It is the perfect perennial for hobby gardeners whose time capacity is limited, because the lush sea lavender thrives anew every year without extensive care. In addition, the undemanding Limonium latifolium doesn’t mind being placed in the meager corners of the garden, as long as it’s not too dark there or it gets ‘wet feet’ there. Among the more than 300 species, not a single specimen can be found that even remotely resembles the well-known lilac, apart from the lilac-colored flower that some hybrids present. Nevertheless, the sea lavender also enchants in white, golden yellow, pink and violet.
Table of Contents
location and substrate
The sea lavender is particularly common on the coasts of the Mediterranean thanks to its salt-resistant properties. But globetrotters also meet him in the steppes of Siberia, in the mountains of the Hindu Kush or in the deserts of Afghanistan. From this it can be concluded which site conditions the sea lavender prefers:
- Sunny to full sun.
- Partial shade with as many hours of sunshine as possible.
- Calcareous, dry, sandy soil.
- Ideally profound and, above all, permeable.
- Use a mix of potting soil, sand and algae lime in the bucket.
As a result, the Limonium latifolium feels particularly at home in rock gardens, in gravel beds or on the roof garden. There is also nothing wrong with cultivating it in a bucket and using it to decorate sun-drenched, windy corners of the house, on the balcony or terrace where other flowering plants would quickly give up.
Incidentally, the sea lavender enjoys great popularity not only thanks to its veil-like, up to 60 cm long flower spikes and a persistent flowering period. Hobby hobbyists like to use sea lavender to give tasty dried bouquets the finishing touch.
pour
Once the sea lavender has pushed its taproots into the ground or spread out the rhizomes at the chosen location – depending on the species – it no longer needs watering. In the local regions, the natural rainfall is more than enough for him to maintain a healthy water balance.
- Water regularly only during the growth phase.
- Never water in direct sunlight.
- Give the irrigation water directly to the roots and not overhead.
- Adult sea lavender is content with Mother Nature’s water.
- Sea lavender in the tub receives irrigation water after a thumb test.
If there is no rain for several weeks during an unusually dry and hot summer, the sea lavender signals a need for watering by letting its foliage droop.
Fertilize
With a high nutrient requirement, the sea lavender does not bother the garden lover.
- Work a dose of slow-release fertilizer into the soil in spring.
- 20 to 30 g of blue grain per square meter are sufficient.
- Apply diluted liquid fertilizer in the planter every 4 weeks.
- Stop fertilizing from September to increase winter hardiness.
Organic fertilizers such as garden compost, horn shavings or horn meal are also welcome nutrients for Limonium latifolium. If the garden lover is out between the beds anyway with a wheelbarrow full of compost, the sea lavender also gets a portion.
hibernate
The robust sea lavender is hardy down to -28° Celsius. In order for it to bloom again in its old beauty next year, it should be cut back close to the ground in autumn. If the trimmed nest is then additionally covered with a thick layer of leaves, straw or twigs, even the coldest winter will not be able to harm it. In particular, the hobby gardener protects his hardy garden dwellers from too much moisture when snow and frost melt in spring.
If the sea lavender is in a bucket, it is advisable to wrap it with bubble wrap, garden fleece or jute ribbons during the winter so that the root ball does not freeze through.
multiply
Undoubtedly, the majority of amateur gardeners would like to grow several specimens of such an undemanding and austere flowering perennial. It’s no wonder that propagation is completely uncomplicated, with a variety of methods to choose from.
sowing
- Remove the dark seeds from the dried flowers in midsummer.
- As a rule, each fruit of the sea lavender contains only one seed.
- Store in a dry, airtight container over the winter.
- In March/April fill a seed tray indoors with growing substrate.
- Soak the seeds in water for a few hours.
- Then spread on the substrate and cover thinly with soil.
At an average germination temperature of 18° Celsius, the cotyledons appear after 1 to 2 weeks. During this time the substrate is kept slightly moist by wetting it with water from a spray bottle. Only when the first real leaves of the sea lavender appear are the strongest seedlings pricked out and transplanted into individual pots. These also contain a low-nutrient peat-sand mixture, so that the little plants are eager to search for food and root well in the pot.
direct sowing
- In April, clean the bed of weeds, roots and stones.
- Rake well and level with the rake.
- Make furrows 2 to 3 cm deep with a spade.
- In it, distribute the seeds individually at a sufficient distance.
If you buy the sea lavender as a seed tape, you don’t have to worry about the correct distance between the seeds. A cheerful, colorful jumble of sea lavender is created when the seeds are simply thrown out in the intended bed. Finally, do not forget to use the rake to gently work the seeds into the soil while carefully watering the seeds with a water spray. From a growth height of 5 cm to 10 cm, the weaker seedlings are sorted out to make room for the specimens, which should beautify the garden from now on.
root cuttings
- Dig up a healthy mother plant in early spring.
- Suitable root cuttings are pencil thick, undamaged and healthy.
- Cut the selected specimens close to the root crown with garden shears.
- Cut off no more than a third of the existing roots.
After the mother plant is back in the ground, the root cuttings are divided into approx. 10 cm long pieces. The part that pointed towards the mother plant is cut straight. The root tip is marked by an oblique cut. This is important because polarity determines the success of this propagation method. The coveted adventitious roots will only develop on the obliquely cut root tips. And so it goes on:
- Fill 9-pots with growing substrate.
- Plant the root cuttings vertically with the straight cut upwards.
- The tops of the cuttings are flush with the surface.
- Now a layer of sand is sprinkled over it.
At an average temperature between 13° and 17° Celsius, the rooting is now awaited without the root cuttings receiving water. The first dose of irrigation water is only given when young sprouts appear and a new root system develops. On this occasion, the root cuttings are isolated or planted straight away in their new location.
plants in the bed
Whether in ready-prepared form or grown by hand, the time has come for the young plants to go into the ground from mid-May.
- The bed soil is loose, finely crumbly and free of weeds.
- The root ball is placed in a bucket of water for about 30 minutes.
- In the meantime, dig a sufficiently large planting hole.
- To prevent waterlogging, create a drainage system made of gravel.
- Enrich the excavation with sand, compost and horn meal.
- Dig in the sea lavender and water generously.
In the year of planting, the sea lavender is still regularly supplied with water, provided that Mother Nature does not do this work herself during a rainy summer.
plants in the bucket
The sea lavender also cuts a fine figure in the tub and decorates even corners and places on the balcony with floral opulence where other plants would die of sunburn. In this case, clay pots are ideal as planters, because the porous material ensures the airy ambience that the Limonium latifolium loves so much.
- Only use a bucket that has an opening in the bottom.
- Lay out drainage from gravel, perlite or potsherds over it.
- Fill in a first layer of the described substrate.
- Place the plant in the middle and bury it without over-compacting the soil.
Beautiful species and varieties
In addition to the common sea lavender (Limonium vulgare), which is most commonly planted in Germany, this genus from the leadwort family has hundreds of other species to offer, some of the most attractive variants of which are presented:
Golden sea lavender (Limonium aureum)
- Growth height 10 cm to 40 cm
- Yellow or orange colored crown
- Flowers bordered with yellow, orange or white
Daisy-leaved Sea Lavender (Limonium bellidifolium)
- Growth height up to a maximum of 40 cm
- Bluish-purple crown
- Long flowering period from June to September
North African Sea Lavender (Limonium bonduellei)
- Growth height 10 cm to 30 cm
- Blue flowers with a yellow calyx border
- Flowering time from July to October
Bluish Sea Lavender (Limonium caesium)
- Growth height up to 60 cm
- Blue-violet flower spikes
- Flowering period from May to August
Shrubby Sea Lavender (Limonium fruticans)
- rare succulent species
- Growth height 20 cm to 50 cm
- Blue-violet calyx with white flowers
- Flowering time from February to April
Even this brief overview of some attractive species indicates the extensive spectrum of floral beauty that sea lavender has to offer.
diseases and pests
As frugal as it is in care, the sea lavender is resistant to diseases and pests. It can actually only suffer the greatest damage from human hands, by disregarding the site conditions or by giving it too much irrigation water. As a result, root rot develops, a fungal disease (Phytophthora) in which the pathogens only lie in wait for the naturally strong sea lavender to be weakened. The root area is so damaged that a plant that should live 10 to 20 years dies within days or weeks. There is no rescue.
Conclusion
There really is an abundance of flowering perennials for the home garden. Nevertheless, the sea lavender from the leadwort family should be given a regular place, which it will enrich over the next 10 to 20 years with densely covered panicles of flowers in a wide variety of shades. Where other garden plants have long since given up, the sea lavender is in full flower form, in the bed as well as in the tub. As if that weren’t enough, it also provides enchanting material for breathtaking, fragrant dried bouquets.
