Walnut tree, walnut – planting, care and cutting

The walnut tree already imposes some conditions on its location. So it has to stand as free and airy as possible, because otherwise it can only flourish with a delay or not at all. Since it reaches a height of 15 meters or more, a fairly large area must be available for this. This applies to both the height and the depth and scope.

Despite a lot of sun and free space, the walnut also needs protection. Because the tree can only tolerate frost badly. So it is best to choose south sides.

It takes the walnut tree about 60 years to reach its full size. However, it should not be planted too close to houses or the fence to the neighbor. A distance of five meters is recommended.

Substrate
The demands of the walnut on the substrate are somewhat lower. First and foremost, the tree needs a deep location in which loamy substrate or clay soil predominates. The substrate should be rich in nutrients and lime but still loose. If you don’t find this in your own garden, you can make do with a mixture of garden soil, clay and compost.

plant

In order for the walnut to thrive properly, a few factors must be taken into account when planting.

• Since the walnut tree cannot tolerate frost, do not plant until after the last frost in spring or early summer
• Choose the diameter of the planting hole twice as large as the diameter of the root ball
• Prepare the planting hole with horn shavings, these promote root growth
• The root neck must be flush with the surface, the walnut must not be too deep
• Use a stabilizing post
• Step on earth well
• After planting, wash the walnut tree with plenty of water

maintenance

If the Juglans regia is in the right location, maintenance is limited to a few measures. However, constant watering may be necessary, especially with young trees. Even watering can be reduced with a few tricks.

Fertilization is only necessary when necessary, as is a cut. However, keeping the walnut free is vital.

pour

In the first year the walnut tree hardly grows in height and width. Instead, the roots spread. For this, the walnut primarily needs water, so the soil should never be completely dry. It is important to avoid waterlogging as a matter of urgency.

Plenty of watering is still advisable within the first two to three years, after which rainfalls are usually sufficient. Additional watering should only be used in very dry times.
Those who cannot or do not want to water constantly can make do with the following tips.

• Apply a thick layer of mulch around the tree trunk, for example from lawn clippings
• Spread a mat on the ground alone or in addition, for example made of straw or coconut fibers
• Install an airtight tree shield

Normal tap water is sufficient for watering. In areas with very hard tap water, however, collected rainwater should be used. Otherwise, even the plants that are actually compatible with lime could die.

Fertilize

If the location and substrate have been chosen appropriately, the walnut tree needs little fertilization. It is advisable to fertilize it with compost after the fruit has dropped. So once a year. The substrate should be covered until the diameter of the tree canopy is reached. Accelerated nutrient uptake and improved growth are achieved when the compost is incorporated into the soil. This loosens the soil at the same time and also allows more effective watering.

Liberating the location
In the first few years, walnut trees are still sensitive and react sensitively to competition. Even weeds can therefore be dangerous.For this reason, care should be taken in the first three years to ensure that the area around the location remains free.

This can be achieved either by frequent weeding or by attaching a dense tree protection disc.

Later, the falling foliage of the walnut tree ensures that hardly anything can thrive under the plant. Because the leaves contain a lot of tannin.

Slicing the walnut

Walnuts form a crown on their own, so a real shape cut is not necessary. In the second or third year of standing, however, it makes sense to remove side branches up to a height of about one meter.

Later, the walnut tree only has to be pruned if necessary. So only if some branches become too dense.

The best time for blending is between August and September, because then the walnut will not bleed along the wounds.

In addition, the following points should be noted.

• Only cut the walnut with clean tools, disinfected devices are ideal
• Make sure the interfaces are clean and smooth
• Do not leave any stumps
• Use sharp tools that will not crush the branches
• Then use appropriate wound closure agents

harvest

As early as the second or third year of standing, walnut trees will bring in a small yield. Several kilograms can be expected from the fifth year onwards.

Walnuts only become productive to a large extent, up to 40 kilograms, from around the age of 10. The annual harvest declines somewhat in old age. However, since walnut trees can live up to 100 years, they bring large yields overall.

To do this, however, it is necessary to keep the flowers frost-proof and only prune the tree sparingly. Since the plants are self-fertilizing, pollination takes place via the wind. Unlike other trees, the nuts must be allowed to fall from the tree. Picking is not recommended. Only the jumping out of the green peel and falling off are reliable signs that the fruit is ripe.

Multiplication

The walnut can be propagated in two ways. On the one hand through the nuts themselves, which can serve as seeds. On the other hand, through cuttings obtained.
Propagation by seeds

1. Put the fallen nuts and the green shell into a mixture of sand and peat.
2. Store this frost-proof until the next spring, place it as light as possible and keep the substrate moist.
3. If there are shoots, the young plants should be placed individually in pots from a height of about 10 to 15 cm. Cultivation soil is recommended as a new substrate.
4. In the pots, the plants can already be put outside. Anyone who has already planted them out without pots, however, has to reach for the shovel again in autumn, because in the first few years and at least until they are lignified, wintering may only be frost-free.

Due to the nature of the seeds, the plants grown in this way usually do not produce the same nuts as the mother plant. To do this, they must first be refined.
Propagation by cuttings can be carried out more easily and quickly.

Propagating by cuttings
Obtaining the necessary cuttings is easy. Only about 15 cm long shoots have to be cut from the tree. These can still be green or already a bit lignified.
If they are placed directly in the potting soil, they will take root within a few weeks. Newly sprouted leaves show whether the propagation was successful.

These young plants must first be protected and overwintered frost-free.

Overwinter

The wintering of self-grown young plants is quite easy. To do this, it is sufficient to place them in pots or tubs in a bright room that is safe from frost.
The plants will shed their leaves, but should not stand in completely dried-out substrate.

In the open air, trees should be protected by the following measures:

• Mulch and mats on the earth
• Fleece and mats as trunk protection
• A crown wrapped in garden fleece when the forest lasts a long time or the winter is very hard

Typical diseases and pests

Due to its spicy and bitter scent, the walnut tree has a pleasant effect on human noses but is a deterrent to a large number of insects.

Nevertheless, it can happen that it is attacked by pests. This is where lice and caterpillars can particularly be seen, which can attack leaves and fruits. However, some species can even dig burrows under the bark.

Therefore, at the first signs such as discoloration, holes, dots, curled leaves and greasy areas, you should start fighting.

1. Remove and destroy affected parts.
2. Use biological agents, such as lye from soft soap, yellow tablets and solutions based on pyrethrum.
3. Integrate natural enemies into the garden, ladybugs, lacewings and parasitic wasps are suitable.
4. Chemicals should only be used if these measures are unsuccessful.

In addition to pests, infestation with viruses, bacteria and fungi is still possible. These are also expressed through the symptoms listed above. In addition, growths can occur. Because it is difficult to determine individual diseases, a specialist should be consulted in case of doubt. In turn, it helps to remove and destroy affected parts of the plant. Appropriate treatment should then be carried out using suitable means.

Is the walnut tree poisonous?

Most people know that walnuts are not only edible, but also taste good. However, not all parts of the tree are edible.

The leaves, which are even used as a tea infusion and are supposed to stimulate digestion, can cause gastrointestinal complaints in sensitive people. Nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and even chills are possible.

The leaves are also highly toxic to horses and all other domestic animals. For this reason, care must be taken that dogs, cats, rabbits or guinea pigs do not nibble on them. Which can happen while playing or free running.
And the green fruit peels also cause poisoning. However, this is not only due to the ingredients of the shell, but to poisonous fungi in them. Once the pods fall off, they should be removed thoroughly. No residue should end up on the compost. This is not advisable, if only because of the high content of tannins.

Conclusion
The walnut tree is in itself a very easy-care plant, provided it is in the right location and is supplied with sufficient water. Both fertilization and pruning are rarely necessary. In return, it provides shade and a pleasant scent, not to mention the fruit. The only thing you have to pay attention to is the shells and leaves, then the walnut is a nice addition to large gardens.