Yellow roses are extremely luminous. They bring a lot of color to the garden and should be used in a targeted manner. There are many beautiful varieties. When choosing, one should also pay attention to health and winter hardiness. ADR roses are a good choice. Yellow roses symbolize friendship and platonic love. They are also given when one is willing to forgive mistakes. Caring for yellow roses is no different from other roses. They like the sun, need air and water and lots of nutrients. Read our text to find out what else there is to be aware of.

The importance of yellow roses

The rose is the flower of love . The different colors have a special meaning. The yellow rose stands for friendship , for platonic love . They are also a popular gift to show that one is willing to forgive . Yellow roses are completely unsuitable for romantic encounters, possibly for the first date. For friends , on the other hand, they are ideal.

You have to consider that a single rose says something different than a whole bouquet. Individual roses can represent a decrease in passion and unfaithfulness towards a partner. They also express jealousy and doubt . If you put a single yellow rose in a red rose bouquet, this becomes particularly clear.

bouquet of yellow roses can be a request for forgiveness and reconciliation , but it can also express gratitude and joy . A bouquet of yellow roses is especially ideal for hosts, as this is a perfect way to say thank you .

So it is not always easy to understand exactly what it means. The colors shouldn’t be given too much importance, because not everyone who gives away yellow roses knows the symbolism, even if that would be advantageous.

Yellow varieties of roses

Scented roses

When roses not only look good, but also exude a bewitching scent, then that’s the icing on the cake. There aren’t too many yellow scented roses, but enough.

  • ‘Friesia’ – bright golden yellow, half-double, medium-sized flowers, floribunda rose, strong, very lovely fragrance, half-double flowers, medium leaf health, upright, bushy growth, frequent flowering
  • ‘Peer Gynt’ – dark yellow, very double, very large flowers (10 to 14 cm) with a delicate reddish edge on the outer petals, hybrid tea, strong fragrance, often blooming, medium frost hardiness and health
  • ‘Postillion’ – bright yellow, double, large flowers (10 cm), mostly in umbels, shrub rose, ADR rating, rich fragrance, frequently blooming, abundant flowering, good leaf health and winter hardiness
  • ‘Speelwark’ – peach-yellow, very double, large flowers (12 cm), tinged with reddish, hybrid tea, very fragrant, often blooming, quite good winter hardiness, endangered by starling
  • ‘Zitronenjette’ – lemon yellow, double flowers, hybrid tea, tinged with reddish, lovely lemon scent, often blooming, early blooming
  • ‘Adolf Horstmann’ – bright golden yellow, large, double flowers, amber-colored below, hybrid tea, strong fragrance, often blooming, endangered by fungi, not absolutely hardy
  • ‘Golden Celebration’ – wonderfully large, bright golden yellow flower pods, intense tea rose fragrance, very healthy variety
  • ‘Charlotte’ – warm yellow, double-filled, medium-sized flowers, significantly lighter on the outside than on the inside, English rose, strong scent of tea roses, blooming frequently, very hardy, good health
  • ‘Graham Thomas’ – rich, bright yellow, double-double flowers, quite a unique color, English rose, strong fruity tea rose scent, good leaf health, very hardy

Yellow bed and shrub roses (also small shrub roses)

  • ‘Stuttgardia’ – bright yellow, half-double, quite large flowers, floribunda rose, hardly any fragrance, good winter hardiness, often blooming, good leaf health, good self-cleaning, also as a high stem
  • ‘Sunny Rose’ – delicate yellow, semi-double, small flowers, small shrub rose, ADR rating, max. 30 cm high, also for balcony boxes and tubs, blooms frequently, no fragrance, risk of mildew
  • ‘Lampion’ reddish buds that open into bright yellow flowers with red flames on the outside, floribunda rose
  • ‘Timeless’ – yellow-orange bowl-shaped, nostalgic flowers, floribunda rose
  • ‘Gelber Engel’ – light yellow, slightly double, medium-sized flowers with golden yellow stamens, flowers in umbels, floribunda rose, hardly any fragrance, abundant flowering, good winter hardiness, risk of mildew,
  • ‘Lichtkönigin Lucia’ – strong lemon-yellow, well-filled, large flowers with red stamens, shrub rose, frequently blooming, fragrant, strikingly rich floral flora, for hedges, good winter hardiness and leaf health

Yellow climbing roses and ramblers

  • Summer gold – climbing rose with citrus scent, up to 150 cm, can also be cultivated in large pots
  • ‘Golden Gate’ – golden yellow, very large, double flowers, changing to pure yellow, climbing rose, ADR rating, high vigor and healthy leaves, scent of lemon, often blooming
  • ‘Highfield’ – light yellow, loosely double, quite large flowers (10 cm) with dark yellow stamens, flowers in umbels, sweet scent, good leaf health, hardy, up to 3.5 m high
  • ‘Malvern Hills’ – yellow, double, small flowers, fade, then darker inside than outside, rambler rose, light fragrance, frequently blooming, up to 3 m, fast growing, does not need a scaffold, healthy
  • ‘Moonlight’ – sunny yellow, with copper-colored leaf veins, loosely double, medium-sized flower, lightening as it fades, almost thornless, weak fragrance, good health and winter hardiness
  • ‘Golden Olymp’ – rich yellow, somewhat double, quite large flowers (10 cm), with copper-colored flames, ruffled petals, weak scent, good weatherproof, only 2 m high, good health

Yellow hybrid tea roses

  • ‘Gloria Dei’ – initially golden yellow flowers with a red border, lightening over time, large flowers (12 to 14 cm), often blooming, light fragrance, good health, hardy, tea hybrid
  • ‘Elina’ – delicate creamy yellow, double, elegant, large flowers (11 to 13 cm), opens to creamy white, ADR-predicate, often blooming, light fragrance, good winter hardiness and leaf health
  • ‘Sunny Sky’ – honey-yellow, very double and large flowers (10 cm), delicate fragrance, frequently blooming, vigorous growth, good leaf health, very good winter hardiness, also as a standard stem
  • ‘Copper Queen’ – strong copper-yellow, very double, non-fading, large flowers (11 cm), often blooming, very light fragrance, rainproof, good winter hardiness, good leaf health
  • – ‘Winter Sun’ – light yellow, double, medium-sized flowers, often blooming, very light fragrance, sufficient winter hardiness, good leaf health

Rose companion plants for yellow roses

Roses often work on their own, especially when planted in groups. However, corresponding accompanying plants can still enhance such a group of roses. It depends on your own taste whether you work tone on tone or prefer to work with contrasting colors. It should be noted that a selection is made for the entire year or at least for a longer period of time. Personally, I think grasses go well with roses.

Ton in Ton

  • Spring – daffodils, tulips, winter flowers, crocuses, cowslips (actually the color does not matter, as there are no rose blossoms yet, but a completely yellow bed also has something for itself)
  • Summer – black-eyed Susan, yellow lily and iris, evening primrose, sun hat, yellow girl’s eye, lady’s mantle, gypsophila in white, bluebells in white, feather grass (Stipa pulcherrima or Stipa pennata), white, variegated sage, white margarites, white or yellow clematis, whiter Lavender, white cosmeen, white foxglove
  • Autumn – sun hat, Feinstrahlastern white

Contrasting colors

  • Spring – see above
  • Summer – lavender, delphinium, shrubs, hyssop, sage, catnip, bluebells, blue or purple clematis, also herbaceous clematis, grasses, magnificent cranesbills, speedwell
  • Autumn – splendid cork’s beak, red lamp-cleaning grass, feather bristle grass, heron feather grass, fine ray lavender / blue,

Caring for roses

When it comes to care, the rose color does not play a role. Yellow roses are no different from others. Location and choice of variety are important. If you meet in blacks here, you have already got half the battle in, as the saying goes. Healthy, resilient foliage, good winter hardiness and a certain robustness are decisive. Resistant varieties are ideal.


The location is one of the deciding factors for a rose to stay healthy and grow vigorously. Not every rose is suitable for every location. You have to choose the ones with the right wishes, even if that may not be the dream variety.

  • Absolutely airy (for drying off moisture). The air must be able to circulate.
  • Sunny (most)
  • East or west locations are ideal
  • Not under trees (drops fall after rain)
  • Do not plant too densely

Plant substrate
The plant substrate is also important. It should be deep and humane. Too much moisture, but also too much drought, are unfavorable and lead to diseases and weakening of the plants.

  • Profound and humorous
  • Permeable to water, but also has to store water
  • Nutrient-rich
  • No waterlogging
  • pH between 6 and 7
  • No compacted soil
  • Improve sandy soils with rock flour
  • Loosen heavy soils with sand

Plant roses

Container roses are the easiest to plant and also year round. However, they are significantly more expensive than bare-root roses, which are only available in spring and autumn. There is also a much larger selection of bare-root roses.

Tip – do not plant roses back where a rose has been before, for at least 4 years. If you really want to use this space again, the floor has to be replaced over a large area, completely and very generously.

  • The best time to plant is in autumn, but not too late.
  • Alternatively, spring is also suitable, but it involves more watering.
  • Place bare-rooted roses in water for 24 hours, completely.
  • Then shorten the roots a little.
  • Shorten all shoots to 15 to 20 cm.
  • Dig a large hole and loosen the soil
  • Plant the bare-rooted rose so that the grafting point is 5 cm to a hand’s breadth below the surface of the earth.
  • Fill up plant-based with soil-compost mixture and press firmly
  • Silting up
  • The pouring edge is recommended
  • Also water container roses before planting
  • Plant and water just as deeply

Watering and fertilizing

Water and nutrients are crucial for the good and healthy growth of roses. They like neither too wet nor too dry soil. It is important not to water on the leaves, but directly below the plant neck, where it comes out of the earth.

  • Keep the soil slightly moist at all times
  • Let the top layer of soil dry well before watering.
  • Pour deeply – deep roots
  • Water particularly intensively until it grows
  • Mulch layer protects against drying out
  • Do not pour on leaves – risk of fungus
  • Fertilize in spring at the start of budding
  • – Second fertilization for the main bloom in summer
  • Do not add any more nitrogen from the end of July – the shoots ripen
  • Patentkali in autumn

To cut

Many plant lovers are really afraid of pruning roses, but it is not that complicated. The pruning is necessary to maintain the flowering potential and vitality. It is important to use sharp, clean scissors and cut on a frost-free, overcast day.

  • Only shorten roses very slightly in autumn
  • Remove any leaves with fungal spores
  • In spring, when the forsythia blooms, it is time to cut roses
  • Cut out dead and diseased wood
  • Thinning out crossing and rubbing shoots
  • Every 3 to 5 years, cut the oldest shoot as close to the base as possible. This prevents balding.
  • All other pruning measures depend on the growth group and the flowering rhythm.
  • Carefully cut abundantly, no inhibitions in the cutting measures. Only climbing roses need to be cut with care.

Tip – It is essential to remove all wild shoots, always directly at the point of emergence. If they remain, they will overgrow the grafted variety over time.

Hibernate roses

If you have been careful when choosing the variety, the roses are hardy. With a little protection they can get through the winter well. The finishing point in particular must be protected. This is not a problem with normal roses, with tall stems it is a little more difficult, because the grafting point is directly under the crown.

  • Pile roses in November, i.e. pile up soil around the grafting point, about 20 to 25 cm high.
  • Noble roses, bed roses and climbing roses should be provided with sun protection so that the wood is not damaged by frost and sun. In practice this is usually difficult.
  • In addition, sticks can be put on.
  • High trunks – pack the crown. Put sticks in the crown and wrap everything with a fleece or a jute sack or stick it in.
  • Particularly protect the tub roses, the root ball must not freeze through.

Roses can be propagated in different ways, by sowing seeds, by cuttings and by grafting. Refinement is feasible for advanced hobby gardeners, propagation of cuttings is quite easy, but not feasible or allowed for every rose.

Propagation of cuttings

  • Progeny offspring
  • Late June to early August
  • Shoot with 5 eyes
  • Cut horizontally under 5th eye
  • Put the cutting in the ground in a partially shaded place
  • Put the mason jar over it
  • Always keep the soil slightly moist
  • Ventilate now and then
  • Do not transplant for 3 years

Diseases and pests

Unfortunately there are numerous diseases that affect roses. This happens when the plants are weakened and that in turn is the result of incorrect location, incorrect care or a neighboring garden with numerous fungal diseases. There are also plenty of pests that attack the roses. Typical rose diseases can be avoided by choosing an appropriate variety.

  • Diseases – soot, rose rust, powdery mildew and downy mildew
  • Pests – pulp wasp, rose leafhopper, aphids

Frequently asked questions

How can roses be protected from disease?

There is no such thing as the ultimate remedy, but there are a number of preventive measures that can be taken for the health of the plants. Rock powder should be sprayed or dusted with stone powder as soon as it shoots. When the first leaves have bloomed, further sprayings are possible, always alternating with horsetail broth and Neudo-Vital. It also helps to cut off affected areas before diseases can spread. Do not dispose of anything that is cut off on the compost, as the fungi will spread again when the soil comes back into the bed.

Which rose fertilizer is the best?

It always depends on who you ask. Everyone has their own experiences. In general, I would recommend organic rose fertilizers, because there is hardly any risk of overdosing. They have a lasting effect, strengthen the plants and ensure numerous flowers. If there are deficiencies, mineral fertilizers are better because they work faster. Here, however, you have to work exactly according to the packing instructions. Over-fertilization damages the roses, usually for a long time. Do not use mineral fertilizers for young plants. If it has to go quickly, use horn meal instead of horn shavings.

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