Our text tells you what to look out for when cultivating these decorative flowering plants. Continue reading!
Table of Contents
Characteristics
- Often called velvet or fur hydrangea
- Hydrangea family
- Natural Range – Asia, from temperate to tropical
- Thrives there in forests up to 4,000 m altitude
- Shrub or small tree, 1 to 4 m tall, rarely up to 10 m
- Sparsely branched
- The upper side of the leaf is sparsely to densely haired, the underside has dense grey-white hairs – hence the name rough
- The leaves are actually very velvety, and they look like it
- Flowering from July to September
- Flowers umbrella-shaped, cymes up to 25 cm wide
- Flowers sterile, 2 to 6 cm wide
- Sepals greenish white, pink or red
- Petals blue-violet to crimson
- pods with seeds from September to November
sorts
- ‘Mauvette’ – white pseudoflowers and mauve fertile inner flowers, tends to stay small, at about a meter, thick basal shoots
- ‘Macrophylla’ – also called giant leaf hydrangea, white pseudo-flowers, small pale purple fertile flowers – very large overall, the plant also grows large, up to 3.5 m, with very large leaves, somewhat more branched, thick basic shoots,
- Hydrangea aspera ssp. sargentiana’ – is considered a velvet hydrangea, white outer flowers, pink-purple fertile flowers, somewhat smaller than ‘Macrophylla’, the runners are a disadvantage, medium-tall shrub, sprout somewhat earlier, 2 to 3 m tall and wide, upright habit
- ‘Hot Chocolate’ – large pink cup-shaped, pink fertile flowers
The care of the rough hydrangea
Caring for hydrangeas is not difficult. The rough hydrangea is no exception. The water supply is important. Drought leads to shedding of buds and flowers and leaf fall. However, waterlogging is not advisable either, as it leads to root rot and the entire plant dies. Otherwise, it is important that the plants are not exposed to the glaring midday sun. A partially shaded location is significantly better for development. The plant substrate is also important. It should be humus, well drained and slightly acidic. Hydrangeas, on the other hand, do not like lime. This is also important when watering. It is best to use rainwater. When fertilizing, it should be noted that the flowering plants do not tolerate phosphorus well. There should always be little or no fertilizer in the fertilizer.
Rough hydrangeas should not be pruned at all. However, since they only branch very sparsely, they can be pruned every now and then to get them denser, but always with care. Propagation is by cuttings. Diseases and pests are rather rare.
location
Like almost all hydrangea species, the velvet hydrangea prefers partial shade. Bright sun is not good for the plant. In addition, the sensitive leaves do not like wind. Rough hydrangeas don’t like it rough, but rather protected from wind and too much sun.
- Prefers partial shade, especially the velvety leaves are sensitive to excessive sunlight
- Avoid midday sun
- Morning and evening sun are no problem
- sheltered from the wind
- Likes high humidity, so does well near a pond or fountain.
plant substrate
The plant substrate is also important so that the rough hydrangea feels comfortable, whether planted out in the garden or in a planter. The earth must be permeable, but on the other hand it must also be able to hold water. Lime in the soil is unfavourable, but a slightly acidic substrate is beneficial.
- Slightly acidic, humus-rich soil
- Loose sludge (loose sediment made of organic material – plant remains, with bacteria, minerals and metabolic products) is particularly favorable. That’s where they grow best.
- Well drained soil
- The shoots ripen very late on soil that is too rich
- Not too sandy or too clay soil
- Most species or varieties do not like lime
- Soil must not be over-fertilized so that the shoots mature in time
- pH below 7
plant
Spring is the best time to plant hydrangeas. The rough hydrangea is no exception. However, container plants can be planted in the garden all year round, except when there is frost. However, the warmer it is, the more it has to be watered.
- drainage in the planter
- Depending on the planting time, some starter fertilizer can be added to the planting hole.
- Planted late in the year, so after July, do not fertilize.
watering and fertilizing
Velvet hydrangeas do not like drought. Especially in summer, a lot of water is evaporated through the large leaves. This has to be refilled again and again. However, permanent wetness is also not good for the plants.
- Water regularly
- Don’t let it dry out
- Potted plants in particular need to be watered regularly
- No waterlogging
- Do not use hard water. Rainwater is best.
- Fertilize with a nitrogen-rich complete fertilizer with only a little phosphorus
- Alternatively, special hydrangea fertilizer or rhododendron and azalea fertilizer
- No blue grain fertilizers (too high phosphate content)
- Both the planted out and the velvet hydrangeas in pots are supplied with slow-release fertilizer twice a year, once in spring and once in early summer
- Potted hydrangeas should also be fertilized with liquid fertilizer during the growing season from March to the beginning of August.
To cut
Pruning is easy when you know that velvet hydrangeas will flower on shoots that grew the previous year. So it must not be cut in the spring, because then you would cut off the beginnings of the flowers. You simply cut off the old, unsightly inflorescences in early spring.
In principle, this hydrangea does not need to be pruned. However, since it grows very sparsely, pruning promotes branching. That is why pruning takes place immediately after flowering, if at all. The best thing for the plant is to just let it grow, without any pruning.
- If late frost lets the shoots freeze back, you can safely cut them off.
- There will be no flowering this year, but the plants usually recover well and sprout again willingly.
hibernate
Rough hydrangeas are usually well hardy, at least in normal winters. If you want to be on the safe side, you can protect your plant(s) with some brushwood, which prevents the shoots from freezing and supports a nice shoot.
One risk are late frosts, which set in when the hydrangeas have already sprout. Young shoots and the beginnings of the flowers can freeze to death. It is therefore highly recommended to protect the plants with fleece as soon as these frosts are announced.
Hydrangeas in planters are better not overwintered outdoors.
- Frost-free, but keep cold
- 3 to 5°C is ideal
- The place can also be quite dark because the plants shed their leaves anyway.
- Water sparingly, but don’t let the soil dry out completely.
- Don’t fertilize.
- Check regularly for pest infestation. Aphids and spider mites in particular like to spread in winter, especially if the area is too warm.
- If hydrangeas are overwintered outdoors in tubs, they must be wrapped up thickly.
- It is best to place the vessels against a warm house wall and/or in a protected corner.
- It is good to place the vessel on Styrofoam plates.
- Don’t forget to water every now and then, the soil must not dry out completely.
multiply
Propagation is by cuttings
- Cut cuttings in July, which are not yet lignified, i.e. new shoots.
- It is important that there are no flower buds on it.
- Divide the shoots into short sections, about 10 to 15 cm long.
- Cut the shoot tip away from the top shoot.
- Remove all remaining leaves except for the top pair of leaves.
- Halve the top leaves to reduce evaporation
- Dip cuttings in rooting powder (usually works without)
- Then put them in a container with potting soil, two to four centimeters deep.
- Moisten the soil and cover the jar with clear foil or a bag.
- Place the container in the shade, but outdoors if possible.
- Keep moist and air regularly.
- It doesn’t take long for the first roots to appear.
- Once the roots are nice and strong, the cuttings can be planted in larger containers, now individually.
- They will now continue to be cultivated without covering, but should remain in the shade.
- You may not overwinter the first winter outdoors.
- In late spring, around the end of May, the young velvet hydrangeas can be planted out.
diseases and pests
Rough hydrangeas are quite hardy and healthy, not very susceptible to disease. Pests also occur rarely and then mostly when velvet hydrangeas are overwintered in a bucket frost-free in the house. Then the cultivation conditions are simply not ideal, the plants are weakened and the pests attack them.
- Aphids – Rinse with strong water jet, repeat until all lice are gone
- Scale insects – usually only chemicals can help
- Spider mites – Increase humidity, preferably by spraying daily
- Powdery mildew – fair weather fungus, settles on the leaf surface, but also on the stems, white, flour-like, dusty coating, to combat with homemade spray made from milk and water in a ratio of 1:9, repeat regularly
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the reason for hydrangeas getting yellow leaves with green veins?
This is a deficiency in plants called chlorosis. The hydrangea lacks iron. There are usually two reasons for this. First, the soil pH is too high. As a result, the existing iron cannot be utilized. Secondly, it can also simply be that the soil lacks iron as a trace element. What can you do? If the pH value is too high, watering with rainwater and possibly administering an acidic fertilizer helps. In the second case, iron chelated fertilizers should be administered.
What causes brown leaf edges and brown flowers?
Too much sun is usually to blame for brown plant parts, but in connection with a lack of water. Brown leaf edges are a sign of dehydration, both from wind and sun. The flowers quickly lose their beauty and dry up. You can then cut them out. It is important to pour penetratingly, not just superficially. A casting ring is a good help here, since no more water can run off to the side. All supplied water remains in the root area and also seeps into deeper layers.
